Torque converter troubles.

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Isaac123514

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I have recently been having trouble with my comet 30 series torque converter that is attached to a 212 predator with removed governor and upgraded air intake and jet. I've gone threw two belts and I think I have finally broken the tourqe converter. Obviously I need to get a stronger one but I can't seem to find one for a 3/4 inch shaft. What would be a good fit?

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Isaac
 

Poboy kartman

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I have recently been having trouble with my comet 30 series torque converter that is attached to a 212 predator with removed governor and upgraded air intake and jet. I've gone threw two belts and I think I have finally broken the tourqe converter. Obviously I need to get a stronger one but I can't seem to find one for a 3/4 inch shaft. What would be a good fit?

Thanks
Isaac

Issac....ummmm....EXACTLY the opposite of TMI.....
 

Isaac123514

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The torque converter seems broken because the driven clutch seems to wobble(. Will include pick pointing to what is wobbling). Upon closer inspection I seem to bought a belt that is slightly smaller than the original but had the same number.

https://s32.postimg.org/c3wzfnv45/20160716_143709.jpg

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itsid

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Not broken no...

it looks like the cam skipped the buttons on the driven unit..

(that triangle should sit in the -large- gap between the black rubber stops not betwenn two adjacent stops.)

if it slipped heavily.. you might also ruined the spring,
but buttons and a spring are just a few dolalrs, no ned to buy a new TC IMHO!

'sid
 

Isaac123514

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How can I tell if I ruined the spring or buttons? Could you explain how to set the driven clutch correctly?

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Isaac
 

itsid

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Sure..
first: remove the nut and washer from the driven unit and take it off the jackshaft.

Now get snapring pliers and remove the snapring you see.
(carefull the spring is pushing the cam towards you, so be sure to hold it in place)

Now put it aside lift the cam off the pulley
(it's going to get turned by the spring so again.. firm grip ;)

Now check the spring, if it's not a perfect coil but bulged or deformed.. it must be replaced
(the one you want is the green series 30 spring as the buttons available here:
http://www.gokartsupply.com/asymapp.htm)

Inspect your buttons, any loose, cracked or worn down button should be replaced
(they do come in packs of three) if in doubt swap it out.
they should sit in there really tight. so a set of pliers will help you pulling them out.
if you break the leg, just push it through .. but be sure to get rid off that nasty little leg :D
Pushing the new ones in can be hard as well.. a rubber mallet will help though.

While you're here.. you can clean and maintain the rest of the driven unit as well.. you'll never get a better opportunity to properly clean the sheaves ;)
fine grid scratch pad to remove all dirt grime and rust..
but as long as it's not pitted or really rusty there is no urgent need,
but the cleaner and smoother the sheaves are the better for performance and beltlife.

Now you have the new spring and installed the new buttons...
seat the new spring onto the shaft and into the hole in the sheave.
Put your cam back on and thread the other end in one of the three holes.
(hole one if you need the TC to stay in low gear a little longer [more torque],
hole three if you want it to shift up a little earlier [slightly quicker].
hole two for the average behaviour and OEM setting ..[this is what you want 99% of the time])

Hold your snapring pliers and the snapring handy!

push the cam down just so it hovers over the buttons.
Now grab the outer sheave and turn it clockwise (the spring should tighten against the shaft)
just so the cam moves past one set of buttons into the next valley.
you can -if that's more convenient- also hold the sheave in place and turn the cam counter clockwise of course.. same thing!

push it down completely and while holding it down with one hand reinstall the snapring from step two.

carefully let go of the cam (in case the snapring isn't seated properly)
and if it's not jumping to your face you're done :D

See?! wasn't all that bad was it?

'sid
 

Isaac123514

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Thank you so much for the informative response. In the process of fixing it now. Trying to find an alternative to snapring pliers.

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Isaac
 

itsid

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snapring pliers... not much alternative out there I'm afraid.
if you bent the snapring (say prying it off with a flathead screwdriver) you need to find the exact snapring again.. which costs more time and money than to buy the 6dollar snapring plier ;)
Worse:
needle nose pliers don't hold the snapring firmly.. and since that's springsteel.. it can jump you right in the face
(if you got hit in the eye by a grimy old snapring you're not happy about not having snapring pliers either)

get one.. it makes things sooo much easier :D
A cheap one is fine.. much better than the most expensive needle nose plier to remove those jumpy little eye-darts :D

'sid
 

Poboy kartman

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Well....I removed those little boogers for YEARS without getting hit in the eye and without snapring pliers....and reused them......(WHEN I COULD FIND THEM!)

But I don't know if I'll ever catch up spending the time kicking myself in the rear for not using them as I have hunting them down....

Yeah....still kicking myself for not getting a set YEARS ago!!!!
 

itsid

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Nut removed I assume?
try to push the cam down a hair more, and if possible deburr/clean/derust the shaft edges with a scotch pad;

if the cam doesn't come loose then,
you need to soak the shaft in penetrating oil ...
BUT thread a piece of rope through the driven and tie the ends..
since soaking might take a while the cam and spring may shoot off when you're not around.. with the rope they can't go anyway and stay on the rope for sure.

you can try to speed the process up by adding a bit of heat, but make sure you don't grill your plastic buttons... So just to keep them safe I'd rather wait a little longer ;)

'sid
 

Poboy kartman

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PB blaster is the best penetrating oil there is. Spray let sit over night then try. I've had lots of good results with it.

That used to be my favorite until I tried WD-40 Specialist Penetrating Oil. But honestly...I haven't tried acetone and ATF....But...I like applying my penetrating oil with a spray can with a straw.
 

Isaac123514

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I'm letting it soak in liquid wrench penetrating oil. It was all my local hardware store had. Hopefully it works otherwise I'll go to home Depot and get one of the ones you guys recommended.

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Isaac
 

Isaac123514

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Finally got the cam off took a lot of tapping from the hamme but got it off. I removed the 3 buttons that were bad however one of the legs broke off and I don't see a way of pushing it through. The rivets that hold the sheave to the pulley seem looset. It looks like the rivets broke off the die cast. Looks like I need a new driven clutch!

https://s32.postimg.org/7d43bmqut/20160719_202854.jpg

(It was like that before I tapped it with the hammer)

Thanks
Isaac
 

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itsid

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man that looks mean...

I can't tell if that's a cast part or not (it should not be)
so maybe you can ask a welder to fix that
(i.e. drill out rivets, remove crown, weld sheave, re-rivet)

or you'll can just buy a replacement (6" dia):
http://www.mfgsupply.com/gomini/gom...gominiclutchtorq30drivenparts/219466a-w1.html
or (7" dia):
http://www.mfgsupply.com/gomini/gom...30/gominiclutchtorq30drivenparts/219467a.html

(wait.. that pic IS the moveable sheave, correct??)

Anyways, I could've sworn my buttons sit in a throughhole...
ahwell.. copy anyways...

Now if you cannot push them through, take a drill bit smaller than the pin, drill the leg out slowly;
remove remains and call it a day ;)

'sid
 
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