jhayes
New member
I'm new here. Kids want a kart and I've got bicycle wheels and steel. I also have a trolling motor I'd like to use to power it, anybody done this?
Thanks
Jeremy
Thanks
Jeremy
trolling motor kart?
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souperman000
New member
I dont think bicycle wheels will be able to handle the side loads that a kart will put on them.
I dont know how you would impliment the trolling motor into a using go kart configuration either.
I dont know how you would impliment the trolling motor into a using go kart configuration either.
Doc Sprocket
*********
The trolling motor is an interesting idea. Comes with it's own controller! Don't know if yours is stepped or variable- I think most are stepped. I'm sure it could be adapted to the purpose, but the $50 question is: Would it have sufficient torque?
The general consensus regarding bicycle wheels is that they are not up to the task of kart duty. Perhaps if the kids are quite young, and speeds are very low, they might be okay.
Welcome to the forum!
The general consensus regarding bicycle wheels is that they are not up to the task of kart duty. Perhaps if the kids are quite young, and speeds are very low, they might be okay.
Welcome to the forum!
jhayes
New member
Motor is stepped, 5 forward and 5 reverse. Kids are 6 & 4 and the speed will be slow.
Jeremy
Jeremy
Doc Sprocket
*********
Then I'd say you're good to go. If those teeny little motors in a Power Wheels-type toy can push a kid along, then the trolling motor will be fine. It might be a bit tough to sort out the gearing, but it should be doable. I would suggest small (12" or less) bike wheels to simplify gear reduction and keep a low centre of gravity.
The downside to all of this is that due to size, weight, motor, and gearing constraints, your kids will probably only get a few years out of it before they outgrow it. So-
The moment this projects is complete, start planning another one!
The downside to all of this is that due to size, weight, motor, and gearing constraints, your kids will probably only get a few years out of it before they outgrow it. So-
The moment this projects is complete, start planning another one!
jhayes
New member
I think the tires I have are 10 or 12", and I guess mini kart would've been a better description.
I was thinking trolling motor just because I have it, cooling may be an issue, not sure if there's a fan in there or not.
Whats the downside to having to build another one?
I was thinking trolling motor just because I have it, cooling may be an issue, not sure if there's a fan in there or not.
Whats the downside to having to build another one?
jhayes
New member
What is standard frame material on a full size cart? I have welding, cutting, turning and milling in my garage.
This mini kart I may use 3/4 square 16ga steel tube because I have it, or I may use emt conduit.
Jeremy
This mini kart I may use 3/4 square 16ga steel tube because I have it, or I may use emt conduit.
Jeremy
Doc Sprocket
*********
EMT may be an option. If the chassis structure is engineered well enough, it oughta hold up fine, especially considering that this will be a small, light kart. EMT is affordable, widely available, and can be bent using an electrician's handheld EMT bender. I have used EMT for several projects including the bumper and nerf bars on my kids' kart.
There are two pitfalls to using EMT that you need to be aware of- It's galvanized, so-
*The zinc coating is horribly toxic when inhaled. Weld with forced ventilation. Even outside, you should have a fan blowing the fumes away from you as you weld.
*Paint adhesion- Most common paints do not like to stick to zinc. You will need a primer specifically designed for this.
There are two pitfalls to using EMT that you need to be aware of- It's galvanized, so-
*The zinc coating is horribly toxic when inhaled. Weld with forced ventilation. Even outside, you should have a fan blowing the fumes away from you as you weld.
*Paint adhesion- Most common paints do not like to stick to zinc. You will need a primer specifically designed for this.
jhayes
New member
I've got a box fan I use when I weld stuff like that. As far as paint I may just paint the joints, but I have many things running around in my head, so plan may change a bit. I may try to make it pedal power.
What size emt have you used?
Jeremy
What size emt have you used?
Jeremy
anderkart
Moderator
I like your Trolling motor Idea jhayes 
Shouldn't be too dificult to rig a throttle pedal to turn the speed controller. Kids would probably dig having reverse too. I was thinking the throttle pedal could have 2 strong return springs pulling both directions, always returning to the off position. The kids would push down for the forward speeds, then instal a pedal-hoop over the pedals toe-area so they could lift their right foot for reverse... You could even rig an adjustable limiting screw to adjust how far the pedal could be lifted. This way you could easily adjust how fast the kart would go in reverse for safety reasons.
You could probably disassemble the motor and drill vent holes in the housing, and also slide a small fan blade (with a DIY fan shroud) on the output shaft to help keep the motor much cooler...
Sometimes speed controllers can stick on, so installing a master power cut-off switch would be a good safety feature to add. Kinda like a kill switch used on gas powered karts, a heavy duty toggle switch (rated for 30-amp) within easy read of the driver would probably work fine.
Your Trolling motor probably has some type of circuit breaker built in somewhere in case the motor shorts out. But you could instal a (30-amp) in-line fuse at your + battery connection for extra protection. You could buy a heavy-duty ATO fuse holder and ATO 30-amp fuses at most any auto parts store. Heres what they look like, just make sure its a heavy-duty model with 10 or 12 gauge wiring:
Shouldn't be too dificult to rig a throttle pedal to turn the speed controller. Kids would probably dig having reverse too. I was thinking the throttle pedal could have 2 strong return springs pulling both directions, always returning to the off position. The kids would push down for the forward speeds, then instal a pedal-hoop over the pedals toe-area so they could lift their right foot for reverse... You could even rig an adjustable limiting screw to adjust how far the pedal could be lifted. This way you could easily adjust how fast the kart would go in reverse for safety reasons.
You could probably disassemble the motor and drill vent holes in the housing, and also slide a small fan blade (with a DIY fan shroud) on the output shaft to help keep the motor much cooler...
Sometimes speed controllers can stick on, so installing a master power cut-off switch would be a good safety feature to add. Kinda like a kill switch used on gas powered karts, a heavy duty toggle switch (rated for 30-amp) within easy read of the driver would probably work fine.
Your Trolling motor probably has some type of circuit breaker built in somewhere in case the motor shorts out. But you could instal a (30-amp) in-line fuse at your + battery connection for extra protection. You could buy a heavy-duty ATO fuse holder and ATO 30-amp fuses at most any auto parts store. Heres what they look like, just make sure its a heavy-duty model with 10 or 12 gauge wiring:
Doc Sprocket
*********
Yup- I like where this is going. FWIW- check the motor's specs regarding the fuse. My 30-30 Minn-Kota motor calls for a 60-amp breaker (or fuse).
In projects where I have used EMT, I've used 3/4"- primarily because someone gave me a 3/4" bender. This stuff is surprisingly strong- and for a little kids' kart I think it would do nicely as long as it's decently engineered.
In projects where I have used EMT, I've used 3/4"- primarily because someone gave me a 3/4" bender. This stuff is surprisingly strong- and for a little kids' kart I think it would do nicely as long as it's decently engineered.
B man
Tecumseh FTW!
Oh trust me. it will have PLENTY of torque. some of them are crazy strong. and they have good life with deep cycle marine batterys. I once had to troll my papaws big heavy aluminum bass boat for 2hrs. (ran out of gas) It did it at full speed no problem the whole way back.
anderkart
Moderator
Yes good idea, your right
A circuit beaker can be a very good option instead of fuses, I sometimes hesitate to use/recommend them in place of a fuse because I've seen the contacts melt/weld together in several circuit breakers where they offered no protection at all. So now any time I instal a circuit breaker, I conect its input power through a 6" length of (the appropriate gauge) fusible-link wire as a backup, just in case...
anderkart
Moderator
jhayes, what brand/model is your trolling motor?
Doc Sprocket
*********
Great idea!
jhayes
New member
Trolling motor is an old Minn Kota 35, 17lbs thrust, 4 speeds forward, 2 reverse. I don't know much about electrics, I was thinking of using heavy duty momentary foot switch, the type old tractors used for the starter. They could select a speed and use their foot to turn off and on. Unless there is a variable current switch I could use as a gas pedal, any help would be great.
I'm still up in the air on how to build the frame as far as what to build it from, it'll have to be light because of the power of the motor and I think my battery is about 50lbs, and the kids are around 45lbs each. The bike tires in the back kinda complicate things a bit, as I think both sides of the axel should be supported and only one wheel will be powered. I wish I had 2 identical donor bicycles, I'd just cut them in front cranks and weld one to each side of the frame.
Jeremy
I'm still up in the air on how to build the frame as far as what to build it from, it'll have to be light because of the power of the motor and I think my battery is about 50lbs, and the kids are around 45lbs each. The bike tires in the back kinda complicate things a bit, as I think both sides of the axel should be supported and only one wheel will be powered. I wish I had 2 identical donor bicycles, I'd just cut them in front cranks and weld one to each side of the frame.
Jeremy
jhayes
New member
I'll fuse the power and the battery is a group 27 marine deep cycle lead acid, an extra I carry on my fishing boat.
Jeremy
Jeremy
anderkart
Moderator
I'm pretty sure this link has the manual for your model: http://www.minnkota.com.au/images/stories/user_manuals/Endura/Endura 30.pdf
It say's:
As a general on the water estimate, your
12 volt motor will draw one ampere per hour for each
pound of thrust produced when the motor is running
on high. The actual ampere draw is subject to your
particular environmental conditions and operation
requirements.
Your motor could easily serge to 100+ amp draw when the kart is accelerating. Instead of adding any fuse or circuit breaker, I'd solder in a 4" length of 12-gauge fusible link wire, In-line at your + connection at the battery. The wire inside will blow/melt at around 150 amps of current flow/short. You can buy fusible link wire at some auto parts stores, or here's one for sale online: http://www.amazon.com/Pico-8124PT-Gauge-Fusible-Package/dp/B0002ZGBRE
Your emergency cut-off switch will need to be rated much higher than the 30-amp toggle switch I recommended earlier in this thread. If cost is no object, a switch like this would be the best choice: http://www.tecknowledgey.com/125-amp-spst-manual-disconnect-switch.html
But here are some lower priced options:
http://www.amazon.com/Moroso-74103-Battery-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000COO1P4
http://www.dxengineering.com/parts/sum-g1432
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-converters/55-9025.htm
(whatever you use will need to be within easy reach of the driver...)
Your manual also says to use 6-gauge cable for extending any wiring, that's very good advice. I'd also thoroughly solder all splices and connections, dont just use crimp connectors.
I like your "old tractor starter switch" Idea. Some brands of these are much higher quality than others.
This brand/model is very good: http://www.partdeal.com/switches/specialty/foot-operated-starter-switch.html
It say's:
As a general on the water estimate, your
12 volt motor will draw one ampere per hour for each
pound of thrust produced when the motor is running
on high. The actual ampere draw is subject to your
particular environmental conditions and operation
requirements.
Your motor could easily serge to 100+ amp draw when the kart is accelerating. Instead of adding any fuse or circuit breaker, I'd solder in a 4" length of 12-gauge fusible link wire, In-line at your + connection at the battery. The wire inside will blow/melt at around 150 amps of current flow/short. You can buy fusible link wire at some auto parts stores, or here's one for sale online: http://www.amazon.com/Pico-8124PT-Gauge-Fusible-Package/dp/B0002ZGBRE
Your emergency cut-off switch will need to be rated much higher than the 30-amp toggle switch I recommended earlier in this thread. If cost is no object, a switch like this would be the best choice: http://www.tecknowledgey.com/125-amp-spst-manual-disconnect-switch.html
But here are some lower priced options:
http://www.amazon.com/Moroso-74103-Battery-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000COO1P4
http://www.dxengineering.com/parts/sum-g1432
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-converters/55-9025.htm
(whatever you use will need to be within easy reach of the driver...)
Your manual also says to use 6-gauge cable for extending any wiring, that's very good advice. I'd also thoroughly solder all splices and connections, dont just use crimp connectors.
I like your "old tractor starter switch" Idea. Some brands of these are much higher quality than others.
This brand/model is very good: http://www.partdeal.com/switches/specialty/foot-operated-starter-switch.html
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