Torque Converter
- Thread starter redflash
- Start date
Denny
Canned Monster
No. There won’t be enough belt wrap on the drive clutch because the secondary is bigger. You will have to switch to a jackshaft set up. They do make a 40 series with a back plate. I can not recommend it though because there is an alignment issue at high speed. Some people say it does not matter. I say it does by reducing belt life and uses extra power making it less efficient.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Complete agreement with that statement. The driver/driven need to be facing in opposite directions on the 40 series, and the backplate units I've seen have the driven on backwards, so it acts like Denny said. Here's an example of that, with the driven on backwards................
Amazon.com: 40 Series Go Kart Torque Converter Kit With Belt, Clutch Pulley Driver Driven 8 to 16 HP : Automotive
Here's what I would get in a 40 series............Ignore that it shows the driven backward, you'd flip it over to mount on your own jackshaft.............
Amazon.com: Jeremywell 40 Series Torque Converter Kit Clutch Pulley 1" Driver 3/4" Driven 8 to 16HP Belt replaces Comet 40D Series Torq-A-Verter models 209133A, 209133, 209139A, 209139, 209151A and Manco 2432 : Automotive
NOTE: I think all 40 series have a 1" driver. What size is the crankshaft for your 30 series? If 3/4", you'd have to use a shaft adapter. This here 1" x 3/4" ain't it, because it has to have a keyway for shaft and for driver, can't remember where I saw the right sort of adapter to save my life...................BUSHING/SPACER, STEEL, 1″ OD X 3/4″ ID X 1-7/8″ LENGTH » Azusaparts
Can't do a jack shaft, would have to entirely re engineer the frame, not gonna do that.....so I'm guessing the 40 series with it's back plate is the next way to go ?????
and Mad.....that bushing has no keyways.....I would think you would need both an internal and external keyway to facilitate the drive shaft.
am I wrong ? Hold the phone....that's what ye said......duh
Da Flash
and Mad.....that bushing has no keyways.....I would think you would need both an internal and external keyway to facilitate the drive shaft.
am I wrong ? Hold the phone....that's what ye said......duh
Da Flash
Last edited:
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Correct, and thanks for the reread to see what I said. Now, you just gave me an insight that I'd either overlooked or forgotten about. It might very well be that the shaft adapter I saw before did indeed have both an internal keyway and an external keystock (NOT 2 keyways).
It was bugging my brain how that adapter could bite both ways, and that would be it. It could be split end-to-end with a 1/4" keyway for the 3/4" motor shaft, and be locked in with a piece of 1/4" keystock. Then on the outside of itself it could have a rectangular profile piece of 1/4" wide x 1/8" deep keystock fully spotwelded on for the 1" I.D. of the 40 series driver clutch.
Man, I have just gotta find one of those things online and pin it to my favorites file for the future.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Maybe for some, but not for me. I would never want to get more than walking distance from shelter (home base) with that setup.
All you can do when the movable pulley surfaces are on the same side is to shim the driver out so the pulleys are only halfway misaligned when at rest. Then they'd only be halfway misaligned in the other direction when fully shifted. Not good enough for me, but I'm OCD. And a poet. The movement is simple...............
When set up properly with the 40 series pulleys opposite each other, at rest the driver is wide open, and the driven is fully closed, and the V-belt is perfectly aligned. As the pulleys shift, the driver end moves toward the engine, and the (opposite-mounted) driven end moves that way also. The V-belt moves with them toward the engine at both ends. While it's hard to imagine 100% perfect alignment the whole time through the whole travel of the belt, it's easy to imagine that's as good as it's going to get.
Denny
Canned Monster
Comet never made a 40 series with a backplate because of the issues. They used a jackshaft.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
......... thanks for that, redflash! Been feeling cruddy today, but that got a good laugh out of me, I needed that.Here's the GKS link that explains how to get that measurement, find the diagram for the "40 and 44 series" , "symmetric 7/8" wide". You'll note that the driver/driven are reversed in the diagram, as they should be.
You only need to decide if you want the driver to be a 7.5" or 8.5" pulley, the chart will name your Comet belt based on the center-to-center distance between crankshaft and jackshaft. You can put your jackshaft anywhere that one of those c-c measurements allows for (7.5" - 15.5" c-c for a 7.5" driven, or 8.0625" - 14.21875" for an 8.5" driven). Do read all of the text at the top of and down at the bottom of the GKS page.........
Go Kart Belts | Comet Torque Converter Belts | Go Kart Drive Belts (gokartsupply.com)
Denny
Canned Monster
Denny
Canned Monster
I guess that depends? Oh wait, don’t say Depends around old people!
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
That's all correct, but I forgot to mention..............You'll be needing to adjust the motor back/forth in a slotted mount for chain tensioning. You should mount your jackshaft on a plate along with the motor, so it moves back/forth with the motor. Otherwise, the motor will have to stay in one place, and chain tensioning will have to be done with some kind of separate chain tensioner. See homemade tensioner with an idler sprocket for secondary chain in pics below.................
Attachments
-
100_0171.JPG -
100_0169.JPG
MWKarter
Member
My Yerf Dog 3203 has a separate jackshaft mount bracket, that butts up against the engine, and has elongated slots in the same chassis mounted engine mount plate. You loosen up the engine mount bolts and the jackshaft mount bolts. Move the engine to adjust the chain and tighten the engine mount bolts. Slide the jackshaft bracket up tight against the engine and tighten the bracket mount bolts. Centerline to Centerline is maintained this way. At least, that is what I have been doing.
i've built an exact replica of my rear swing arm and motor mounts out of wood...exact dimensions in every respect. when my jack shaft kit arrives this week, I'll mount it on the replica, and mount the driven and sprocket onto it, and see if the whole system will work with a big block. That way I'll be sure to align the driven sprocket with the sprocket on the Mazda Miata diff . This way I will cut every detail on the wood replica to determine the exact measurements to cut on my actual motor mount, and therefore I won't butcher the cart when making the switch to big block and 40 series......MEASURE 6 TIMES....CUT ONCE... HUH !
Da Flash
Da Flash
Last edited: