Trying to identify old go-kart

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impala3525

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Can the belt that was on here be brought locally or will a substitute work??

I measured the belt that came off and it's a little over 28". I was trying to just find a replacement belt like I had until I can find all the parts.
 
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Karttekk

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impala3525 said:
Can the belt that was on here be brought locally or will a substitute work??

I measured the belt that came off and it's a little over 28". I was trying to just find a replacement belt like I had until I can find all the parts.
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If you install a belt similar to what you had it will likely break again soon. A V belt isn't designed to work with moveable sheaves. Try a local motorcycle or ATV shop, see if they have a cogged belt close to or the same as what you have.
 
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A normal "V" belt doesn't work because it isn't wide enough at the top of the "V". It has to be .750 +/- .015. The "B" or 5L belt is 5/8" or a fraction bigger. The other problem with a regular "V" belt is it cannot turn the very tight radius of the Driver unit on the engine which is less than 1 1/4". That is why the belts are cog (teeth on the underside) is to turn this tight radius so you get instant grab at the lower rpm when it first engages. Once the belt wears down on the sides to less than .600 it is time to change the belt because than you have the other problem of the belt getting stuck in the driven pulley. Belts on a series 30 will wear quicker than a belt on a series 20 because they don't generate as much heat because they are moving up evenly on both sides of the sheaves. On a series 30 you are forcing the belt up on the flat side of the sheave. This is why the cover has so many holes in it is to let the heat out which is making the belt soft thus wearing it quicker. T/C 101 lesson for today. And yes, the belt are expensive because they are not bought in the quantity they were made back prior to the end of fun kart production.
 
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Karttekk

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Tractor Supply carries a good selection of V belts too. Take yours with you to match it up. Might get you on the road for a while anyway.
 
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Looked at the picture of the unit, Driver and Driven. Before you put ANY type of belt in there take the driver off the engine and clean up the sheaves until you have shiny metal again. Use some 180 grit sandpaper or emery paper and get the rust off. You can use some coarse steel wool also but shine them up. Rust will wear the belt quickly, it should be rust free. The larger unit , the driven, is a little harder to do because you don't want to take it apart but clean that one up also. Rust wears the belt. Don't put any kind of lube on the sheaves the belt will keep it clean as you drive but don't count on the belt to clean it when it is as rusty as your show in the picture.

Not a big fan of mixing series 20 and 30 belts but it is your money and Karttekk is correct ,it will work but it will wear a series 30 down quickly since it will cock the belt.
 
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BrownStainRacing

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JimD said:
Looked at the picture of the unit, Driver and Driven. Before you put ANY type of belt in there take the driver off the engine and clean up the sheaves until you have shiny metal again. Use some 180 grit sandpaper or emery paper and get the rust off. You can use some coarse steel wool also but shine them up. Rust will wear the belt quickly, it should be rust free. The larger unit , the driven, is a little harder to do because you don't want to take it apart but clean that one up also. Rust wears the belt. Don't put any kind of lube on the sheaves the belt will keep it clean as you drive but don't count on the belt to clean it when it is as rusty as your show in the picture.

Not a big fan of mixing series 20 and 30 belts but it is your money and Karttekk is correct ,it will work but it will wear a series 30 down quickly since it will cock the belt.
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BEST advice I seen so far.
 
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impala3525

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I think the guy I bought it from put that belt on it because the alignment of the driven and driver are off. Im pretty sure the correct 30 series belt is going to break too. Heres a better picture of the setup.

IMG-20230503-181525.jpg
 
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BrownStainRacing

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impala3525 said:
I think the guy I bought it from put that belt on it because the alignment of the driven and driver are off. Im pretty sure the correct 30 series belt is going to break too. Heres a better picture of the setup.

View attachment 137932
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Looks like a 20 series driver and driven to me.
Get that driven squared up and maybe shim the driver and/or move engine over, whatever it takes to get the belt straight, and it should work with a 20 series belt. after a good clean up of coarse.
 
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More pictures needed. Let me see what the front of the driven looks like so see how much shaft is sticking past the nut. You are also missing the bushing on the driver which is going to move the floating sheave back 5/8" of an inch. The driven need some serious work on it before it jumps the wear ramp and screws up the spring. Send me the driven and the driver and I will show you what a clean unit looks like. The only charge will be what ever it cost you to ship it to me, send me the like dollar amount to send it back. The address on the Max-Torque site will get it here. I will throw in the bushing because I am a nice guy.
 
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JimD said:
More pictures needed. Let me see what the front of the driven looks like so see how much shaft is sticking past the nut. You are also missing the bushing on the driver which is going to move the floating sheave back 5/8" of an inch. The driven need some serious work on it before it jumps the wear ramp and screws up the spring. Send me the driven and the driver and I will show you what a clean unit looks like. The only charge will be what ever it cost you to ship it to me, send me the like dollar amount to send it back. The address on the Max-Torque site will get it here. I will throw in the bushing because I am a nice guy.
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That is one help of an offer! I’d take him up on it!
 
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Karttekk

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Denny said:
There is no correct 30 series belt for your set up! It is a 20 series! Try turning around the driven, I’ll bet the belt lines up then!
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Denny, I don't think you can flip the driven on that kart the way Carter has it setup. That's why they run inboard.
 
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Karttekk

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JimD said:
More pictures needed. Let me see what the front of the driven looks like so see how much shaft is sticking past the nut. You are also missing the bushing on the driver which is going to move the floating sheave back 5/8" of an inch. The driven need some serious work on it before it jumps the wear ramp and screws up the spring. Send me the driven and the driver and I will show you what a clean unit looks like. The only charge will be what ever it cost you to ship it to me, send me the like dollar amount to send it back. The address on the Max-Torque site will get it here. I will throw in the bushing because I am a nice guy.
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My very first suggestion was to replace everything with factory or aftermarket 20 Series components. With those and proper alignment it should be fine.
 
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