Torque converter issues

[Abchoppers]

I have a manco single seater with a 6.5 titan engine and torque converter. The kart really wants to take off at just and idle. I don’t believe the idle is too high. It looks like the torque converter grips the belt even at idle. I cleaned and lubed all the parts. Once moving it’s great and fast, it’s just at an idle that it pulls away hard.

Can anyone identify this torque converter? Can’t tell it’s series. It does have an asymmetrical belt and it’s on the correct way. Maybe new belt is needed?
Any suggestions are appreciated

 

[Thepartsguy]

there supposed to be serviced every 5 hours. That means cleaning all areas where there is belt material build up or rust. next would be the bronze 30 series bushing. Is it there? You do know the bushing rides on the pulley and doesn’t spin or spins very very little. and no one mentions the od of the bronze bushing being the id of the kick out pulley. That takes up the space and helps with chatter and erratic shifting not to mention save the belt from riding against a hot spinning pulley. Edit if I had to make a guess there is no bushing.. that means nothing for the belt to sit still at idle on. you will wear uneven spots into your belt with that pulley spinning on it. That will cause erratic shifting.

 

[panchothedog]

Pull the driver clutch back apart, clean with brake parts cleaner. Then sand the
heavy cast center section as well as the two sheaves that grab the belt with
fine 400 grit emory paper. Then clean again with brake parts cleaner and re-
assemble dry. NO LUBE. You can use dry graphite if you want but it is not necessary. Any kind of lube causes it to gum up. It's the worst thing you can do. While you're at it, do the same for the driven clutch. At least clean it up with the brake parts cleaner, and leave dry or graphite. NO lube.

 

[Abchoppers]

there supposed to be serviced every 5 hours. That means cleaning all areas where there is belt material build up or rust. next would be the bronze 30 series bushing. Is it there? You do know the bushing rides on the pulley and doesn’t spin or spins very very little. and no one mentions the od of the bronze bushing being the id of the kick out pulley. That takes up the space and helps with chatter and erratic shifting not to mention save the belt from riding against a hot spinning pulley. Edit if I had to make a guess there is no bushing.. that means nothing for the belt to sit still at idle on. you will wear uneven spots into your belt with that pulley spinning on it. That will cause erratic shifting.

Yes there was a bushing, actually took a pic of it cause I wasn’t sure what it was for lol

 

[Abchoppers]

Pull the driver clutch back apart, clean with brake parts cleaner. Then sand the
heavy cast center section as well as the two sheaves that grab the belt with
fine 400 grit emory paper. Then clean again with brake parts cleaner and re-
assemble dry. NO LUBE. You can use dry graphite if you want but it is not necessary. Any kind of lube causes it to gum up. It's the worst thing you can do. While you're at it, do the same for the driven clutch. At least clean it up with the brake parts cleaner, and leave dry or graphite. NO lube.

My next move, thank you. I did use only graphite after reading about that, but did not clean with brake cleaner.

 

[panchothedog]

Make sure to put the bushing back in also. As explained by thepartsguy, that helps a lot to prevent the kart from creeping at idle. Give it the same treatment as the clutch with sandpaper and cleaner.

 

[madprofessor]

Cleaning seems to be a huge priority. Those centrifugal striations on the face of the driver are a clear indication that at some point someone sprayed a liquid type of lube all over the place. Have you replaced the belt? Petroleum products cry to join up with other petroleum products.

 

[Denny]

Can I see a picture of the secondary shieves on the driven it almost appears as if it is a 20 series and the primary is a 30 series. I would like to see to be sure. Just take a picture with the belt off.

 

[panchothedog]

Yeh MAD
I don't think I have ever seen the clutch parts stained as bad as the ones in the first post. Looks like they are kind of heat treated on there. Still only stains.
Should not affect ability of clutch to function properly.

 

[Abchoppers]

Cleaning seems to be a huge priority. Those centrifugal striations on the face of the driver are a clear indication that at some point someone sprayed a liquid type of lube all over the place. Have you replaced the belt? Petroleum products cry to join up with other petroleum products.

I have new belts on order, thanks

 

[Abchoppers]

Can I see a picture of the secondary shieves on the driven it almost appears as if it is a 20 series and the primary is a 30 series. I would like to see to be sure. Just take a picture with the belt off.

I’ll definitely take pics of that when I’m back in the shop, I don’t have the karts at home. Thanks

 

[Snaker]

I have a manco single seater with a 6.5 titan engine and torque converter. The kart really wants to take off at just and idle. I don’t believe the idle is too high. It looks like the torque converter grips the belt even at idle. I cleaned and lubed all the parts. Once moving it’s great and fast, it’s just at an idle that it pulls away hard.

Can anyone identify this torque converter? Can’t tell it’s series. It does have an asymmetrical belt and it’s on the correct way. Maybe new belt is needed?
Any suggestions are appreciated

The clutch function is the gap/no gap between the belt sides and the drive pulley sheaves.
Gap = clutch disengaged
No gap = clutch engaged
I haven't found a side gap spec out of Comet for these series.
Polaris CVT's are somewhat similar and have a .020" side gap
Sliding the belt to one side and having a snug fit with a credit card is ballpark

The belt also needs to have no tension on the drive pulley or it will drag and rotate the driven.
The second photo seems to show some slack, but make sure.

Can you watch the drive pulley movable sheave to see if its moving before it should?

And the lube, crazy too much, clean that stuff off and inspect/clean the sheaves and belt

 

[Abchoppers]

The clutch function is the gap/no gap between the belt sides and the drive pulley sheaves.
Gap = clutch disengaged
No gap = clutch engaged
I haven't found a side gap spec out of Comet for these series.
Polaris CVT's are somewhat similar and have a .020" side gap
Sliding the belt to one side and having a snug fit with a credit card is ballpark

The belt also needs to have no tension on the drive pulley or it will drag and rotate the driven.
The second photo seems to show some slack, but make sure.

Can you watch the drive pulley movable sheave to see if its moving before it should?

And the lube, crazy too much, clean that stuff off and inspect/clean the sheaves and belt

It seems that after a few seconds of start up I can see the drive pulley move towards the belt slightly and engage, all while it’s still at idle. I’m definitely guilty of spraying way too much graphite dry lube on it, I’m part of that more is always better camp

 

[madprofessor]

graphite dry lube

I might like a spray version of that, at least in moderation and precision. Can you post a link?

 

[Abchoppers]

I might like a spray version of that, at least in moderation and precision. Can you post a link?

Blaster 5.5 oz. Industrial Graphite Dry Lubricant Spray 8-GS - The Home Depot

Blaster Graphite Dry Lubricant is an excellent for extending equipment life and reducing wear. The graphite spray creates a quick drying black film that provides long-lasting lubrication. It's recommended

www.googleadservices.com

 

[madprofessor]

Thanks for the link. At only $5.78, I can't pass it up, ordering a can with some other stuff I need. I like it that it makes a black film.

 

[Denny]

I still want to see a picture of the secondary. I think it may be a 20 series. If so those new belts you ordered won’t work.

 

[Abchoppers]

I still want to see a picture of the secondary. I think it may be a 20 series. If so those new belts you ordered won’t work.

I’ll be in the shop tomorrow afternoon and will take a pic, is secondary the driven clutch or the driver?

 

[Denny]

It is the driven one.

 

[Abchoppers]

I still want to see a picture of the secondary. I think it may be a 20 series. If so those new belts you ordered won’t work.