Tight TC belt?

Skort

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Hello,
I have a newish RTK200 and installed a replacement belt myself. I ordered a 203589/5959, which I believe is the right size for this unit (which I understand is a series 30). It was very difficult to get the belt on after removing the drive pulley, unlike the videos I watched, and there is no slack. Now that it’s on, the wheels want to engage even at low idle, and the engine stalls out unless the wheels are jacked up. My sense is that it is binding even in the idle position due to the tension, but I’m not sure what to do about it. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
IMG_0515.jpeg
 

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BrownStainRacing

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Added to original post
The 589 belts are for 6" driven with the plate, t/c 's.

Measure the driven diameter, there is only a 6" and 7" for the 30 series.

Then measure center to center and see what belt will fit.

Here some good info.
 

redflash

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From image 0510 its obviously misaligned ( crooked for you people down south). That's chewing up the sides of the belt a lot
look at the aforementioned chart/take your measurements, and buy ONLY...a COMET belt. The chinese belts on amazon are absolute crap and won't last a week. two problems...A wrong belt.....and pulleys are not in perfect alignment.

Da redflash
 

Skort

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From image 0510 its obviously misaligned ( crooked for you people down south). That's chewing up the sides of the belt a lot
look at the aforementioned chart/take your measurements, and buy ONLY...a COMET belt. The chinese belts on amazon are absolute crap and won't last a week. two problems...A wrong belt.....and pulleys are not in perfect alignment.

Da redflash
@redflash, thanks. "Misaligned" meaning the two sides of the pulley are not parallel, or meaning, or meaning the driven pulley is not aligned with the drive pulley? I'm guessing you mean the second, since the picture makes it look like the belt is moving off to the right, but I think that's the camera angle. Here's another picture from straight on, if that's any help.
 

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bob58o

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I’ve installed belts that seemed very tight. Made it very difficult to walk my mini bike against the compression of the engine. I believe after a break-in period for the belt, it fixed itself. Or maybe I put some fire to it?

I have also slotted the holes on the backplate on one so I could slightly adjust the belt tension.

Ah, I see no backplate.
Can the engine slide back anymore? Are we fighting chain tension vs belt tension?

Do you have the copper spinny bushing that helps the belt rotate freely on when driver unit is not engaged?
 

Skort

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Looking at the pic in post, #1 the belt is too short and the copper spinny bushing is missing.
Hmm, I will check on the bushing. As best I can tell from the diameter and center measurements, I have the right belt.
 

Skort

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Took off the belt again. The spinner is clearly there but also looks deformed and is frozen in place. This explains the wheels spinning, but I'm not sure how that happened. Is belt tension enough to have deformed a metal part (even a soft one?). That and heat, maybe.
[Edit] Or, is that the bearing and the bushing goes around that?

IMG_0517.jpeg
 
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bob58o

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Those bushings don’t last very long in my experience. They need replacing every so often. The Chinese ones are bronze I think. They used to come in 3 packs for a slight discount.
 

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Snaker

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Doing some guessing here.
I zoomed on img 0514 and noticed a couple things.
There is a mile of side gap between the drive sheaves and belt.
And quite a gap along the in side of the belt within the pulley
So I think that the belt isn't any where near its proper disengaged position in the drive.
I think its resting on that large diameter bearing and sitting way higher in the pulley than it should be and taking up the belt slack.

That bearing looks similar to some snowmobile drive pulley idlers, maybe some one put the wrong parts together
 

BrownStainRacing

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Seems like belt dust would eventually lock that bearing down.

I would order a cheapo new 30 series driver, without that bearing.

If you can get that bearing off, it might solve your problem.
 

bob58o

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The belt would need to be a wee bit longer with the idler bearing installed (provided that idea works) because the OD of the bearing in going to be larger than the bronze bushing.
OD of bronze bushing is 1.25”.
What’s OD of that bearing? 2.25”? 2.5”? If 2.5” the belt would need to be 2” longer.
 

Master Hack

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Is that bearing thing something someone ghetto fabbed up? I‘ve only seen the bushings. havent seen that many, well ok a few, or maybe less. Just looks ghetto….
If those bearings wern’t in there the belt would probably be right.
 
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gokartdave

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That is some kind of bearing mess I've never seen before. Clutches do look misaligned. Also check the hole location of your spring. The r.p.m. take off changes depending on the hole location.
 
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