Torque Convertor TAV2 30 Belt wear and tear (PIC)

[cadsii]

Hey Everyone,

Just installed a TQ Comet TAV2 30 on my kart with the new $35 belt, i see some fraying starting on the outside, just minimal, but is this normal ?

 

[itsid]

well, if your sheaves are as rusty as the outside of your TC..
then it's no wonder it starts to desintegrate already...

No that's not normal since I would actually call that minimal where it meets the driver...

So, make sure your sheaves are perfectly smooth;
driver and driven.

'sid

 

[cadsii]

sorry sheaves as in the inside part of the TQ that the belt grips on ? they are nice and smooth, just the outside is rusted.

I will double check again, alignment is dead, don't know what else it could be, should I be worried the belt is going to go, I've been out a few hours and got this result above, and I always bring a spare just in case

 

[itsid]

well.. your gearing may be off by a few teeth;
for example due to a too heavy kart or too big wheels or too much top speed on your wishlist...

It's also quite possible that your driven unit isn't working anymore...
has the cam moved passed the buttons?
then the cam cannot shift up and keeps the belt fixed to low gear..
the driver then can eat away on the belt real quick.

'sid

 

[cadsii]

Sorry let me give you a bit more info, i'm not sure what you mean cam moved passed the buttons ?

I'm on 22" tires, kart is pretty heavy, carbie double seater with full size battery onboard. I'm at 10t on the driven and 60t on the axel putting me at 6:1, which i know is on the edge for that setup. I figure the TQ would provide enough lenience to put up with that ratio.

60t is all they have around here for size and still gives me good ground clearance. I could go down to an 9t on the driver bringing me to 6.7:1

 

[cadsii]

I also change the spring settings from stock 1 to 3 for latest engagement of the tQ, my cart also has no rev limiter as it was broken when I picked it up

 

[KartFab]

if its not rust/misalignment, your drive unit is probably slipping on the belt upon initial engagement, causing the fraying.... at lest that's my best guess. Is that actually a 1" shaft? im also guessing, but i have a hunch.

6:1 on 22's for that engine size is just too much resistance to start for the torque converter, but I bet you get a nice top speed!

 

[cadsii]

I really don't want another jackshaft assembly what do u recommend ? 72t and 9t on the drive ? And yes it's 1"

 

[KartFab]

you can go down to 9t or 8t BMIkarts.com no need to change anything else.

 

[itsid]

Sorry let me give you a bit more info, i'm not sure what you mean cam moved passed the buttons ?

you have three sets of two black rubber buttons on your driven unit


The cam should not sit in between the two that form a pair.
it needs to touch (at idle/engine off) ONE button at the outer side just like in the picture.

And yes.. you're pushing it beyond it's limits with wheels that big...
maybe 20" wheels will work already.. 18" will for sure.
Just in case you think about new tires anyways
If you don't just do what gran pann suggested.. change your gearing, since that's the cheaper thing to do now.

'sid

 

[cadsii]

Will 8t be fine not too small ?

 

[cadsii]

No I just refit the springs the cam is on the left side of the buttons

 

[itsid]

left is relativ to your point of view

like in the picture (correct) or on the opposite side (unable to shift)?

'sid

 

[landuse]

I also have a suspicion that it is a gearing issue. Those tyres are BIG.

Also, please do not double post. You will see an edit button on the bottom right of each of your posts. If you want to add something, click on that and edit your post

 

[cadsii]

This is how mine is winded, i preloaded with 180 degrees counter clockwise when i set the spring

 

[itsid]

180° that's impossible ! (there are three valleys, so it's 120°, 240° or 360°)

120° is what you want, 240° is too much;
since you said it's 180° which is right down the middle it can be either...

you want the cam in the NEXT valley
(to be precise, that's even less than a full 120°, closer to 90° after it snapped back, I'd say)
and having the rear sheave fixed (and thus the cam) you want to move the sheave clockwise, until the cam moves one valley CCW.
but yes.. the direction you have is correct, no matter that the terminology is a bit confusing

'sid

 

[Half-breeder]

Coulda swore i made an instructoral vid on this... sigh.

 

[itsid]

Okay.. there are some posts missing here..

anyways...

So too much preload it was.
and the cam snapped back too violently skipping the buttons.

Also the buttons look rather soft to me
(as far as one could tell by looking at a picture that is of course )
they should not deform more like rubbery plastic than hard rubber if you know what I mean.

'sid

 

[KartFab]

Those are the correct buttons. I have seen them a couple times on genuine comet 6" driven units. They are hard. Threw me off the first time I saw them as all I had seen before were black.