Torque converter not disengaging

[Mike Godburn]

I recently purchased a Manco Fox for my grandkids. It's been running decently but recently it became stuck in "gear", even at idle. I took the drive and driven pulleys apart and have cleaned everything. Pulley alignment looks good. Although it's much better it still wants to "walk" away even at idle. Bad weight springs? Wrong belt? Any help greatly appreciated.......

 

[TT540]

Can you decrease the idle rpm? Or to put it another way, did you screw in the idle screw any since having it?

 

[Mike Godburn]

I didn't adjust the idle at all. Initially it got "stuck" at the end of a session of riding. Was suddenly just stuck in "gear". After cleaning and reassembly I did notice that if I had the engine in choke it didn't walk. In "run" it does........I plan to change the weight springs because the old ones look spent. Aside from that....... never had one of these before or worked on one sooooo..... the learning curve is steep!

 

[anickode]

Sounds like it might be idling a smidge too fast.

Is the pulley actually squeezing in and grabbing the belt?Torque converters also tend to do that at idle, particularly without the brass slip ring on the driver. It's friction. A broken-in belt will likely do it more than a stiff new belt as well.

 

[bob58o]

Take apart the Driver Unit. The one on the engine crankshaft. Inspect the weights and springs and everything else. Show us the pictures. Clean parts that need cleaning. Replace parts that need replacing. Lube parts that need lube. Dry graphite lube is the stuff I use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9yPHtfJO9w

 

[Mike Godburn]

I did take the drive apart. Cleaned and dry lubed everything. The springs are old and rusty so i am waiting for new ones to arrive. The brassfriction ring is in place. The belt appears fairly new. I have not adjusted the idle yet but most certainly will. I'm totally green novice with karts and learning quickly. Comforting to hear from you all that I'm at least on the right path and haven't fallen off the deep end... thx all

---------- Post added at 11:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 AM ----------

BTW. Cleaned and lubed the driven as well....

 

[Mike Godburn]

Another question I have is where I can download a manual for this kart. Both the kart (if there is one) and the motor.....

 

[itsid]

parts manuals can still be found on americanlandmaster.com
browse to manuals fun karts and pick the model number...
but rarely ever a maintenance manual.

I read you lubed everything.. that's hopefully NOT what you did!
ther must NOT get any lube anywhere near the sheaves..
the only thing that needs lube is the clover hub, and the weights.

the bronze bushing (it's a bushing, not a friction ring!) should be soaked in oil once every year or so
(just cook it in a frying pan for a short while then wipe as much oil off as you can until it feels dry but 'soft')

The driven must dot see any lubricant when assembled
(the single spot where lube is okay is the shaft, which you cannot access without disassembling the sheaves)

So yeah.. not entirely sure what you did, but I hope you have not gotten any lube onto the belt by now, since that's likely irreversible and you might need a new belt

Engine manuals are out there.. for all possible engines manco used over the years..
but again to point you towards the correct one, we need the model number
(of the engine not the kart)

it helps a ton if you post pictures.. we can surely identify the kart visually close enough to point you to the correct manual for it,
and chances are.. seeing the engine the hp rating alone enables us to guess the modelnumber of that close enough to find the manual for you as well.

'sid

 

[Mike Godburn]

I did not lube everything. Misspoken. I took both the drive and driven sheaves apart. Cleaned everything. removed all rust, dirt etc. I lubed the shaft of the drive. No lube got on the outside of any sheaves nor did any get on the belt. I did do some research beforehand and found that caution to be most prominent. Oiling the bushing hadn't been mentioned in other posts so I will certainly look into that. I have new springs now for the drive weights which I will install. The engine is a 169cc.

 

[itsid]

perfect.. just wanted to be sure

the bushing is oil impregnated, that shouldn't wear off too easily (but in hot conditions after a few years of abuse you might want to "refill" the bushing with oil

Sometimes the clover gets stuck in the moveable sheave, make sure yours moves freely
(i.e. drops under its own weight right through)
if not break the edges and remove the burrs if any, then a whiff of dry lube and try again.
that and the weights are the "most sticky" parts of a TC driver..
And the driven snaps back even easier
(if all buttons are in place and it doesn't jump into the next valley that is)

worn weights are worse than weak springs though... that's why you should replace the pack instead of just the springs..
check if you can still feel the wear mark, if not the weights need to be replaced.

Chances are the idle is a hair too high still, so you might want to see if you can turn it down slightly without your engine getting upset

'sid