Torque converter problems

[FurFlyin]

I started a thread a few weeks ago about the torque converter on the used go kart I bought for my kids. The drive pulley wasn't properly lined up and the belt was wrong, per a response I received on the thread. I got the correct belt and made and installed a bushing on the motor shaft to line up the drive with the driven. I took the torque converter drive apart and cleaned it really good, but didn't have any dry graphite spray to lube it with. Now the torque converter is sticking engaged. It keeps a grip on the belt even when the engine is off.

Will lubing the drive, fix that? And what do you lube on the 40 series torque converter?

Also the go kart is moving forward after it's cranked like the belt is too tight. I moved the engine back today to loosen the belt but it's still moving forward. It's moving fast enough that one of the kids has to be in the seat when it's cranked so they can take off. Even with weight in the kart it keeps going.

Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[qtband]

Does your driver have a bronze bushing where the belt rides? Not sure if the 40 uses one.

 

[FurFlyin]

Yes, it has 2 (maybe 3) brass or bronze bushings where the belt rides. They are narrow bushings instead of one wider one like a 30 series.

 

[jamyers]

Idle speed too high?

 

[Dvrice]

May need to take it apart, wire brush everything, apply a small amount of dry graphite, and get it moving freely.

 

[KartFab]

There are three flyweights inside the 40 series torque converter. Make sure they haven't flung out of the races/guides.

After cleaning, the only real place that you need to lubricate with dry lubricant is:

1)The flyweights have pins inside them, the springs are connected to these pins. Lubricate the pins. That's it I think... but here are some suggestions

- The shaft that the drivers moveable face slides back and forth on?

- The bronze bushings, spray, rotate the bushings, then wipe off the surface?

- Maybe not necessary, but you could also lube the races/guides that the flyweights sit in?

Dry graphite is good, but DryMoly is better (dont get it on your hands, wear gloves). I usually do a coat of dry moly, let it dry, then a small squirt of Teflon(PTFE) spray on top for extra 'slipperiness' Just my 2 cents.

(PS if you really want to have the correct belt spacing, check out this site http://www.gokartsupply.com/tcbelts.htm)

 

[FurFlyin]

Idle speed too high?

It may be, I'll lower it and see.

 

[FurFlyin]

May need to take it apart, wire brush everything, apply a small amount of dry graphite, and get it moving freely.

I did that a couple weeks ago. Used the wire brush on a bench grinder. Polished that sucker.

 

[FurFlyin]

There are three flyweights inside the 40 series torque converter. Make sure they haven't flung out of the races/guides.

After cleaning, the only real place that you need to lubricate with dry lubricant is:

1)The flyweights have pins inside them, the springs are connected to these pins. Lubricate the pins. That's it I think... but here are some suggestions

- The shaft that the drivers moveable face slides back and forth on?

- The bronze bushings, spray, rotate the bushings, then wipe off the surface?

- Maybe not necessary, but you could also lube the races/guides that the flyweights sit in?

Dry graphite is good, but DryMoly is better (dont get it on your hands, wear gloves). I usually do a coat of dry moly, let it dry, then a small squirt of Teflon(PTFE) spray on top for extra 'slipperiness' Just my 2 cents.

(PS if you really want to have the correct belt spacing, check out this site http://www.gokartsupply.com/tcbelts.htm)

I'll break it down and lube it. I do remember that even after I cleaned it those brass bushings weren't moving as freely as I thought they would. The belt spacing is 10 1/8". I had to measure that to order the belt. It had a regular V belt on it when I bought it. The belt may be somewhat to blame for the creeping. It's a PIX belt, not a Comet belt. I don't know if they are any good or not.

 

[Blue Finisher]

the last one of those I had to fix was one that a kid had put the belt on backwards and it was holding the drive pulley open after running it. Since those belts are Asymmetric Cogged belts, they need to be put on correctly to function properly. I know the pix and the comet belts are about $15 diff in cost but in the aftermarket you will tend to have a higher instance of imperfectly manufactured parts too.

 

[FurFlyin]

The 40 series is symmetrical. I ordered the belt off ebay as it seems I always get things delivered quicker if ebay is involved, instead of ordering directly from a website. There were no listings for Comet belts when I got that one. Lubing seems to have helped, but it's been cold and the kids haven't rode it much this week.

 

[Don Qui Racing]

dont over tighten belt pulley. meaning dont take out all the slack when adjusting tension. leave it loose. not sure if this has been said. i havnt read all previous posts. i have done it and the kart took off on me when i test fired, that was fun.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Tension? No. Do not attempt to "adjust" a CVT's belt tension. The center to center measurement between the engine and jackshaft must be precise, within 1/8". If in doubt, reference a Comet 40 belt chart.