TC drive sprocket

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bocanegramusic

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Well I don't know if you've read my dilemma....but I DO need to change my gearing. In any typical kart, I would agree...but this one....is a bit on the special side 😑
 
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bocanegramusic said:
Well I don't know if you've read my dilemma....but I DO need to change my gearing. In any typical kart, I would agree...but this one....is a bit on the special side 😑
Click to expand...

Ive (for the most part) read your dilemma and am sympathetic to your issue (hence my reply). Im not attempting to burst any bubbles... but the 'design' of the setup you have is 'functional' but to 'alter' it, looks to be a difficult to find/unsafe endeavor. The braking system you have is fine for the speed your traveling now... any faster and an upgraded is recommended/needed. As Sid mentioned, no weight has been posted on here of this kart, so a 'reasonable' gearing is gonna be hard to voluntarily give/let alone 'find'... so few will reply.

IMGHO... if you have access to a welder (person or the tool), and can scrounge up roughly 150~200$... Id completely remove the entire drive train off that thing and build a 'lighter'/'safer'/more reliable/ well known one, and save yourself the head/heart ache of it all... unless the build has some sorta sentimental quarrels w/ altering it... then I understand. That what Id suggest is taking that 150~200$ and hitting up you local area CL/type site and get another kart... if your wanting to travel 30mph safer. Or finding another kart w/ a lighter/safer/more reliable/well known rearend.

I know, I know... "That's easy for 'you' to say..." and you're right, it IS easy for me to say, but I say it cause its true not cause I dont think youll do it. Plus, you'd get more reliable/understandable replies than you are now... not saying Sids are unreliable/incomprehensible... but even Ive confused myself reading afew of his explanations... especially the ones that have letters inplace of #'s w/ a string of possibilities/probabilities... those always throw 'me' off... but they're 99.5% of the time precise (if he's given enough info... what a nerd :roflol:!)
 
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bocanegramusic

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I guess the only sentiment would be, I got the thing for free. Someone put this together....and it's pretty awesome! But with a few flaws. I do agree about the braking. She needs a new brake band and I have a pretty good plan to remount it.
The buggy weights about 250-300 lbs. It has a full roll cage.
I do agree that this is an unusual setup. But for an off road buggy, I thought it was perfect. The rear diff is geared low so to turn the wheels, the engine works less. Am I wrong? So I just need to change/figure out, what I need to to do. I don't have 200$ to change the rear end, but I do have about 50$ to buy a gear and a new brake band 😁
 

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bocanegramusic

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I understand that, I guess what I'm trying to say is, it's like you have the bicycle in high gear, and it's easy to maintain 15 mph. If you had it in low gear, maintaining is hard. Well, that's the way I think of it...haha. I don't even know if it makes sense....let alone, myself. 😓
 
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wrong way around....

high gear (low number ratio HIGH speed)
low gear (high number ratio LOW speed)

low gear much easier to push (for legs or engines alike)

once at speed, high gear might be easier (lower rpms...again legs or engines)
but to get there you need the low gear first

'sid
 
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bocanegramusic

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I guess whAt I'm trying to say is, the engine works less to get to, and maintain 15mph because of the gearing. So increasing the tooth on the torque converter, shouldn't make the buggy go slower or stall out. Right?
 
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bocanegramusic

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There is a happy medium, and I really believe it's at a 16 tooth. Calculation wise, if the diff is a 6 to 1, how FAST would I go at a 16 tooth? 28 or so?
 
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Ok, so it is a 5/8 bore...but whoever put it together, decided to do it in reverse. It is a reverse 3/16 key way.
 

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bocanegramusic

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Question....of I get a b type sprocket, 5/8 bore with 3/16 keyway....and put 3 or 4 washers on the opposite end of the hubless side to keep it from rubbing....wouldn't that would the same??
 
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very few type C sprockets come with a "key".. reason is simple:
that's the first thing to shear in case of a failure.. akeystock is easier to replace..
also it's easier to broach a keyway than to "not drill a key" ;)

And no, you cannot just add washer to a B Type sprocket, the collar is too thick, you need to shave it down on one side then add a single matching spacer on the other side to make it a good C Type replacement.

Okay.. we turn in circles...

IF the earth were flat we would be accelerating up with roughly 9.81m/s...

fact is, it's not, and as long you don't know what the actual ratio of your diff is, everything else is pointless I'm afraid

So, go measure it!!

Lift the left rear wheel (right still on the floor or LOCKED)
remove the chain,
turn the wheel until the valve is on the very bottom!
Now strap something heavy to the wheel (make sure it fits between wheel and floor)
turn the wheel slightly and let go...

when it stops swinging back and forth
call that ZERO!

NOW, mark one tooth of the sprocket and make a matching mark
on the frame or diff housing. (make it bright and clearly visible)
slowly turn the wheel exactly ONE rotation
(carefull the weight wants to take over after 180° ;))

count the full rotations of the sprocket, when you're conviced the wheel made a full rotation let go and count the remainder (offset teeth in regards to your marking)

let us know what number you came up with

'sid
 
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In looking at that rear end again I believe it may be a old Harley Davidson or Columbia/Par Car. What about shaving the teeth off the small sprocket on a lathe and having a 16 tooth or so sprocket bored out and then welded to the smaller one, I'd bet that would work for ya. ;)

Denny
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