Torque convertor

[jslider]

OK SO I BOUGHT THE CHEAPY TORQUE CONVERTOR ON EBAY FOR A 110.00, INSTALLING IT ONTO A PREDATOR AND I HAVE READ THAT SOME SPACERS ARE NEEDED DUE TO THE DESIGN OF THE PREDATOR 6.5 BUT I ENDED UP NEEDING ABOUT 3/4 TO 1" OF WASHERS STACKED UP TO MAKE THE PULLEYS LINE UP.

I KNOW THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITH OUT THE PICTURES AND WILL GET SOME TONIGHT.

THE TORQUE CONVERTOR HAS THE BELT WITH ONE SIDE THAT IS FLAT OR A VERY SLIGHT ANGLE AND THE OTHER THAT IS A LARGER ANGLE.

JUST WONDERING IF ANY OTHERS HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE IN INSTALLING A TORQUE CONVERTOR. IT ALL BOLTS UP TIGHT BUT THERE IS PROBABLY ONLY 1/2 TO 3/4 OF AN INCH OF SHAFT ON THE DRIVER PULLEY PORTION THAT EXPANDS INWARD.

LIKE I SAID I WILL GRAB SOME PICS AND POST THOSE A LITTLE LATER.

THANKS FOR INPUT.

 

[xXPhasemanXx]

Is your caps lock stuck?

 

[jslider]

Sorry about that I use only caps at work so rarely worry about it, it is ok though as my grammar and punctuation sucks to.

ok I have some pics i am working on uploading them

long shot of the set up probably no help but there it is all assembled

once again probably very little help but here is the belt

here i have removed the driver and you can see maybe a 1/2" of shaft left for the outer driver pulley, this little amount of shaft is what is concerning me.

this is the stack of washers that i had to use to get the pulleys to line up

these are the washers that i had to use to get the inner pulley to not hit the mounting bolts

this is the stack that i had to use to get the pulleys to line up that is about 1/2"

i used a long screw driver to check the alignment this is what it looks like with the extra 1/2" of washers.


so there you go i have provided pictures whether they are helpful or not i dont know but this thread is now official let me know what you think . thanks

 

[landuse]

Yes it is normal to need a spacer, and NO you should never use a stack of washers to do the job. A piece of pipe or a solid spacer cut to length is required to do the job

 

[Felineman]

WOW at first I thought it was tapered, but as I look at it thats a VERY short shaft. What engine is that?

 

[Half-breeder]

Sorry about that I use only caps at work so rarely worry about it, it is ok though as my grammar and punctuation sucks to.

ok I have some pics i am working on uploading them

long shot of the set up probably no help but there it is all assembled
View attachment 47616
once again probably very little help but here is the belt
View attachment 47617
here i have removed the driver and you can see maybe a 1/2" of shaft left for the outer driver pulley, this little amount of shaft is what is concerning me.
View attachment 47618
this is the stack of washers that i had to use to get the pulleys to line up
View attachment 47619
these are the washers that i had to use to get the inner pulley to not hit the mounting bolts
View attachment 47623
this is the stack that i had to use to get the pulleys to line up that is about 1/2"
View attachment 47624
i used a long screw driver to check the alignment this is what it looks like with the extra 1/2" of washers.
View attachment 47626

so there you go i have provided pictures whether they are helpful or not i dont know but this thread is now official let me know what you think . thanks

....instead of spacing the 'Driver' out... You can just remove the washer on the "driven", n replace w/ a thinner washer... thats what I did. TAV2 assembly.

...and FYI... you DO want the driven to protrude out a very lil further than the Driver(like 1/16"~1/8"). Reason is you dont want the belt to 'rest' on the back plate/pulley(at idle a groove can be worn into the belt, causing all sorts of future issues). Youll want the belt to 'just' skim the back plate/pulley while the motor is running at idle, but the majority of the belt should be resting on the copper ring, on the driver.

 

[Felineman]

For those that complain about the caps, be lucky he didn't have the WINGDING font on

 

[firemanjim]

he said "wingding"...... That's a funny sounding word......

 

[jslider]

WOW at first I thought it was tapered, but as I look at it thats a VERY short shaft. What engine is that?

this is the harbor freight 212cc 6.5 hp engine. 2nd one i have gotten good little motor i get them for 75 dollars when on sale.

....instead of spacing the 'Driver' out... You can just remove the washer on the "driven", n replace w/ a thinner washer... thats what I did. TAV2 assembly.

...and FYI... you DO want the driven to protrude out a very lil further than the Driver(like 1/16"~1/8"). Reason is you dont want the belt to 'rest' on the back plate/pulley(at idle a groove can be worn into the belt, causing all sorts of future issues). Youll want the belt to 'just' skim the back plate/pulley while the motor is running at idle, but the majority of the belt should be resting on the copper ring, on the driver.

cant remove the washer it is not thick at all and when i removed the chain rubs on the jack shaft plate. i will remove one of the washers to give the desired angle, that makes sense when you think about it

For those that complain about the caps, be lucky he didn't have the WINGDING font on

i looked for the wingding font and could not find i may not have it. but if i did i would promise to use it from work from here on.

 

[88nightrider]

For those that complain about the caps, be lucky he didn't have the WINGDING font on

he said "wingding"...... That's a funny sounding word......

i looked for the wingding font and could not find i may not have it. but if i did i would promise to use it from work from here on.

Maybe that would help stop some of the misunderstandings on this forum... Or maybe not

Edit: And its Wingdings

 

[Half-breeder]

...cant remove the washer it is not thick at all and when i removed the chain rubs on the jack shaft plate. i will remove one of the washers to give the desired angle, that makes sense when you think about it

...so your saying that if you remove the washer(w/ the key slot cut out of the ID) your chain rubs?... kinda makes me think your runnin a #40 chain and not a #41 chain(same pitch... just a wider chain).

This is the view of mine... TAV2 (China knockoff) #41 chain, 9T gear... the washer w/ the key slot is out and a thin washer(shim) in its place...(the camera makes the pulleys seem more outta line than they actually are... only 1/8" off center