Trailmaster Cheetah 8 assembly

bcort

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Trailmaster Cheetah 8 arrived today, exactly 7 days after ordering (at 11 pm on the day of ordering, July 3rd). Pretty shocked they were that quick from Texas (to Ohio). Also appreciate the final leg shipping company called yesterday, and when I said this is to a residence and don't have a forklift or anything, they we're just like we'll make sure it has lift gate service. Too many of the websites you can order from want to charge extra for every little thing with shipping.

I had work today and didn't get to it till the afternoon. I would say I put about 3 hours into it, not rushing or trying too hard. Took a break for dinner, half had to hold the kids off it while assembling. I'm sure if someone was more motivated, they might finish assembly in 3 hours (or close to it).

Missed taking a picture of how it arrived, but it was your standard Chinese go kart box and metal crate to secure everything.

My general plan was to unload all the parts, get the roll cage done, shocks, and tires. Then I'll have CVT belt (I'm not sure if the one provided is an extra but I'm surprised they didn't put it on already), battery, change oil (apparently optional but heh), and whatever else.

The packaging contained an operator manual for both the go kart and everyone but no assembly instructions. I already had them on my phone (attached here) and had watched a couple of videos on people assembling the mid XRX. I figured it would be pretty close (and it is).

About an hour in, everything is removed from packaging and roll cage is assembled.

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Next up were the rear shocks. They come with one attached at the bottom and a metal bar on the other.
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Just to show my wife how strong I was, I installed them by lifting the back with one hand and slipping the bolt through the shock.

Twenty minutes later, they were installed and torqued.
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Next up were front shocks. In the assembly manual they'll say to do the front struts then shocks, but as you can see, it's still laying on the metal crate. I didn't have a plan to get out off of that yet.

Front shocks went the same as the rear, though I did have the missus slide the top bolts in while I lifted the front end after i attached the shocks on the bottom.

To get the kart off of the metal crate, or more appropriately put, get the metal crate away from the kart, I went with this:
1. The missus slide a slightly raised jack under the back end while I lifted it. Metal crate still in place but while back end off of it and Jack is sticking out from the back, so not in the way.
2. I lifted the entire front end while my wife pulled the pallet and metal crate bottom out the side.
3. Side then put a couple back stands under the front end.

Besides a little leaning (back is supported by a single point), it worked extremely well.

From there, I was able to get the rear tires on. This is where I ran into my only problem so far. They attach by a 24mm castle nut. Don't have that, didn't catch it on the video I watched where they say it. Didn't realize my tire iron doesn't have that size. Oh well, tires on, used a large adjustable wrench to tighten. Order a 24mm socket so I can torque em correctly.1000009663.jpg

Took the Jack down and the back end was done for today.

Did the front struts. There's a square nut thingy that fits into a square hole and then tighten and torque a castle nut and cotter pin.

Installed the front tires. And call it a day.
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Parts left: fenders, steering wheel, battery, belt, cotter pins and hub caps for the wheels, and some odds and ends
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Wife (5'6") sat in it and had tons of head and leg room. I (6'2") sat in it and would say I have 4"or so until my head would hit the roll cage. With the seat all the way forward, my older kid (48") is right on the cusp of driving it. The shorter one (40") might be another year or two, depending on what I can rig up for him.

Have to work tomorrow but should still be able to finish most of the other items. Socket comes on Sunday, so will finish wheels then.
 

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bcort

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One other thing to note, each bag had its purpose or part that it goes to on it. I was mostly expecting one bag with all the hardware in it and instead got separated bags based on where the nuts and bolts go. Ruined some fun but made the first last if assembly quite a bit easier.
 

panchothedog

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If you don't have any anti-seize handy, simple wheel bearing ( axle ) grease will do.
Put it on the axles for the front wheels as well. Like Denny says, in a year or two when you want to remove them it's the difference between sliding them off by hand, or getting out the hammer or wheel puller.
 

Hellion

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You sir are a gentleman and a scholar. What a treat because by the time they get to us (fully and well into the DIY phase) they're faded, rusty and always falling apart. Was there any customary shipping damage?

These guys are so right about anti-seize. Present Me is always thinking of Future Me or Future Owner. Moisture wicks into anything with gaps or threads and becomes a problem but I understand putting anti-seize on lug nuts or studs is now considered quite controversial? Guess they think the lug nuts will work themselves off and lead to wheel loss because they’re so slippery. Hope you have indoor storage for it.
 

bcort

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A little late on the update, but on Saturday (the next day), pretty much got the rest of it done.

Steering wheel bolted up.
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Fenders bolted. (Folks with big hands might find this a little bit of a pain. Notice it bolts just in front of the shock.)
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Battery attached (this send to be a different set up than the mid XRX. I think it's working well and avoids the band you have to pull over the battery. I did have the battery on a trickle charger for a day prior.)
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Checked the CVT belt to see if I needed to put the one the came with the parts or it was a spare. Turns out it was a spare
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Removed some plastic on the seats, rubber hub caps, etc. And we were ready to take it for a test drive (just so happens the kids were at a sorry over at their grand parents, so I had to get a full in. My wife was kind enough to go with me.)
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You can see the space she has. My legs are a little tighter but head room is plenty for me.

Took it for a couple laps around the yard with no issues, so called it a day.
 

bcort

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Preface: Anti seize is ordered and will arrive tomorrow. I didn't insert the cotter pins on the rear wheels so that will be easy. Will remove the cotter pins on the front and apply there.

Onto today and the first two problems. Kids came back home. Wanted to ride it with me. Reminder, they're 48"/60ish lbs and 40"/ 40 lbs. The taller one say in the passenger seat. Seat belts were loose but eh..

I felt the smaller one in the drive seat. (Again, we're just doing around the yard and road around the house.)

Have them a few laps around the area, probably ten minutes and then ran into problems starting. And when it did it would stall when try to switch between forward and reverse and/or applying throttle.

Long story short, and after screwing around with the shifter adjustment for a long time (like an hour plus), I think I burnt out the CVT belt. The wheels were engaging at idle whether it was in forward or reverse. The was a mid-point between the two where brother would engage and I could start the engine. But, as soon as I tried to put it to either, it would try to "jump" into gear and stall. I didn't lube anything with the CVT, and I think the belt got so hot it started to melt it leave debris along the sides of the two wheels.

After I realized that, removed the CVT gears(?)/wheels/clutch/whatever they are called. Cleaned with brake cleaner, and put the new belt on. Kart no longer sound the tires at idle whether in forward or reverse. Lesson learned about weight and hills.

Two questions to the group:

The CVT belt (and replacement) have 715 printed on them. I'm now on the hunt to buy some backup belts. What size do I get?
-some sites say the 673 is the Cheetah 8 replacement. Based on the parts manual it looks like the 725 is the replacement. Neither is the 715. Is there a preferred seller to buy from with longer lasting belts,

-looking through manuals and online videos, it looks like I should be lubricating the CVT. Is that the faces the belt touches? Is it the springs inside the clutch? What type of lubrication should I use? I have white lithium grease on hand. One video said dry graphite. What's the board think?
 

bcort

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Preface: Anti seize is ordered and will arrive tomorrow. I didn't insert the cotter pins on the rear wheels so that will be easy. Will remove the cotter pins on the front and apply there.

Onto today and the first two problems. Kids came back home. Wanted to ride it with me. Reminder, they're 48"/60ish lbs and 40"/ 40 lbs. The taller one say in the passenger seat. Seat belts were loose but eh..

I felt the smaller one in the drive seat. (Again, we're just doing around the yard and road around the house.)

Have them a few laps around the area, probably ten minutes and then ran into problems starting. And when it did it would stall when try to switch between forward and reverse and/or applying throttle.

Long story short, and after screwing around with the shifter adjustment for a long time (like an hour plus), I think I burnt out the CVT belt. The wheels were engaging at idle whether it was in forward or reverse. The was a mid-point between the two where brother would engage and I could start the engine. But, as soon as I tried to put it to either, it would try to "jump" into gear and stall. I didn't lube anything with the CVT, and I think the belt got so hot it started to melt it leave debris along the sides of the two wheels.

After I realized that, removed the CVT gears(?)/wheels/clutch/whatever they are called. Cleaned with brake cleaner, and put the new belt on. Kart no longer sound the tires at idle whether in forward or reverse. Lesson learned about weight and hills.

Two questions to the group:

The CVT belt (and replacement) have 715 printed on them. I'm now on the hunt to buy some backup belts. What size do I get?
-some sites say the 673 is the Cheetah 8 replacement. Based on the parts manual it looks like the 725 is the replacement. Neither is the 715. Is there a preferred seller to buy from with longer lasting belts,

-looking through manuals and online videos, it looks like I should be lubricating the CVT. Is that the faces the belt touches? Is it the springs inside the clutch? What type of lubrication should I use? I have white lithium grease on hand. One video said dry graphite. What's the board think?
Alao, any other spots to lube? The chain seems plenty oily, and I'll apply anti seize to the axles by the wheels. Don't see any grease points otherwise, but maybe I'm missing common spots?
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Careful with that anti sieze. One drop will cover the world. You will have it smeared all over and you'll look like the tin man.

The sides of the CVT should be smooth and dry. No lube there.
Dry graphite spray is awesome for lubing the places where the parts slide on each other. It doesn't attract dirt like a wet lube would.

You most likely have fallen to the yak hair belts.
Measure the center to center distance between the pullies and measure the diameter of your driven or secondary pulley. Probably 7". Then look at the comet chart for 30 series belts with those measurements.

Post pics of your belt. Im curious too see what it looks like after just a few laps.
 

Denny

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USE ONLY GENUINE COMET BRAND BELTS FOR BEST AND LONGEST LASTING PERFORMANCE!!!
The yack grease and rice fiber belts that came with the kart are junk. So are all the other cheap belts. Follow WTR’s advice about measuring and lubrication of the clutches. Under no circumstances should oil or grease go near the clutches!
 

panchothedog

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From your picture it looks like a very common 30 series torque converter. As stated by
WTR, diameter of driven ( rear ) pully 6" or 7" and distance center to center of shafts will tell you exactly which one to buy. GPS, and OMB Warehouse both have belt charts on their website. Avoid the cheapie belts on Amazon. Both places sell quality belts.
 

bcort

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Mostly a hour to myself for future reference: Measured the CVT. 6" drive pulley and 6 3/4"-6 7/8" center to center. This corresponds to Comet 203589/203589a. (I think they're essentially the same belt, or at least that's what Google tells me.. that the "a" is a direct replacement. The charts I saw seemed to start at 6 15/16 but others had "under 7")

Kids got to ride around for 10 or so minutes today. Didn't actually drive it after I thought I figured out the problem yesterday, so it was good that it was actually the problem. Definitely investing in higher quality belts as these seem like they won't let long (though myself and the kids is ~325lbs so we're probably passing the limits, advertised as 400 lbs, of these belts on anything other than completely flat terrain).

Thanks for the advice on the anti-seize. Arrived but haven't applied it yet. (Baseball and mowing... Just now got to measuring the torque converter)

Need to pick up some dry graphite but next time I swap belts will give it a proper lube. I didn't notice anything with the first belt (it still looks ok, but it certainly left a good bit of material on the pulleys. I'll eventually get a pic on here for it).
 
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