Torque converter fit problem

[Matra V12]

I am trying to install a GTC TC2 torque converter (asymmetrical) on a Tecumseh 10HP engine and got this fitment and misalignment situation.

First, I think the crankshaft is not long enough, 2 3/16" long and leaving only 5/16" protruding to fit the driver Hub.

And, the driver and driven flat sheaves are not aligned as I presume they should be for an asymmetrical torque converter.

I reach tech support at GTC manufacturing and showed theses photos. They say everything is correct as is...

What do you think?

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

No doubt someone with knowledge of such things will chime in. But in the meantime, I must say bravo for some excellent photography to illustrate the situation. Textbook!

 

[2SlickNick]

They should be perfectly aligned. The 5/16 is OK I run mine that short all the time without any problems thus far. Even though they are not perfectly aligned it should still work you might wear through belts a little faster than normal.

I have two of my vehicles where the sheeves are not perfectly aligned and I have not had any issues so far.

 

[itsid]

Wow that shaft is indeed short..

for all I know the predator has the shortest working shaft for a series 30 TC..
that's IIRC 2.5" (or 2.4 *shrugs*)
Anyways.. it's still longer than yours

So, I'm afraid I think your shaft is indeed too short to mount a TC;
since in the end.. the two inner sheaves need to be aligned perfecly..
so you won't even have the 5/16" you're currently having..

Although it's the inner sheave that's actually driven, the outer sheave with the hub is mainly used for the clamping forces...
still it transfers SOME power to the belt, thus it needs to be firmly attached.
And frankly an eighth is nowhere near enough to do so!

But here's one thing you could try:
find an old "blown" engine with a shaft you can cut down (same shaftsize of course)
you'd want a throughhole keyed section long enough to fill the gap
And a key long enough to span all the way on your engine shaft and the cutoff keyed spacer.

Maybe that's enough to have a reliable powertransfer..
maybe it's not and the key will shear the next chance it gets...
but I'd try at least.. still cheaper than to buy a new engine, or even a Tec PTO shaft for that matter.

'sid

PS you can also use a jackshaft length instead of an actual engine shaft.

'sid

 

[2SlickNick]

Take Itsid's advice... Over mine any day.

---------- Post added at 11:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:57 PM ----------

What about getting a longer jack shaft? And putting the sprocket on the outside of the driven unit instead of the inside. Is that an option?

 

[itsid]

Take Itsid's advice... Over mine any day.

Oh, I wouldn't go so far as to say that
If yours works reliable maybe it takes less shaft than I'm (personally) comfortable with;
all I do say however.. IIWM, I'd support the hub the best I can to make sure it's as firmly attached as possible, then hope for the best.
and not the other way around

'sid

 

[KartFab]

The bokeh on that first pic is awesome. Sorry to hear you have a short shaft. As far as I know there is no viagra for engines like that.

 

[2SlickNick]

I just make sure I use loctite and the pilot washer to keep it all in place.

 

[Matra V12]

Thank you all guys!

I think I'm going to get rid of the jackshaft/mountingplate and make a custom jackshaft. This way I can do without the spacer on the crankshaft and recover 9/16''.

Too bad I didn't follow itsid's advice on a previous thread and buy a 40 series TC. Back to square one!

To 2SlickNick, Yes that's a good idea to align the sheaves but I would still have the short crankshaft issue.

To KartFab, f/4 on a full frame. ...And, at least the shaft is hard!

 

[itsid]

. ...And, at least the shaft is hard!

DO NOT WATCH smarter every day 98 on yt!



'sid

 

[2SlickNick]

You don't have to use THAT spacer on the crankshaft. You can use any bushing as long as the back part of the sheath clears Bolt heads.

 

[Matra V12]

You don't have to use THAT spacer on the crankshaft. You can use any bushing as long as the back part of the sheath clears Bolt heads.

True. And, like you suggested, put the sprocket on the outside of the driven unit. With two minimal length spacers alignment could be achieved.