Trailmaster 150 XRX Not Starting, Solenoid Just Clicks

[ParkerLadd]

Trailmaster 150XRX Not Starting, Solenoid Clicks (Need help)

I have a Trailmaster 150 XRX that sat in a garage for about a year. I put a new battery, new carburetor, and new tank of gas in it and got it to start and run/drive. However, over the next couple days it started to die. I would attempt to start if and it would just click at the solenoid, but after a few tries it would work. Then it got worse and worse until it just wouldn’t ever start and now the solenoid just clicks. I have since replaced the starter relay, but when I turn the key it doesn’t click so someone suggested it was an electrical issue. I have tried jumping the starter solenoid with a screwdriver, and when I do the starter turns, but it doesn’t start. I also took the starter out and hooked it directly to a battery and it turns. Not sure if that means it’s good or not but someone on YouTube said it did. I tested the wires on the relay (4 pins) and there are two multicolor wires that get 12v when I turn the key, one green/white wire that always has 12v, and one green wire that never gets above .5v, even with the key turned. Im no expert but I’m assuming that’s the problem, though I’m having trouble tracing where the green wire goes. Does that sound like the root of the issue and if so, where do I go from here? Thanks in advance for the help!
Edit- I found a wiring diagram if it helps any

https://www.bmikarts.com/PDF/Trailmaster%20Manuals/150%20XRX/150xrxcircuite.pdf

 

[madprofessor]

one green wire that never gets above .5v, even with the key turned

Chances are that wire is the negative/ground wire, and you're just reading some fractional voltage via what's often called "ground bleed", or "mag field reading", etc. If that's the negative/ground wire, ignore the fractional voltage. Where you do get 12vdc, you should actually be getting 12vdc plus at least part of a volt more if the battery is fully charged. (Like a 12vdc car battery reading 13-14vdc.).

I’m having trouble tracing where the green wire goes

You do need to follow that wire, see if it's attached to metal somewhere as a ground, or to the battery negative terminal. If green wire is attached to metal, the battery negative should be also, and the metal where the wire's attached must be continuous to the metal where the battery's attached. That is, the frame's ground path being uninterrupted by a swingarm, shocks, motor mounts, dash panel, etc. Any doubts, just hook up a temporary piece of wire between the 2 metal contact points. Then you'd have a solid ground, the absence of which means it may not start, or even spin over, or God knows what all. Get that much ascertained (full voltage and solid ground) and you're halfway there.

 

[ParkerLadd]

Chances are that wire is the negative/ground wire, and you're just reading some fractional voltage via what's often called "ground bleed", or "mag field reading", etc. If that's the negative/ground wire, ignore the fractional voltage. Where you do get 12vdc, you should actually be getting 12vdc plus at least part of a volt more if the battery is fully charged. (Like a 12vdc car battery reading 13-14vdc.).

You do need to follow that wire, see if it's attached to metal somewhere as a ground, or to the battery negative terminal. If green wire is attached to metal, the battery negative should be also, and the metal where the wire's attached must be continuous to the metal where the battery's attached. That is, the frame's ground path being uninterrupted by a swingarm, shocks, motor mounts, dash panel, etc. Any doubts, just hook up a temporary piece of wire between the 2 metal contact points. Then you'd have a solid ground, the absence of which means it may not start, or even spin over, or God knows what all. Get that much ascertained (full voltage and solid ground) and you're halfway there.

I will be back in the garage Monday and I will attempt to follow that wire again. However, when I measured the other three wires, they were actually only getting about 11.4-11.5 volts, not a full 12v. I thought that was just normal but after reading your reply it seems like that is not enough? Could that be stopping the relay from clicking? I had the battery charged at advanced auto, and I also tried a battery from my four wheeler that I know is good, neither worked, so im sure it’s not the battery.

 

[Karttekk]

You probably have a bad ground. Most ground wires on those buggy vehicles are green. Typical GY6 issue. Usually the negative battery cable connects to the drive belt cover. Clean the connection with sandpaper until it's shiny. Check all grounds. Clean the battery posts and cable ends thoroughly. Tighten every connection firmly. A rule of thumb is to connect the positive cable first then the negative.

Scroll to Section 3-31, page 48 https://americanlandmaster.com/pdfs/LUTV/150cc-service-manual-14589R4.pdf

 

[ParkerLadd]

You probably have a bad ground. Most ground wires on those buggy vehicles are green. Typical GY6 issue. Usually the negative battery cable connects to the drive belt cover. Clean the connection with sandpaper until it's shiny. Check all grounds. Clean the battery posts and cable ends thoroughly. Tighten every connection firmly. A rule of thumb is to connect the positive cable first then the negative.

Scroll to Section 3-31, page 48 https://americanlandmaster.com/pdfs/LUTV/150cc-service-manual-14589R4.pdf

I found the connection on the drive belt cover where there is a bolt that holds down the wire green wire and battery negative wire. I cleaned Borge of them and the connection. I also cleaned the battery terminals and wires, but all to no avail. Any idea where I go from here?

 

[ParkerLadd]

Chances are that wire is the negative/ground wire, and you're just reading some fractional voltage via what's often called "ground bleed", or "mag field reading", etc. If that's the negative/ground wire, ignore the fractional voltage. Where you do get 12vdc, you should actually be getting 12vdc plus at least part of a volt more if the battery is fully charged. (Like a 12vdc car battery reading 13-14vdc.).

You do need to follow that wire, see if it's attached to metal somewhere as a ground, or to the battery negative terminal. If green wire is attached to metal, the battery negative should be also, and the metal where the wire's attached must be continuous to the metal where the battery's attached. That is, the frame's ground path being uninterrupted by a swingarm, shocks, motor mounts, dash panel, etc. Any doubts, just hook up a temporary piece of wire between the 2 metal contact points. Then you'd have a solid ground, the absence of which means it may not start, or even spin over, or God knows what all. Get that much ascertained (full voltage and solid ground) and you're halfway there.

I followed the wire to the point where it connects and meets up with the battery negative on the side of the drive belt cover. I didn’t see anything that would be stopping it from grounding.

 

[Karttekk]

Run a new 10 or 12 gauge ground wire from the negative battery post to one of the starter mounting bolts. See if that makes any difference. Still sounds like a bad ground to me.

 

[Karttekk]

Do a wiggle test. Unplug then plug back in every power wire or ground harness. Get a 12 volt test light, clip it to ground then put the probe on the solenoid. Try cranking the engine. See if the light illuminates. Try the test light method at the key switch. Broken wire, bad connector or the brake switch (if installed) isn't working right. You'll find it.

 

[ParkerLadd]

Run a new 10 or 12 gauge ground wire from the negative battery post to one of the starter mounting bolts. See if that makes any difference. Still sounds like a bad ground to me.

But when I jump the solenoid the starter turns. By jumping I mean putting a screwdriver in between the two bolts on the solenoid. I may be wrong but I just seems like that would eliminate most problems with the starter. I response to the solenoid testing, I put a 12v tester on it and the side with the red wire was reading a little over 12v, the side with the black wire had barely any voltage on it. While I wait I will look around to see if I have a ground wire I can use I’m just confused how that would happen if the start still spins when jumping the solenoid. Thanks

Edit- I tried putting a ground wire straight from the starter to the battery negative but it didn’t change anything. Also after watching a YT video some guy said the negative side of the solenoid is supposed to have almost 12 volts whereas mine only has about .5v, could that be a problem. I’m confused though, because others say if you jump the solenoid and the start spins it means the solenoid is fine?

 

[Karttekk]

But when I jump the solenoid the starter turns. By jumping I mean putting a screwdriver in between the two bolts on the solenoid. I may be wrong but I just seems like that would eliminate most problems with the starter. I response to the solenoid testing, I put a 12v tester on it and the side with the red wire was reading a little over 12v, the side with the black wire had barely any voltage on it. While I wait I will look around to see if I have a ground wire I can use I’m just confused how that would happen if the start still spins when jumping the solenoid. Thanks

Edit- I tried putting a ground wire straight from the starter to the battery negative but it didn’t change anything. Also after watching a YT video some guy said the negative side of the solenoid is supposed to have almost 12 volts whereas mine only has about .5v, could that be a problem. I’m confused though, because others say if you jump the solenoid and the start spins it means the solenoid is fine?

I'm familiar with jumping a solenoid. This isn't about testing the starter, it's about ensuring there is a good ground for the engine to crank. Yes, if jumping the solenoid allows the engine to crank it should be okay. The problem is it doesn't sound like there's a strong enough circuit current to crank the engine. Use your test light at different "hots" or wires that carry current as you try cranking the engine to see where the problem might be. Put the probe on the positive side of the solenoid then turn the key to crank. If the light illuminates you've got power there. Do that with the key switch, the brake switch and anywhere power is eventually running to the starter. Did you unplug then reconnect your harnesses? Take a look at the harness going to the CDI, especially the green wire.

 

[Karttekk]

There are only so many parts to the puzzle. Battery, starter, solenoid, wiring, key switch and brake switch if it's there. Your test light should help narrow it down.

 

[ParkerLadd]

I'm familiar with jumping a solenoid. This isn't about testing the starter, it's about ensuring there is a good ground for the engine to crank. Yes, if jumping the solenoid allows the engine to crank it should be okay. The problem is it doesn't sound like there's a strong enough circuit current to crank the engine. Use your test light at different "hots" or wires that carry current as you try cranking the engine to see where the problem might be. Put the probe on the positive side of the solenoid then turn the key to crank. If the light illuminates you've got power there. Do that with the key switch, the brake switch and anywhere power is eventually running to the starter. Did you unplug then reconnect your harnesses? Take a look at the harness going to the CDI, especially the green wire.

I checked the wires on the cdi a while back and they all looked fine. I will try do some multimeter testing on it though, as well as unplugging and re plugging stuff.

 

[madprofessor]

But when I jump the solenoid the starter turns. By jumping I mean putting a screwdriver in between the two bolts on the solenoid.

All you're doing when jumping power across those 2 bolts is forcing what's already hot on one post right into the starter windings via the other post. You aren't doing anything at that point that involves the solenoid. The solenoid that clicks is supposed to not only engage the starter teeth with the flywheel, but to also do exactly what you just did with a screwdriver, to close the circuit between those 2 posts.
What you have said so far (original first post) is that the starter turns, but it won't start. You HAVE NOT SAID if the starter is spinning the engine over when it spins via jumping the 2 posts with a screwdriver, or if only the starter itself is all that's spinning. Is that what you mean by "it won't start"? That the starter itself spins, but not the engine itself? The solenoid has 2 jobs to do in a single click..........to spin the starter itself, and to engage the flywheel teeth.

 

[ParkerLadd]

All you're doing when jumping power across those 2 bolts is forcing what's already hot on one post right into the starter windings via the other post. You aren't doing anything at that point that involves the solenoid. The solenoid that clicks is supposed to not only engage the starter teeth with the flywheel, but to also do exactly what you just did with a screwdriver, to close the circuit between those 2 posts.
What you have said so far (original first post) is that the starter turns, but it won't start. You HAVE NOT SAID if the starter is spinning the engine over when it spins via jumping the 2 posts with a screwdriver, or if only the starter itself is all that's spinning. Is that what you mean by "it won't start"? That the starter itself spins, but not the engine itself? The solenoid has 2 jobs to do in a single click..........to spin the starter itself, and to engage the flywheel teeth.

Just tested it out again, the whole engine jumps a little and it almost sounds like it is attempting to turn over so the engine is spinning.

 

[FlyFrog]

has anyone mentioned maybe the engine is locking up and making it harder to spin?

 

[ParkerLadd]

has anyone mentioned maybe the engine is locking up and making it harder to spin?

no