Too thin?

[G.W]

Can’t cross gusset it?

I-I-I
I-I-I

sumpthin like that?
Pancho‘s purdy smart, he’ll have an idea.

That was yhe plan, like I said, gussets and cross bracing. I thought you meant from all the way across my swing arm. I was also planning on making the end of the tube flat and wrapping it around the tubing of the swing arm, then welding it. Would that work?

 

[Master Hack]

was also planning on making the end of the tube flat and wrapping it around the tubing of the swing arm, then welding it. Would that work?

l’m hopin yer funnin me!

 

[panchothedog]

Boy, I haven't seen a set of those in 55 years or more. First machine shop I ever worked in, 1965. Shop foreman taught me how to use them. I remember it was kinda tricky. I'm sure I couldn't do it today. He said these are for just getting a close idea. To be sure use your micrometer.
Hey Mr. G. W. If you are going to dive into builds, like the one you are doing now, you really should own a set of calipers. The ones with a dial indicator, that any fool can read ( like me) can be had for around $15 at the good old Chinese tool store, harbor freight. Also, a tip for you. You said you couldn't find your tape measure. Blamed it on being scatter brained. That's bad for a guy that likes to fabricate and build stuff. Put your tools in the same place every time as soon as you are done using it. BE ANAL ABOUT IT. You'll never hunt for a tool again, because it will be right where it BELONGS. Not where you left it.

 

[panchothedog]

No, making it flat will delete ALL the strength of the tube. Keeping the 4 sides intact is what gives it strength.

 

[G.W]

No, making it flat will delete ALL the strength of the tube. Keeping the 4 sides intact is what gives it strength.

What I meant was cut all but the top of the tube, then wrap them flat top part of the tube around and weld it.

 

[Master Hack]

Just cut it square and weld it. Like a T

 

[Denny]

Tubing is not too thin, you’re too fat! What? Wrong forum?
Never mind!

 

[Snaker]

................................. Harbor Fright ...............


View attachment 140284

Those things can be handy if used within their limits.
Certainly not much for accuracy but still better than a tape measure.
I had the dial and digital for use when needed, but I've got 4-5 of these floating around as well.
I keep in tool boxes, truck, kitchen drawer, etc.
Maybe the most common usage is to measure bolt heads and nuts so I don't make 3 trips to the tool box for a wrench.

The SAE side is in 1/128 inch scale, which sucks slightly going smaller than the 1/32 sizes, but the other side is mm
Metric and Vernier calipers are a perfect match and I use that side when possible.

You do want to check the "zero" and compensate, some are farther out than others.

 

[electraglide]

Those things can be handy if used within their limits.
Certainly not much for accuracy but still better than a tape measure.
I had the dial and digital for use when needed, but I've got 4-5 of these floating around as well.
I keep in tool boxes, truck, kitchen drawer, etc.
Maybe the most common usage is to measure bolt heads and nuts so I don't make 3 trips to the tool box for a wrench.

The SAE side is in 1/128 inch scale, which sucks slightly going smaller than the 1/32 sizes, but the other side is mm
Metric and Vernier calipers are a perfect match and I use that side when possible.

You do want to check the "zero" and compensate, some are farther out than others.

My reply was for those who don't have a caliper and can't find their tape. Good observation Snaker and you do bring up some points to consider. This HF caliper is cheap, fairly accurate I'd say but not durable. Not to be used for precision measuring ... ie ... 0.001mm. Not to be stored in your tool box for sure. But it's better than eyeballing and guessing. If you're gonna weld something don't guess. Do it right the first time. A $2 tool can save you time and money many times over. Tip: Put scotch tape over the printed side cause it will wear off just by your sweat off your hands eventually.

 

[G.W]

So this is my plan. Cut along the blue line and set the tube over the swing arm tubing and weld. What I was thinking is taking the extra material and wrapping it around d the chassis tubing. Is this a bad idea?

 

[electraglide]

I had to do this ...... it was like watching a movie at the Imax while sitting in the front row.

 

[panchothedog]

Yes, that is a bad idea. Cut all ends square. Do like Master Hack told you in post # 26. He is easily the most experienced and knowledgeable welder on this forum. As soon as you start opening up the tube you ruin its strength. You keep saying you are going to wrap it around the frame. Weld it too the frame where it
intersects. It's 1/8" steel, not spaghetti. You aren't going to wrap it around anything, and that won't add any strength.

 

[Master Hack]

Is this wrap around thing going around round tubing? If so, you can easily notch the tubing with a hole saw. Get one that matches the diameter of the round tubing. You’ll end up with a nice fitting piece that will weld in nicely and be way stronger.
bonus: it’ll be much easier.

 

[G.W]

Yes it is going onto round tubing. I'm going try to find a hole saw. I started noticing it with an angle grinder because I forgot hole saws existed.

Would it be a good idea to also gusset the mount?

 

[Thepartsguy]

If you look off to your right there’s the local crazy pushin 40hp through a piece of cut up square tube...

 

[Master Hack]

Yeah, that's beautiful!
That's the kind of crap we are trying to avoid!

 

[Functional Artist]

1. Yup, I agree, it's soo much easier to do...most anything, if you can actually find the tools

2. Your standard open ended wrench set can be used as measuring tools

Like if a 1" wrench fits over a piece of pipe (kinda snuggly)
...then, you can be pretty sure that it is a piece of 1" dia. pipe that your "measuring"

3. For an example of frame construction
...& proper "factory" tube joining methods
...take a look at how most bicycle frames, are welded together

They have nice-n-tight notches
...like where the "goose neck" connects
...& up under the seat post
...& even where the crank "tube" connects

4. Gussets are good for strengthening junctions
...but, they shouldn't have to "make up" for a poor designed or sloppy junction

 

[G.W]

I've never done any chassis fabrication before, so thanks for the tips guys

 

[Master Hack]

you look off to your right there’s the local crazy pushin 40hp through a piece of cut up square tube

Sorry man! My remark about your project might have been a bit harsh.
l would feel better about it if you could fix those welds though.
i’ve done some sketchy things,in the early years, and found out it is usually best to do it right the first time cuz the second time is usually not purdy!

 

[Thepartsguy]

Sorry man! My remark about your project might have been a bit harsh.
l would feel better about it if you could fix those welds though.
i’ve done some sketchy things,in the early years, and found out it is usually best to do it right the first time cuz the second time is usually not purdy!

don’t church it up it’s 40hp through pure sketch with zero brakes If I can find the right pulley the buggy’s a wrap. pillow blocks the right driven off eBay and some locking collars and this hopefully one day can power my streaker.