Tecumseh 6hp governor removal question

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J.S.@SMS

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Can anyone, definitively, tell me if a Tecumseh OHH60 rod can survive valve float? I've heard people say that these engines are junk, and that the rods are very weak, and I've heard some people say that the only major problems are the carburetors. I would like to get rid of the governor in my engine so that I can run a Mikuni, rather than the Tecumseh carb, but I don't want my engine to blow up.

Also, can anyone give me any suggestions on how to cut out a cereal box gasket?
 

zanegrey

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imo.. if you are using the stock car and bypassing the gov then valve float is probably not going to happen.

making a gasket from a box is a matter of trial and error.
trace and cut .. mark holes .. use a pencil or drill them out...
 

Jhoppe

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I have toyed with removing the governor on my ohh60 as well. It is my understanding that it will run like that to valve float, but will cause a lot of wear on the internals. More so on a tecumseh than a Briggs or a predator due to design and materials used. I haven't found anyone who has actually done it short of one fellow who polished the rods and just swore that was enough to run ungoverned. He even used a mild cam and valve springs. That would be really pushing your luck. I picked up a predator so maybe I will remove the governor on the 100% stock tec and just run it and get back to you all.
 

itsid

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Tecumseh have been high quality products for the most part.
finicky carbs are basically all there is to complain about.
Personally I never heard of a crappy con rod

Sure any engine can fail for one reason or another..
highly compressed engines need a stiffer con rod than stock compression engines.
fresh bearings and tight tolerances (conrod!) are safer to run than sloppy tolerances or seized bearings.
a dropped on concrete cast part can have a hair fracture you are unable to see with the naked eye which will kick you the first chance it gets.
.. but that's true for exactly every engine out there.

Apart from such Tecs are -if well maintained in and out-
as reliable as a OHV Briggs or a Robin Subaru .. a Kohler or maybe even a Honda.
(way more reliable than a Predator or any chinese clone!)

spare parts are terribly expensive and carbs are unfortunately prone to gum up quickly and thoroughly.

I don't have a Tecumseh OHV manual at hand atm
but if I find one I'll link it so you can check wear on all parts
to see for yourself if you need any new internals or should avoid adding stress to it's internals atm.

and keep in mind: increasing compression is as bad or worse than adding rpms.
valve float or not a higher compressed engine can have a quickly failing con rod
if bad comes to worse.

Cereal gasket.. stamp ink! Ink the sealing surface, press on the unprinted side of the cereal cardboard and cut as close as possible (drilling holes is not as good as hole punches but better than cutting them with a knife)

'sid
 

Hellion

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I think the engine'll be fine, just as any other OHV: valve flutter before any engine internals go haywire. I'd say get one of those cheap Chinese tachometers and keep the revs no higher than 4500 just to give your engine a tad bit more longevity.

The anti-Tecumseh bias is pervasive and undeserved for the most part. Most people have experience with used and abused engines and you practically have to be a small engine genius to bring a junkyard engine back to life. Tec carburetors are very sensitive to substandard fuel as well.


...Also, can anyone give me any suggestions on how to cut out a cereal box gasket?

Take your side cover and lay it over a unfolded cereal box and trace it with a fresh #11 X-Acto blade or a pencil. If pencil, cut it out with sharp scissors taking care to maintain a width that matches the engine block. Use a hole punch for the bolt holes.

You can also use something like card stock or a manila folder?

Maybe the addition of an aerosol spray gasket maker for maximum seal would also help.
 
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J.S.@SMS

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Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was looking for. And I have had experience with attempting to clean some of these carbs, failing, and paying $27 for a new one. Which is why I was thinking of getting a 22mm Mikuni. It's a better carb all around, and it may improve the performance. I'm also thinking of a straight pipe.
 

itsid

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Here you go
a OHH60 covering workshop manual.

check your internals against the engine specs and you can tell how worn they are and if or if not you need to take care of that.

Once your engine matches all specs I bet you have a long lasting engine even with removed governor ;)

'sid
 

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  • TECUMSEH-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-OHH50-65-OHHSK50-130-OHV11-OHV17-OVM120-OVRM40-675-OVRM120-OVXLC.pdf
    3.1 MB · Views: 51

Hellion

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I'll give thanks in advance from all of us who can now read the workshop manual you have provided. Thanks itsid.

I know next to nothing about the OHV Tecs. :thumbsup:
 
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