torque converters for sale

[toofarnorth]

I have a couple used torque converters that I don't think I'll ever get around to using so here ya go they are both 30 series with 6" driven pully and 5/8" jackshaft the driver is 3/4" bore. The better of the two has an 11 tooth sprocket looks like it takes a 41 chain, I think you could just bolt it on and go. the other one is a 9 tooth that needs new buttons, a spring and snap ring on the driven. I'd like $80 for the 11 tooth and $60 for the 9 tooth, I also have a fairly worn out 60 tooth sprocket and a well used manco 5959 belt that I think fits the TC that I'll throw in with the 11 tooth if you want it. I also have a 30" piece of #40 chain that looks to be in good shape, 2 new torq-a-verter covers and one other cover

 

[vandancouver]

i havent installed a tav yet. im curious about the way it goes..i definetly need one and this looks like the deal i want.

i have a centrifugal clutch now, 3/4 bore. sprocket that connects to my wheel hub. #40 chain. will what your selling here work fo rme?

 

[oscaryu1]

So the $80 is a kit? Like a whole "brand new" kit that you would get?

If so, PM'd.

 

[oscaryu1]

All right nevermind guys, this one isn't the motor bolt on type, so I can't use it >.<

 

[toofarnorth]

The only difference between these and a Torque-A-verter is that on these the Jack shaft plate is sandwiched between the engine and it's mounting plate rather than bolted to the side of the engine. You would have to look at your engine and see if you have room for the driven pulley the center of the jack shaft is 2" behind the rear engine mounting bolt and the driven pulley is 6" in diameter and sticks out about 5 1/2" from the rear engine mounting bolt. These have a .9:1 overdrive so if you used the 9 tooth your top speed wouldn't change, you would get there a lot faster though If you used the 11 tooth you'd still have better exceleration and you're top speed would increase by about 20% I think, my math may be bad though might be a little less.

 

[toofarnorth]

I just looked up the parts you'd need to get the 9 tooth converter up and running at mfgsupply.com it'd be $18.36+ shipping and that includes new bearings which it doesn't really need.

 

[jorge0136]

I am interested in one of these converters, have been looking for one for some time now. I have questions about whether or not it would work with my setup however. I currently am running #35 chain. I am unsure of the size of the driven sprocket on the wheel I will go find out. Do I need to check the size of my keyway? I have a 3/4 inch bore. Would you mind taking a look at some photos and determining if it would work on my kart?

 

[jorge0136]

It is a single wheel drive kart. The wheels are on 6 inch rims, including the tire it is about 13.5 inches tall. 12 tooth centrifugal clutch, 76 tooth driven wheel sprocket. Additionally the threads of the tap at the end of the crankshaft on my engine had a bolt and a e-z out tool snapped off inside of it. This made it impossible to keep the clutch on the engine. I tried notching the crankshaft of the engine and holding the clutch in with set screws. I put the notches too outboard of the engine and the clutch would slip out just enough to allow the chain to come off. The long and the short of this story is that there is a washer welded onto the end of my crankshaft to hold the clutch on. I will probably need to get a new crank shaft, before I try and get a torque converter, right?

 

[toofarnorth]

I think you're out of luck if you want to run a torque converter on that kart, the way your engine mount is set up there isn't room for the driven pulley behind the engine, and if you found a way around that you'd have to set up the converter with the sprocket on the outside of the pulley which would require a longer 5/8" jackshaft and with the leverage from the sprocket on the end of your jackshaft you might end up breaking the shaft. The best way to use a torque converter on that kart would be to reengineer your engine mounting plate and convert it to a live axle, that way you can move the axle sprocket over to line up with the jackshaft sprocket.

 

[jorge0136]

Well bother, I just installed that engine and somewhat rengineered the mounting plate. The live axle I have been looking at for some time now. I simply don't have the monetary funds to collect all the parts I need. Well perhaps if you still have the converters when I collect the cash I will sling you a line again.

 

[vandancouver]

yeah i got my torque driven off of toofarnorth. hes a reputable guy, quick and easy. i sent him a check in the mail, he sent me the part in the mail. we even exchanged a few emails during the time of shipping. went smooth as possible. id definetly work with him again

 

[r_chez_08]

toofarnorth what would it cost to post to the uk?

 

[toofarnorth]

toofarnorth what would it cost to post to the uk?

I've never shipped anything internationally before, it looks like if I disassemble it I could fit it in a regular flat rate box so that would be $41.95 + probably an extra $5 for insurance and delivery confirmation... OUCH!!

 

[crappyballer]

do you have any left?

 

[toofarnorth]

I sold one of my drivers to Dan so I have what's left of that setup and one complete torque converter still.

 

[r_chez_08]

i have a friend who frequently visits the us, what would you accept for the complete 60t and belt, chain, but not the jack shaft. what would the postage be approxamatly to most places, as i dont have a post code

 

[toofarnorth]

the price for the driver and driven pulleys, belt, chain, and sprocket would be $80+ $12 shipping with or without the jack shaft, I did notice the driven pulley needs a snap ring and new wear buttons that are available at mfgsupply pretty cheap. like I said in the original post the belt is well used and I don't know how much life is left in it, the 60 tooth sprocket is also fairly worn and you'd need more chain then the piece that will come with it.

 

[r_chez_08]

sorry i didnt mean the 60t, just the other stuff listed. i will think about it.