Trying to find a 48v charger

[Panhead5496]

Got my Razor RSF650 up and running, but need a decent charger. I found several on Amazon that look nice, but most have a 3 prong charge plug. I'm planning to just plug directly into the battery plug and not mess any of the built in charge port. I can do any splicing/soldering that I need to, but want to make sure it's all compatible.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm using (4) 12v 10ah SLA batteries from MightyMax batteries wired together for 48v.

Thanks for the help guys.

Edit* here are the ones I found:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NMD6YD/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2A4JVS8WIICPK&psc=1 3 hole plug...lots of choices like this one on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZ7WWPQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1UQYBFF910O5I&psc=1 just 2 alligator plugs, so I can wire up a plug to plug directly into the +/- battery leads. Some reviews say it's for lead acid batteries only and some say they use it for SLA batteries...is that the same thing I guess? Not very clear.

 

[itsid]

SLA stand for "Sealed lead acid"
so it's technically a lead acid battey as well
[ side note: AGMs are as well.. ]

still, a lead acid charger with "quick/turbo charge switch" should be avoided.
since once you flip that switch the charging process is no longer current limited
(other than by the chargers capabilities that is),
wich causes the batteries to bubble out at some point,
not a big deal on standard lead acid cells,
and if kept an eye on, not even with SLAs really.
but SLAs cannnot just pop an inlet open if the bubbles come rushing
while you're not watching so you might run into a bloated cell when you come back checking.

I'd avoid the first.. that 3hole plug is technically sound for the 48V 2Amp, but it's still a 120/240V plug
and it nicely fits in your desktop computer, monitor, some printers etc...
And worse: if you install a matching receptacle on your bike,
you can buy a powercord for a dollar that directly connects your batteries to mains power.

That's asking for trouble IMHO.

'sid

 

[anickode]

You might also try searching for golf cart trickle chargers... most electric golf carts are 48 volt, and what would be considered a trickle charge for the 100+ amp hour batteries in a golf cart would be a reasonable charge rate for a 10ah battery.

 

[Functional Artist]

That charger is (~$45.00) almost twice as much as the one from Alfa Wheels (~$23.00)

IMO
1.) alligator clips are too easy to accidentally mix up (+ & -)
...especially if others "try" to connect the charger

2.) it's best to avoid using a charger with a C-13 style DC output plug (as Sid said)


I posted this in another thread:
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=40461&page=2

"Warning; do not use a c-14 receptacle as a dc input plug
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It has been brought to my attention that using (ANY) C-14 connector, as a DC input receptacle, to charge a battery pack is a catastrophe just "waiting to happen".

NOT because of what it doesn't have (an "actual" DC rating)
...but, because of what it is (it's an AC power cord receptacle)

The C-13 is usually used for connecting AC power cords to home appliances & the C-14 is the receptacle that's usually mounted to the appliance for connecting a power cord.

As such, if a C-14 receptacle is connected to a battery pack & used as a charge port, it presents a HUGE safety risk.

WHY?

What could/would happen if someone just connected an AC power cord DIRECTLY to the C-14 receptacle?
(skipping the battery charger)
...it could/would apply 110VAC DIRECTLY to the 48VDC battery pack (& KaBoom!)

Hopefully the fuse (if one was even used) would "pop" & save the day
...but, who knows?

So, I don't understand why there are so many companies even offering a battery charger with a C-13 DC output plug.
...it's an accident just waiting to happen (& maybe a lawsuit)

I do know (IMO) IT'S NOT A WELL THOUGHT OUT PLAN"


IMO
* First thing you do when you get a charger is check the polarity of the DC output plug
...to determine which post is positive (+) & which is negative (-)
...their NOT all wired the same

Then, you can connect the charge ports wires to their proper battery terminals

This page, of the Damien thread, has some info/shows how I connected the charge port:
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=40084&page=7

 

[itsid]

Oh misconception of trickle charging I guess
[it's not just low amperage, it's exactly the level of battery self discharge at rest]
Lead Acid batteries do that on their own, as long as the charger itself is not
shutting down below a certain current threshhold (which is needed to avoid overheating LiPos for example)
and a so called trickle charger just doesn't shut off (and ideally doesn't consume too much power in idle to allow for winter storage permanent conenction)

Anyways..
Golf cart chargers are a good idea indeed
But I guess the 3Amp charger above means a full charge in roughly 4hrs for your 10Ah batpack
(maybe a hair longer)
which sounds like a reasonably save charging rate to me

'sid

 

[snowball]

I use this for my 48V setup:

https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-GBCP...+cart+charger&qid=1562051091&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Lots of bad reviews but it's mostly people complaining about how it doesn't charge at 20A.

I have 4 SLAs charging at 3A, you don't want to charge lead acids at over 5A anyway.

Been using mine for 2 years without issue and it also comes with an extra ring-terminal + connector for your battery so you don't have to splice anything.

 

[JoelR]

That charger is (~$45.00) almost twice as much as the one from Alfa Wheels (~$23.00)
...
2.) it's best to avoid using a charger with a C-13 style DC output plug (as Sid said)
...
"Warning; do not use a c-14 receptacle as a dc input plug
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It has been brought to my attention that using (ANY) C-14 connector, as a DC input receptacle, to charge a battery pack is a catastrophe just "waiting to happen [/url]

I’m confused. The charger sold by Alfa Wheels has this type of plug and it’s the one you’ve been recommending. I could cut it off and go with something safer.

 

[Functional Artist]

Sorry, don't mean to be confusing.

The 48V SLA chargers, that came with my 48V 1,000W motor "kits", from Alfa Wheels, have the mini XLR DC output plugs. (I didn't notice that the one I linked had the C-13 DC output plug on it)
…& I can't seem to find a link, to these chargers (with the mini XLR connectors) that are sold separately
(just the ones, like I linked, with them stupid C-13 output plugs)


There are many different AC input plugs (the end that plugs into the wall outlet) for different voltages (120VAC or 240VAC) &/or for use in different countries
...& there are also many different DC input plugs (the end that plugs into the battery charge port)

For an AC input plug, we (here in the USA) would usually use a #9 or #10
…& as for a DC output plug, IMO anyone of them (see charts below) is better/safer to use than the #F (C-13)


* Starting this year, I am now using/switching ALL of my karts & chargers to:
...mini XLR connectors (like #D) for my 48V SLA's (lead)
...regular size XLR connectors (like #E) for my 45V lithium battery
…& (will be using) XT60 type connectors (like #G) for my karts with 60V SLA'S

** I have been "gutting" my C-14 receptacles & installing the mini XLR receptacles in the housings
...they fit right inside

*** Here is another 48V 3A SLA charger (with a mini XLR output plug) for ~$30.00 (I have this one too, works great)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-Volt-b...137373?hash=item33d59c875d:g:HqEAAOSwSlBYysyM

 

[Panhead5496]

All, sorry for my delayed answer! I read through the thread a few times on my phone, but was not logged in to reply to it.

Excellent info in here!! Much appreciated. I ended up getting one like the charger in the post above this. It seems to be working well!

Y'all are awesome with help for this!