Torque converter stuck

[Kartrider260]

I have a torque converter on my mini bike that has a predator 212 and the problem I’m having is when I go full throttle and rip it a couple times the torque converter seems to lock up the bike will die and when I go to pull the string again the wheel goes with the piston so every time I pull the string it goes forward also the bike does not roll back only sometimes if I keep jerking it forward and backward then sometimes I can get the torque converter to come unstuck and the bike will start again and drive fine till the problem repeats I took the torque converter apart and everything seems to be in working order it is a little dirty so I am going to clean it any suggestions to fix my problem I would appreciate

 

[pearl111]

Wow the longest sentence I've ever read. lol
Anyway, I think someone with more torque converter experience will probably help you, and
if you are able to put some pictures up, that would help allot.
Welcome to DIY.

 

[Denny]

Do not use any kind of oil on the parts! Use only Comet, graphite or molybendum to lube the internal parts of the clutch. Might try replacing the belt with a Genuine Comet belt also.

 

[panchothedog]

Take the drive clutch apart again. There is a heavy cast part with 4 very rounded corners about 2" long. Get some fine sandpaper and really work on where the corners or lobes meet the barrel . Then do the same to the female part into which it goes. Clean everything with brake parts cleaner. The heavy piece should FREELY fall through the female counterpart. You can use some graphite or dry lubricant on them. I reassemble mine bone dry and have good luck with them. They get dirt, belt dust, and oil film from the engine and then get all gumed up and the parts don't slide freely like they need to.

 

[madprofessor]

Doesn't that sound to y'all like a belt getting cinched up in the driven pulley?

 

[Rat]

Doesn't that sound to y'all like a belt getting cinched up in the driven pulley?

No

I have a torque converter on my mini bike that has a predator 212 and the problem I’m having is when I go full throttle and rip it a couple times the torque converter seems to lock up the bike will die and when I go to pull the string again the wheel goes with the piston so every time I pull the string it goes forward also the bike does not roll back only sometimes if I keep jerking it forward and backward then sometimes I can get the torque converter to come unstuck and the bike will start again and drive fine till the problem repeats I took the torque converter apart and everything seems to be in working order it is a little dirty so I am going to clean it any suggestions to fix my problem I would appreciate

Mine did something similar to this after several months... you need to clean everything out and relubricate it.

You are supposed to disassemble, clean, inspect for wear, and relubricate the driver every so many hours running. There's heat and friction regardless of lubrication type and amount, which means material gets shed from moving parts and gum it up.
Eventually if not cleaned the driver will begin to bind on the congealed slurry of metal and graphite.

On a side note, supposedly youre only supposed to use Comet dry lube or a graphite based compound. I've never been to find the specific paste, just the powder for locksets, so I've just been using PB Blaster white lithium with better than expected results for a bit over 3 years.

 

[Denny]

You can get powdered graphite at ACE hardware. Also the spray graphite for locks in the small blue can works great also. Also from ACE.

 

[Kartrider260]

I think it has something to do with the belt I cleaned and sanded everything but I didn’t dry lube it yet because I didn’t have any on hand but should this part of the converter look this tight?

 

[Rat]

I think it has something to do with the belt I cleaned and sanded everything but I didn’t dry lube it yet because I didn’t have any on hand but should this part of the converter look this tight?

That's Normal, as the engine RPM goes up the flyweights in the driver on the crankshaft force the driver to "become larger" which bites the belt making it ride up.
As it does this the driven "gets smaller" because the driver is forcing the belt deeper into the driven sheaves which is what gives it's the grip on the belt to do what needs doing.

This is a typical comet 30 at rest with a slightly stretched belt from putting miles on it again it's sitting how it's supposed to