I’m planning on building a off-road go kart called the tarantula from spider karts. I’m a little confused here about wheel hubs and tire size, looking for some experience. I would like to use a 4 hole wheels all around. Planning on 8x7 wheel in rear and 5x5 3/8 in the front. My problem is can I have a wheel hub on the front spindle that spins free? Also how does the hub on the rear secure to the live axle? For the motor I’m doing a predator 212 that I have a stage 1 on already with a torque converter and a 60 tooth sprocket. With this will I be able to run a 18x10-8 tire in the rear fine or even a 20x10-8? I was also thinking about a 16x6.5-8 tire in the front and was wondering if this will be able to steer fine? Any help is appreciated
Tire and wheel hub help please
- Thread starter Kaden02
- Start date
Karttekk
Well-known member
Why not contact the company with your concerns? They would know best I would think.
spidercarts.com
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spidercarts.com
They do not reply, I have tried multiple times. That’s why I have come to this forumWhy not contact the company with your concerns? They would know best I would think.
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But I think these questions are pretty general to karts not really company specific anyway
Karttekk
Well-known member
"Also how does the hub on the rear secure to the live axle?"
Depends on the axle. These wheels slip onto an axle with a keyway and key then get secured with a lock nut on the end of the axle: https://www.gopowersports.com/6-live-axle-wheel-3-4-bore/
These hubs slip on the the axle and get secured with a locknut then the wheel fastens to the hub with lug nuts: https://hammerheadperformance.com/rear-wheel-hub-black
Usually front wheels have high speed bearings in them and ride on a spindle but I'm sure there are other options.
Depends on the axle. These wheels slip onto an axle with a keyway and key then get secured with a lock nut on the end of the axle: https://www.gopowersports.com/6-live-axle-wheel-3-4-bore/
These hubs slip on the the axle and get secured with a locknut then the wheel fastens to the hub with lug nuts: https://hammerheadperformance.com/rear-wheel-hub-black
Usually front wheels have high speed bearings in them and ride on a spindle but I'm sure there are other options.
Karts of Kaos
the many mowers guy
I am building the same kart and I am going with the largest #41 cha sprocket I could find. which was 66t and with that I am geared for about 30 with a governed engine. I believe that the plans specify a 60T for 18" tires.I am planing to go with a bigger engine so that's why the gering change.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Kaden, I know very little about tires that go on single-piece rims, but attaching pics of what the largest split-rims (6") look like with 4.10/3.50 x 6 tires 12" tall look like on a big kart, way too small. Never going to burn up the CVT ("torque converter") clutch though, running a 60-tooth rear for a 5:1 ratio.
Note the oversize for now 9" sprocket guards. That's because I was guessing for the need to upsize to a 72-tooth 6:1 ratio later, after kart weighed in at 520 lbs., and seeing that taller tires might be called for.
They're run by a Predator 212 hotrodded up to 15+ hp. Hopefully getting first full test run soon, anticipate boiling the tires.
Note the oversize for now 9" sprocket guards. That's because I was guessing for the need to upsize to a 72-tooth 6:1 ratio later, after kart weighed in at 520 lbs., and seeing that taller tires might be called for.
They're run by a Predator 212 hotrodded up to 15+ hp. Hopefully getting first full test run soon, anticipate boiling the tires.
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I went and ordered all my parts and have most of the frame made up, minus the tabs for gas and brake lines along with side panels. I went with 18x10-8 cst ambush in the rear with 8x7 one piece rims on 4x4 hubs. Along with 18x6.5-8 Carlisle Snowhogs in the front with 8x5.75 rims on 4x4 hubs with a 5/8 bore. The rear axle is 45” wide and with the tires on is 50” outside to outside. Went pretty loose on following the original plans and made the whole cart 4” wider and 4” longer. It’s a one seater off-road with 1” 14 gauge square tubing. Used almost 3 20’ sticks. For the power plant I have a predator hemi 212 with the following mods, custom exhaust, performance air intake, new carb jet, 22lb valve springs, arc billet flywheel, and governor removal. Hoping to stay around 5k-5500 rpm in the top end because of the stock internals. Wanting to get about 10-15 hp. Mating it with a 30 series torque converter and a 60t sprocket with a #41 chain. I’ll update when I take the first ride. I’m betting the kart itself without me in in will weight around 300 pounds all said and done. I don’t have any pictures, I’ll be sure to get some
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
If that performance intake adapter is the engineered venturi type as opposed to just a flat spacer with a straight hole through it, and the main carb jet is .036", and that custom exhaust doesn't have a restrictive muffler on it, then you've probably already got at least 10 hp.
You could lose it all though, first time you floor it and the chain jumps off. Those 22 lb. valve springs (like mine) with a billet flywheel will allow that motor to suddenly wring out way more than 5500 rpm, which means the oil splash arm on that stock connecting rod can snap off, ruin the motor.
Good for you on the flywheel when you put in heavy valve springs. Stock springs will float from 5200-5500 rpm, keeping it from over revving. Spin it up well beyond like mine's built for and the stock cast iron flywheel can explode and kill you. Chunks of iron passing thru the housing and thru your meatsack like crap thru a goose.
You saved your own life, now save the motor's life. Get a billet rod, very very happy with my own ARC rod, get a INCH/lb. (not FOOT/lb.) torque wrench, and follow ALL the instructions to the letter.
You could lose it all though, first time you floor it and the chain jumps off. Those 22 lb. valve springs (like mine) with a billet flywheel will allow that motor to suddenly wring out way more than 5500 rpm, which means the oil splash arm on that stock connecting rod can snap off, ruin the motor.
Good for you on the flywheel when you put in heavy valve springs. Stock springs will float from 5200-5500 rpm, keeping it from over revving. Spin it up well beyond like mine's built for and the stock cast iron flywheel can explode and kill you. Chunks of iron passing thru the housing and thru your meatsack like crap thru a goose.
You saved your own life, now save the motor's life. Get a billet rod, very very happy with my own ARC rod, get a INCH/lb. (not FOOT/lb.) torque wrench, and follow ALL the instructions to the letter.