Trying to use dirt bike wheels on a live axle

danjpiscina · Mar 19, 2026

Hi all! I’m new to the forum, as well as new to building go karts. I recently started a project with my son and we set out to build a 1920s Briggs & Stratton buckboard Flyer. It’s basically a go kart. We’re sort of following Winky’s Workshop’s build on YouTube. For reference:

Anyway unlike his build, I’m using mostly stock parts and got this cheap 32” live axle kit on eBay https://ebay.us/m/TFtqfZ and it includes axle hubs with 4 bolts. I was thinking of getting two sets of pit bike wheels https://ebay.us/m/hAPrrD and with minimal modding, make them work with that live axle and the included hub mounts. I haven’t even started to think about how I’ll get the front wheels to work.

Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated!

TBH I don’t even know if the spacing of the 4 bolts on the axle hubs is the same as the spacing on the rear pit bike wheel (I think those are designed to take a rear sprocket). But just to be clear; I would intend to mount the axle hub to the wheel that way.

Master Hack · Mar 19, 2026

I'll offer a few thoughts. What yer proposing can be done, but maybe there a better way.
The steering is going to be a nightmare with A live axle. Live axles like to go straight. Unless yer packin enough power to throttle steer, yercgoing to fight it to turn.

Wooden frames are very poor choices. wood will not hold up very well.
Consider a steel frame with a wood deck.

Cool idea however. Our panel of expert engineers, designers, mechanice and bums will be on board shortly. Buckle up!

Hellion · Mar 19, 2026

I’m aware of the B&S Flyer; an early attempt at an affordable kart-like car if memory serves.

Sounds like a lot of customization and “making it work“ is in order. It’ll be fine.

I think the low-friction, round profile, skinny bike tires in conjunction with their typically tiny contact patches, a live axle would work fine and not be such a bear to operate. Lots easier to skid it around on skinny tires if you just have to have a live axle.

The closest and perhaps better known counterpart to what you’re building is a Cycle Kart — a homebuilt replica of 1910s to early 1930s (not entirely sure) open-wheel race cars. I’d look there for inpiration and assistance.

Sparkwizard · Mar 20, 2026

You could get two rear wheels with sprockets on them, mount them on stub axles with the bearings. Mount a solid axle, or a differential axle on pillow block bearings and add chain to each wheel.

Master Hack · Mar 20, 2026

Hellion said:
I think the low-friction, round profile, skinny bike tires in conjunction with their typically tiny contact patches, a live axle would work fine and not be such a bear to operate. Lots easier to skid it around on skinny tires if you just have to have a live axle.

AS I recall from my dirt bike days, dem tires are kinda sticky....

Edwin Spangler · Mar 20, 2026

Master Hack said:
Our panel of expert engineers, designers, mechanice and bums will be on board shortly. Buckle up!

I choose bum! I said it! Me first!

Oh thats not what were doing?

Daiyng eit

danjpiscina · Mar 20, 2026

Sparkwizard said:
You could get two rear wheels with sprockets on them, mount them on stub axles with the bearings. Mount a solid axle, or a differential axle on pillow block bearings and add chain to each wheel.

Thanks! I think that’s the plan. Just hoping the wheels and stub axles fit with one another.

danjpiscina · Mar 20, 2026

Master Hack said:
AS I recall from my dirt bike days, dem tires are kinda sticky....

What do you mean by sticky?

danjpiscina · Mar 20, 2026

Hellion said:
I’m aware of the B&S Flyer; an early attempt at an affordable kart-like car if memory serves.

Sounds like a lot of customization and “making it work“ is in order. It’ll be fine.

I think the low-friction, round profile, skinny bike tires in conjunction with their typically tiny contact patches, a live axle would work fine and not be such a bear to operate. Lots easier to skid it around on skinny tires if you just have to have a live axle.

The closest and perhaps better known counterpart to what you’re building is a Cycle Kart — a homebuilt replica of 1910s to early 1930s (not entirely sure) open-wheel race cars. I’d look there for inpiration and assistance.

I do love the cycle cart community. I will be posting on their North America Facebook page as well. Thanks!

danjpiscina · Mar 20, 2026

Master Hack said:
I'll offer a few thoughts. What yer proposing can be done, but maybe there a better way.
The steering is going to be a nightmare with A live axle. Live axles like to go straight. Unless yer packin enough power to throttle steer, yercgoing to fight it to turn.

Wooden frames are very poor choices. wood will not hold up very well.
Consider a steel frame with a wood deck.

Cool idea however. Our panel of expert engineers, designers, mechanice and bums will be on board shortly. Buckle up!

I’m making it out of solid maple and reinforcing the whole rear or it with square tubing, as well as the front axle. This is especially necessary for where the motor will be mounted. Considering split axle too. Thanks!

TNThomas · Mar 20, 2026

danjpiscina said:
Thanks! I think that’s the plan. Just hoping the wheels and stub axles fit with one another.

Whats the bolt spacing on the square gold/zinc colored hubs?

If you are looking for a differential, let me know, I have one leftover from my buggy build that I didn't use, and I would be willing to sell it. I made a cover that just needs a zirc fitting and hand fitting. It's from a Mitata. 3" from bolt to bolt on the outside. You can mount pillow blocks on it, and a sprocket as well.

I second the steel frame too, even if you just put wood panels on top.

Sparkwizard · Mar 20, 2026

https://www.northerntool.com/produc...|GOOG|STND|c|SITEWIDE|OOT|SportingGoods+Toys|{adgroup}||10028976405|109460916188&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=10028976405&gbraid=0AAAAADpPfbOemP7PNTsjlBDxgFqs_JNLG&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4PPNBhD8ARIsAMo-icx46fFV8Xddtol6dPum5fxPbO_ugHo2wr4KT1mK4A0YsTk8sKlqCvUaAvc5EALw_wcB

Functional Artist · Mar 20, 2026

IMO the 32" axle the OP has is
...a bit too narrow, for a (2) seat kart
...especially a kart that is already going to be kinda "top heavy" because of the tall wheels
&
Goin' narrower, would be worse :ack2:

What is the "plan" for brakes?

danjpiscina · Mar 20, 2026

Functional Artist said:
IMO the 32" axle the OP has is
...a bit too narrow, for a (2) seat kart
...especially a kart that is already going to be kinda "top heavy" because of the tall wheels
&
Goin' narrower, would be worse

What is the "plan" for brakes?

That’s a good point. I did have a little concern over the top heavy nature of this design! I’ll let you know how it works out (if at all!). The “plan” for the brakes is somehow using the disk brake setup that was included in the kit. I plan to make a mounting bracket for the caliper and welding it to the rear frame I will put together. I’ll add pictures as I build it. Then I was hoping to run a line to the front and again mount a bracket for the gas/brake pedals.

Master Hack · Mar 20, 2026

danjpiscina said:
What do you mean by sticky?

Good traction, no so easy to break loose, slip or spin.
I'm prodadly mistaken as my dirt bike experience was a long time ago.
The surface type makes a huge difference obviously, Where do you plan on using this?
The current batch of youngsters probably have a more accurate opinion.
The comment about wood frames has nothing to do with strength, but joints.
Wooden joinery is about impossible to keep tight. Flexing loosens up wood connections.
Maybe someone had a bulletproff method?

Grizzlymi · Mar 20, 2026

Years ago I built a flat bed bike trailer 4'x2' out of 1"x3/4" pine as the frame to keep it light. Towed it up to the local hardware store and grabbed about 160lb bags worth of top soil. Got home, no issues. Next trip I made I noticed sagging and wobble. It was a no go. Ended up building the frame out of 3/4" angle aluminum and used the 3/4" pine in the angled aluminum and it is tough as nails now!

Take everyone's advice and don't just use wood.

Grizzlymi · Mar 20, 2026

Example of my project. First pic is just 3/4" x 2" pine, second pic is 3/4" aluminum angle and bolt pine to it to keep it light but rigged.

danjpiscina · Mar 20, 2026

Grizzlymi said:
Example of my project. First pic is just 3/4" x 2" pine, second pic is 3/4" aluminum angle and bolt pine to it to keep it light but rigged.

Thanks! I will definitely be reinforcing the maple frame with square tubing or maybe even rectangular, depending.

Hellion · Mar 21, 2026

If the original design was all wood with minor (metal) reinforcement, I say go for it in keeping with the old world style.

How did they keep Conestoga, buckboard and covered wagons together in the Old West era? The “roads” then were rocky rutted trails and some rather smoothed out ruts and packed dirt on the prairies. I guess constant maintenance was a thing

and perhaps an awful thing at that…

Master Hack · Mar 21, 2026

Hellion said:
How did they keep Conestoga, buckboard and covered wagons together in the Old West era?

You could go to school and learn...

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