Torque Converter Help
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r_chez_08
Should be in the shop...
Yup. Get a section of tube the length of your torque converter, 3/4" internal diameter and 1" external diameter. cut 1 x 3/16" keyslot in one side, 1 x 1/4" keyslot in the other. You could use an angle grinder, dremel or a mill to cut the slots.
There are some premade adapters, but they usually encorperate a "stepped" key, to fit into the shaft and clutch. This is no good if your keystock is built into your tc like they usually are.
What model torque converter do you have?
I have made an adapter on a lathe and mill, it works well.
BTW do some searches
There are some premade adapters, but they usually encorperate a "stepped" key, to fit into the shaft and clutch. This is no good if your keystock is built into your tc like they usually are.
What model torque converter do you have?
I have made an adapter on a lathe and mill, it works well.
BTW do some searches
jamyers
Well-known member
Isn't that backwards? As I'm understanding, his engine shaft is 1" OD, the CVT hub has a 3/4" ID, so he'd need to adapt downwards from 1" to 3/4", like this only a non-splined shaft adapter.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/reduce-adapter-0271067
Otherwise, the only thing(s) to do are either have the crank machined down, or get another CVT driven member.
hypothecary
_________________
...or see if a 3/4" pto crank is available to swap in.
I would recommend against an adapter like the one linked to, that'll push your cvt unit away from the engine making it more difficult to mount and keep perfectly straight.
The crank has to be pulled to machine it anyhow and for my application a new crank with desired pto is within a few bucks of the price of the machine work. Of course, a 1" bore driven clutch is probably the cheapest option.
I don't get the part about the gearbox, though.
I would recommend against an adapter like the one linked to, that'll push your cvt unit away from the engine making it more difficult to mount and keep perfectly straight.
The crank has to be pulled to machine it anyhow and for my application a new crank with desired pto is within a few bucks of the price of the machine work. Of course, a 1" bore driven clutch is probably the cheapest option.
I don't get the part about the gearbox, though.
r_chez_08
Should be in the shop...
Oops, sorry for the mistake above.
What motor and tc?
I would buy a new driver, assuming it is the driver that goes on the shaft first, not the gearbox.
Depending on the model, drivers can be had from $70. you could probably sell your current one for $40. $30 is cheaper than a new crank or machine work, an requires less labour.
What motor and tc?
I would buy a new driver, assuming it is the driver that goes on the shaft first, not the gearbox.
Depending on the model, drivers can be had from $70. you could probably sell your current one for $40. $30 is cheaper than a new crank or machine work, an requires less labour.
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