Hi I've just joined this forum because I thought this would be a good place for advice for my first go kart build. I hope it's not a lot to ask if I could have some advice for mounting my engine with a torque converter and jack shaft. I'm no welder but I'm designing the go kart and it's being worked on at the shop as of this moment! The go kart is going to be an 11 hp one seater but I'm new to this stuff and don't know exactly how to setup the jack shaft and torque converter and where to get one! Please respond. It would be greatly appreciated!
torque converter and jack shaft advice. Please help!
- Thread starter wblupton
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exenos
Project Nut
With the 11hp you'll need a 40 series and those can be anywhere from $300 upwards. You could talk to this guy http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=19861
or you could take that 3-500 and buy a bike or sled engine. If you want it to be simple go with the industrial engine and torque converter, or if you want the best bang for your buck go with the bike/sled engine.
or you could take that 3-500 and buy a bike or sled engine. If you want it to be simple go with the industrial engine and torque converter, or if you want the best bang for your buck go with the bike/sled engine.
You can make your own jackshaft. All you really need is a short length of axle which is keyed, 2 pillow blocks, and your sprockets. Mine whick I placed on my minibike is a solid unit, but you get the idea.
A comet 40 series does not have a backplate, so you have to set the correct distance between the driver on the engine and the driven on the jackshaft IN side. You get several belt sizes which correspond to these center to center distances. That is why they must be correct.
Using my second to last pic as an example, a tc would have the driver where my clutch is, and the driven would be where the small JS IN sprocket is. The last pic shows the TC setup.
I hope this helps a bit
A comet 40 series does not have a backplate, so you have to set the correct distance between the driver on the engine and the driven on the jackshaft IN side. You get several belt sizes which correspond to these center to center distances. That is why they must be correct.
Using my second to last pic as an example, a tc would have the driver where my clutch is, and the driven would be where the small JS IN sprocket is. The last pic shows the TC setup.
I hope this helps a bit
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Have a look at the first few posts of this thread. You will see how to make a jackshaft with pillowblocks. They just bolt onto the frame, so no welding
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5461
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5461
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jamyers
Well-known member
Jackshafts are available online (ebay, google shopping), or if you're near a Northern Tools they carry the Azusa jackshaft kits for about $35, but iirc the flanges have to be welded.
I'd find a shaft and sprockets (either at an industrial supply store or online), then go to my nearest bearing supply store and pick up some nice bolt-on pillow-block bearings like in the thread posted above.
One thing to keep in mind is that with a Torque Converter (CVT), the jackshaft mounting will have to be a set distance from the engine's crankshaft, depending on which CVT belt you have or get. If you don't already have a belt you can get...
...and mount your jackshaft accordingly to the 203589 / 8487 belt's specs.
Landuse, I took a look at that thread. I think it may be the solution, but I just remembered how your jack shaft setup was and how it had basically everything on one end (i saw it in your first picture, gears on left side). I'm just wondering if you're able to do that with pillow block bearings and have the torque converter right next to the gear that has the chain that goes to the sprocket. I hope you get what i mean.
Jamyers, thanks so much for the suggestions. In fact I live pretty close to a northern tools store but unfortunately they're getting rid of their go kart supplies so I guess I'll have to look elsewhere online, unless you have any more suggestions.
Jamyers, thanks so much for the suggestions. In fact I live pretty close to a northern tools store but unfortunately they're getting rid of their go kart supplies so I guess I'll have to look elsewhere online, unless you have any more suggestions.
Yes you can.
mckutzy
Well-known member
landuse, thanks for quoting my thread.
OP, Using pillow blocks to make a jackshaft is about the easiest method, the only "down side", It has chains that will need to tensioned some how. They will have to have some movement in there corresponding direction for that or a contact tensioner (ex. a skateboard wheel or Idler sprocket).
with all this said, it will take some space to setup, and depending how the motor is positioned it could be tight to fit with brackets and bolts.
OP, Using pillow blocks to make a jackshaft is about the easiest method, the only "down side", It has chains that will need to tensioned some how. They will have to have some movement in there corresponding direction for that or a contact tensioner (ex. a skateboard wheel or Idler sprocket).
with all this said, it will take some space to setup, and depending how the motor is positioned it could be tight to fit with brackets and bolts.
I agree, it will be tight but I suppose a tensioner would do the trick but I wondering if there are any jack shafts kits that bolt onto the side of the engine that fit a 40 series. I know they make those for 30 series but if they do make them for 40 series, I think it would make the whole thing more compact. I hope you get what I mean.
landuse, thanks for quoting my thread.
No problem. It is a great thread.
Unfortunately the 40 series doesn't have a backplate like the 30 series, and I have never heard of one made. Maybe you can get one made yourself?
I could, maybe, but I think it'd take too long to find someone in my town to make one (and maybe too expensive idk). I may just go with the pillow block jack shaft. There's just not too many people to help me with this kinda stuff where I live but you guys help so much. Thanks for all the GREAT advice!
No problem. Use either this thread or your other one as a "build" log so that we can help you out along the way. Just remember that for a 40 series you need an exact center to center distance, so you should maybe either your engine or the jackshaft adjustable. Thje engine might be easier by using slotted holes on the mount plate.
I am not too sure what the standard slot length is, but I would hazard a guess at around 3/4" or 1". You don't need much. It is just for adjusting
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Doc Sprocket
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I believe the use of a "back plate" mounting system for the Comet 40 is not really an option because of the powerhandling capabilities of the 40. It's rated to 18hp (iirc), and is capable of more. A backplate setup would probably not so well with all that torque.
Hi, sorry, just another question. I'm researching 3/4" jack shafts and I cant find one where the key comes out on it (1/4"). Do I want it like that or should I just go along with the key way that goes into the jack shaft (3/16"). Any suggestions or websites would be great!
mckutzy
Well-known member
The key will correspond to the sprockets/hubs you will get. AFAIK both can come that way.
All you need is a piece of keyed shaft, pillow blocks(with locking collars or setscrews) and sprockets(w/ weld hubs on or one piece sprockets).
All you need is a piece of keyed shaft, pillow blocks(with locking collars or setscrews) and sprockets(w/ weld hubs on or one piece sprockets).
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