tranmisson cooler for honda clone.

[devino246]

@firemanjim its only 40 bucks for a tranmission cooler anf the egine i have is already taken apart to be built up but i think im going to hit around 14-15 hp now after i learn what upgrades i can do to get it there.

You need more than just a cooler. You need to install fittings in the crankcase (have fun drilling and tapping pot metal), run a line to a pump (how are you going to run the pump?), install an oil filter inline, and run a line back to the crankcase. Think north of $100.

 

[philip metzner]

i got a honda clone that has some mods as of right now, it will do around 55mphs and when i'm done with it, its going to do around 80-100 so im looking to cool it down as much as i can and a tranmission cooler will make a big diffence since the oil will be circulating though it and the wind from driving will be hiting it and cooling it down, i've seen people use them and had the oil drop down 2-6 degrees

I just dont know what to say about this except it really bugs me.

 

[firemanjim]

I'm trying to be as honest and helpful as i can. Can you weld aluminum? You are going to HAVE to have 2bosses welded up so you can drill and tap for oil fittings. (Think big coin if you dont weld) Next is the pump. How you gonna drive it? How big is it and how much? How heavy? Now,you spent big coin ,you got lines drilled and tapped,pump mounted and plumbed,cooler mounted and plumbed...... added MORE weight and resistance to your kart and negated about 20-30% of the torque and power you "made" and are still in the same spot as in the beginning.
Put 2 kart motors on that race kart you got ,gear it right, and run the crap out of it. You will certainly feel like you're hitting a 100.... AND BE CAREFUL THINK SAFETY AT HIGH SPEED......

 

[Monkeys1990]

ummm ok like a fuel pum you can drill a hole and thread in a fitting you dont need to weld at all

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Fuel pump. Low volume, high pressure. Hmmm. Also- electric? Now you have to add an alternator and battery. More weight. I very much doubt that a normal vacuum-driven diaphragm pump will be very happy about pushing oil. Too viscous.

Regarding drilling the ports- You have to select your locations very carefully, and don't forget you're working with cast aluminum (or worse LOL) that is VERY thin in places.

 

[itsid]

Waterpump from a watercooled kart maybe?
it's driven by the rotating axle (at least the ones I know)
I'm unsure if the pressure and volum would be sufficient, but I guess it's better suitable than a fuel pump

'sid

 

[firemanjim]

Waterpump from a watercooled kart maybe?
it's driven by the rotating axle (at least the ones I know)
I'm unsure if the pressure and volum would be sufficient, but I guess it's better suitable than a fuel pump

'sid

I was trying to talk him out of opening a can of worms he dont need.... There is simply no need for an oil cooler. These are AIR cooled motors.... I dont I have seen ANY race karts with an oil cooler system,and there MUST be a reason.... it's not needed. But if wants to re-invent the wheel,well I guess let him....
With all that being said, a small power steering pump can be driven off the rear axle via a belt n pulley. You can run rubber (oil compatible) lines to and from motor. To put fitting on motor , you WILL have to weld or braze some bosses . The cover is TOO thin to just drill n tap. Those fittings have a slight taper and you will need more than 2 threads to seal. If you weld/braze on a couple bosses, THEN you can drill and tap THROUGH those to get a proper seal. The outlet of the motor should be towards the bottom, if not on the bottom. The return line can be above crank center line..... you're gonna have to figure out how much more oil you will need to add.....

 

[fowler]

Or the oil can circulate from the drain plug back to the fill plug

May cause some airation though

 

[firemanjim]

Or the oil can circulate from the drain plug back to the fill plug

May cause some airation though

Actually, you have a good idea there Fowler. Almost all motors have 2 oil plug bosses. Some have both drilled and tapped,some only one. You COULD utilize these for your in and out. Hold on, someone correct me if I'm wrong please....
Now, a kart motor is ONLY designed to hold 1/2 to 1 quart of oil,typically. If you add an oil cooling system with a pump you also have to add oil. With that being said, when the pump starts to flow into the case, at some point, it is inevitable that there will be more than a quart of oil in there at once. Wont this affect the seals, make it leak,or something? Build up too much case pressure? You're adding a pump to push oil into your case, adding to the normal pressures?
Man, I'm telling you this just does NOT sound like something I would be wasting my time or money on. I mean, why do we not see this on the high $$ race karts with "regular" kart motors that have MAJOR corporate sponsors?

 

[itsid]

I mean, why do we not see this on the high $$ race karts with "regular" kart motors that have MAJOR corporate sponsors?

maybe because it's as helpful as dogpoo on the rear tires?

'sid

 

[firemanjim]

maybe because it's as helpful as dogpoo on the rear tires?

'sid

 

[jonboy]

You know I don't mean to be a downer but, I think you beating a dead horse. The investment would be negated by the HP robbed at the rear wheels by the extra drag it produced. If your talking about adding a pump and extra oil. You are basically making a dry sump engine in the end. Is the extra weight and drag really worth it???

 

[fowler]

That's close to a dry sump
That would be a slight improvement for the corners though

It's just a complicated splash lube
A dry sump is a pressureized system that allows the engine to work at odd angles
Ie airplanes and rock crawlers

 

[machinist@large]

If the OP is concerned about oil break down due to heat, just do what all the really high end performance car makers do, and switch over to Mobil 1 full synthetic. Most conventional oils start to degrade when run over 250*~270* F; Mobil 1 is good for ~400*+. Your crankshaft seals will start to melt before this lube will fail. No lines to leak, no parasitic power losses from driving a pump, no trying to weld who knows what mystery alloy they use on the other side of the globe,etc.

These engines hold what, 1.5 to 2 quarts of oil? I would think that a ~$25 to $30 oil change would be the first thing to try, but then again, people tell me I just don't understand the "Real World".

 

[mckutzy]

About .6L/.63qt of oil in a typical clone engine.