UK Arachnid build

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Wobbly

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Hello. I've been working on an Arachnid build from Spiderkarts for the last few months, and I only recently discovered this Forum. I thought I'd post up a few pics of the build so far, as I'm sure I will have lots of questions for you in the coming months.

The project is going quite well so far, and I am pleased with the progress. As I'm in the UK, I have had quite a few problems in sorting some of the more specialist parts, and a lot of the items listed in the plans are only available from the US. However, with lots of time racked up in Google, I think I have found all the bits I need.

The first part sourced was the motor. It's a clone of the Honda GX390 with a manual pull start. I did consider buying an engine with an electric start, but as this is my first project, I wanted to keep things simple. The engine is mated to a Honda 2:1 reduction wet gearbox, as I couldn't source a torque converter for less than £300 in the UK. This was the first major problem I encountered as the engine has a 1" diameter driveshaft and the gearbox, a 25mm input. I was able to get the input machined to accept the driveshaft, and the 2 fit together nicely. I won't know for sure if it will work until I can get the engine mounted and put some load onto it. Fingers crossed.



With the engine sorted, I started on the chassis. To make things a little harder for myself, I had to learn to MIG weld from scratch. The main chassis went together quite quickly, but I soon realised that it was going to be too short for me. Luckily at this stage it was only a small amount of extra work to stretch the frame by 5". The steering rack I have sourced is also wider than the one specified in the plans, and as a result I had to make the front suspension frame 2" wider. I can compensate for the extra width by reducing each wishbone by 1". You can see how wide the steering rack is in this pic, the seat is not fixed down yet.





Some more progress on the front end.



I had to finalise the front hubs before I could weld up the front end, as the height of the hubs dictates the height of the frame. I sourced some hubs that were designed for a buggy with no front supension, so I had to make my own king pin assembleys. I had to reduce the length of the front hubs to fit inside the wheel.



Then I had to design my own kingpin assemblies.



The plans use rose joints top and bottom for the articulation, but I decided against this as I couldn't find any with enough movement. In the end I used some male and female clevis ends, and by a lucky coincidence, they are a perfect size to fit inside the 25mm box section the makes up the wishbones.





In this pic, the threaded end I am holding will interface with the end of the wishbone.



Thats all for now, next job is too make the wishbones and mount them to the front suspension block. I'll keep you posted.
 

sideways

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You wont be able to use a centrifugal clutch or torque converter with that reduction gear box, they both rely on revs to do what they do.

Nice project. :thumbsup:

Hayden
 

fowler

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welcome to the site
i like the clevis end suspension it looks like u have more potencial travel than the other arachnid builds on the site
 

Wobbly

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You wont be able to use a centrifugal clutch or torque converter with that reduction gear box, they both rely on revs to do what they do.

Hayden

The reduction gearbox has a centrifical clutch built in, so thats not a problem. I used this gearbox instead of a torque converter as they are way too expensive over here.
 

Silvergrizz

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Wobbly, glad to see your thread started, nice work so far. Some very nice ideas put forth here to solve your parts problems. will be watching closely from here on in. Welcome to the fun. :cheers2:
 

Doc Sprocket

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Built-in clutch? That's great! I had not idea they did... Well, that also nicely allows you to use a smaller rear sprocket for better clearance. Good find. Kart's looking lovely, too!
 

newrider3

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Built-in clutch? That's great! I had not idea they did... Well, that also nicely allows you to use a smaller rear sprocket for better clearance. Good find. Kart's looking lovely, too!

The clutch unit is the same as used on concession karts at mini-golf type places; they're virtually bombproof as well.
 

theo

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That rack you are using is going to give you big problems, it's much to long. Regarding your spindles, you can't have loose bolts, they are ok for a short term then you have ware, then oval holes, this goes for the clevis set up and the king pin bolt. You can fix the king pin area by installing bushings.
 

Wobbly

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I thought I might get away with the bolts as the wear issue did cross my mind. I can install bushings at a later date if it causes problems. Could you explain why the steering rack is unsuitable?
 

theo

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A long rack means short tie rods and then the arc of the a arms is different the the arc of the tie rods,
 

Wobbly

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Got you, thanks. I may be able to shorten it, I'll go and have a closer look.
 

Bill CNC

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Wobbly,

Read my build thread, "Theo" and "The Machine" explained all about this very well in my thread.

Your build is looking GREAT!
 

Wobbly

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Thanks Bill. This build is fighting me every step of the way, and I haven't even started on the rear end yet. Deep breath and carry on.
 

Bill CNC

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Thanks Bill. This build is fighting me every step of the way, and I haven't even started on the rear end yet. Deep breath and carry on.

Welcome to the Arachnid, ... Doh! :devil2:

Oh, ... the A-arms, ... they are a real joy to build and to keep straight while you weld them, ... NOT!
 

Silvergrizz

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Thanks Bill. This build is fighting me every step of the way, and I haven't even started on the rear end yet. Deep breath and carry on.

Hi Wobbly, actually the rear end should be simple if you stick to the plan design. I would think you can source the live axle assembly over there without much hassle. I cut all the metal yesterday for the rear end, did not get it welded up today. One area that will let you know about is the crossbracing for mounting the engine support on. That may need to be changed. I am using a GX390 clone as well, so once I get it all together will post pictures. :thumbsup:
 

Wobbly

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Hi Wobbly, actually the rear end should be simple if you stick to the plan design. I would think you can source the live axle assembly over there without much hassle. I cut all the metal yesterday for the rear end, did not get it welded up today. One area that will let you know about is the crossbracing for mounting the engine support on. That may need to be changed. I am using a GX390 clone as well, so once I get it all together will post pictures. :thumbsup:


Hi Silvergrizz. I'm a little concerned over the rear sub frame, as I think it will be quite tight with a GX390 on it. Plus like you say, it will need beefing up a little to support that particular engine. I was thinking about building a frame up and over the engine to strengthen the whole assembley. I'm sticking with a solid 30mm axle with a cable operated caliper and I have some nice beefy wheels for the rear too. I'll be interested to see how you get on as I think you'll be finished before me. I'm going to carry on with the front end for now and worry about the back later, scratching my head at the minute over the steering rack I've bought.
 

Silvergrizz

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Hi Silvergrizz. I'm a little concerned over the rear sub frame, as I think it will be quite tight with a GX390 on it. Plus like you say, it will need beefing up a little to support that particular engine. I was thinking about building a frame up and over the engine to strengthen the whole assembley. I'm sticking with a solid 30mm axle with a cable operated caliper and I have some nice beefy wheels for the rear too. I'll be interested to see how you get on as I think you'll be finished before me. I'm going to carry on with the front end for now and worry about the back later, scratching my head at the minute over the steering rack I've bought.

Wobbly, look at the second picture down on page 6 of Bill's build. The goal is to have the A-Arms parallel, which can be accomplished with spacers, but more importantly,from what I understand, the tie rods need to be parallel with the A-Arms AND equal length so the whole system travels in a consistent arc to avoid "bumpsteer" That picture shows it clearly. If you can, I would try to get the rack unit shortened to 8" eye to eye on the heim joints. If not, trade for one that is. You want to be able to maintain control and have it steer easily. There is a short video Bill did as well showing the suspension in motion. Helps get your brain around the concept. The more I read, the worse my headache got, till the boy's solved the problem.:rolleyes3:

Will update my thread with pictures once I have the rear suspension welded. Will try a mock-up today
 

Wobbly

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Thanks Silver, I understand the problem with the rack, now I have to work out a solution. I don't really want to start chopping up the rack in case I have to return it, and I know from many hours searching that a rack like yours and Bills can't be found in the UK. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
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