Tight TC belt?

[bob58o]

Can’t use that bearing. The movable sheave slides over that bushing. If something with more diameter than the bushing is tween the sheaves, it can’t close.

See ../ imagine that alternator pulley is your idler bearing. It makes the driver unit unusable and useless.

 

[Skort]

I dunno, this is I guess how Coleman KT-196/Realtree RTK200's come? Bought it new about 6 weeks ago from Tractor Supply, so it's not somebody's homebuild. It's hard to google exactly what the OEM equipment is here.

 

[bob58o]

No way. Get your money back.
The bearing spins on the shaft and the driver unit cannot close. If longer belt was on it, I suspect you would permanently be in neutral.

 

[Master Hack]

Maybe you should consider replacing the whole TC? Start fresh with known good parts. that thing has been molested.

 

[Snaker]

No way. Get your money back.
The bearing spins on the shaft and the driver unit cannot close. If longer belt was on it, I suspect you would permanently be in neutral.

That would actually be a good thing for the OP to check.
Does the drive pulley movable sheave have a big enough center hole to slide over that bearing?
If so, then the CVT might be some China concoction and require a special size belt.

 

[Snaker]

I dunno, this is I guess how Coleman KT-196/Realtree RTK200's come? Bought it new about 6 weeks ago from Tractor Supply, so it's not somebody's homebuild. It's hard to google exactly what the OEM equipment is here.

So you bought the machine new?
And the machine worked, at least for a while?

Take a look and see if the drive pulley movable sheave can slide over that bearing

 

[bob58o]

So you bought the machine new?
And the machine worked, at least for a while?

Take a look and see if the drive pulley movable sheave can slide over that bearing

On my 30 series, you got about 30mm

 

[Skort]

Odd... I am obviously a newbie to these kinds of things, but it has been working okay and has been ridden for 5 hours or so until the original belt burnt out. It would be much easier for me to try and fix it w/ a new part than to return it, since the store is 90 minutes away. maybe I should replace the whole thing?

 

[bob58o]

Odd... I am obviously a newbie to these kinds of things, but it has been working okay and has been ridden for 5 hours or so until the original belt burnt out. It would be much easier for me to try and fix it w/ a new part than to return it, since the store is 90 minutes away. maybe I should replace the whole thing?

See how this part of the driver unit slides over the bushing…. This way the movable sheave can slide closer to the other sheave and start applying friction to the belt. If it can’t close all the way, the belt won’t grab properly, it will slip and burn, and you will never be able to shift into “high gear” unless the belt they provide is much wider than a standard 30 series belt to account for the thickness of that bearing.

 

[Skort]

See how this part of the driver unit slides over the bushing…. This way the movable sheave can slide closer to the other sheave and start applying friction to the belt. If it can’t close all the way, the belt won’t grab properly, it will slip and burn, and you will never be able to shift into “high gear” unless the belt they provide is much wider than a standard 30 series belt to account for the thickness of that bearing.

Yeah, makes sense. I am away from it until next weekend so can’t look but in the meantime have ordered a (normal 30 series) replacement driver, so we’ll see how that works out. In terms of aligning the driver and the driven, is that typically done with spacers, or is there some kind of adjustable threading?

 

[bob58o]

In order to align I use a combo of bushing and washers.

3/4” washers on the crankshaft are a little sloppy. I made the through hole in 5/8” washers a little bigger to slide on the crank. They fit a bit more snuggly.

there is also a bushing style spacer that comes with TAV kits.

 

[Thepartsguy]

You cannot space the driver with washers that are bigger then the hole in the t/q backing plate. It will turn your 30 series into a crank puller. they have to be smaller and slip inside the backing plate hole up against the crank taper.

 

[bob58o]

I don’t believe this kart utilizes a backing plate. The jackshaft is mounted to the kart.

 

[bob58o]

Just try to get that bearing off then investigate.

 

[Skort]

Well, this is interesting. Explains the bearing and the tight belt:

30 Series Driver 3/4" bore with Bearing (9.500.001MB200)

The 30 Series Driver with a 3/4" bore and bearing is a high-quality component designed for go-kart enthusiasts and professionals alike. This driver features a durable construction that can withstand tough racing conditions and frequent use. It is engineered to fit 30 Series Torque Converters and...

www.gopowersports.com

 

[bob58o]

Interesting. I haven’t seen that before, but I’ve I haven’t look for parts in like 4 years or so.

Im still not sure if it works right. The whole thing may be altered.

I think GPS has decent customer service. I would call them and ask about it. I don’t see how the sheaves can move together. The sheaves need to be basically all the way together for the TAV to fully shift.

Maybe this model can slide over the bearing??? It just doesn’t seem like it should work very well, but neither do I… so

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Well, this is interesting. Explains the bearing and the tight belt:

30 Series Driver 3/4" bore with Bearing (9.500.001MB200)

The 30 Series Driver with a 3/4" bore and bearing is a high-quality component designed for go-kart enthusiasts and professionals alike. This driver features a durable construction that can withstand tough racing conditions and frequent use. It is engineered to fit 30 Series Torque Converters and...

www.gopowersports.com

It's possible, it could be used as a speed limiter, not allowing it to shift into high.

I'm still concerned about the belt dust getting into the bearing.

I wouldn't purchase it.

Jus buy a regular 30 series, and if needed, use the throttle stop screw for speed limiting.

 

[Skort]

Yeah I ordered one with the bronze idler (and a couple of spare idlers), they will be easier to replace if nothing else

 

[Skort]

Okay, update: I installed the new driver, it worked great for one lap, and then I turned the thing off, my daughter got in, and now the clutch is not engaging the wheels. So I must have screwed something up here. I have a video of the clutch action. Possibly an alignment problem? Is it the inside edges of the pulleys that need to be aligned? There are close but not exact.

 

[Skort]

The beveled side of the "splined hub" is facing inwards, which I think is correct because it meets the beveled side of the belt? One thing I don't really understand is, when the RPMs increase, what are the belt teeth engaging with on the driver? They seem to be slipping over the moveable face, which seems natural since they are riding way up on that and the hub is nowhere near the belt.