TC belt on a Dingo IX main problem so far

[bindercrazy]

I bought this Go Kart the other day at a garage sale and the owner said it needed a few things like old gas and a few tires in the front but still holds air. I got it home and wanted to see exactly i had to fix and what it did. It started right up but ran a little ruff so i drained the gas, blew the carb all out, checked the bowl and changed the dirty filter. New gas and ran good. Vangaurd 9 hp B/S. Took off for a test ride and the belt did a lot of smoking when sitting. The belt after 5 minutes of ride time was too thin to make the Kart go. I bought a replacement belt from NAPA and they ordered a belt and i picked it up today. Says Replaces comet 203591 3/4 x 29.28" 7-078144. My original belt said Manco 6814df. I put on the new belt had to take the Clutch off and spread the jack shaft to get the belt way deep to get the clutch back on.
When i started it it wanted to go then and didn't sit still even holding it. It acted like it was to tight and was very hard to restart because the tires where trying to turn too. I got it going, jumped on very fast, took off and was flying. It worked great but the breaks didnt stop it very well because the belt being either too tight or clutch not turning free in the middle. After 2 trips down the road full throttle and about 5 laps around the yard my belt was frayed on the edges and strings hanging from both sides. The clutch and Jack shaft pulley are both rusty from sitting. I sanded the clutch and got about 75% of the rust off but still not shinny smooth. After running it for a bit the clutch is a little better but my $52 belt from NAPA is warn on the edges and frayed. Can anybody help me out with this before this belt is toast.
Thanks
Dave

 

[Half-breeder]

Need pics of the other side of the driven too...

but my guess is it needs a work over/overhaul badly. the sheaves alone need to be made smooth... no telling whatelse is wrong.

 

[bindercrazy]

So both sides of the clutch (Sheaves) need to be smooth. I can do that it will just take some time. The sleeve in the middle was a little dry so i put some lube down the sides and worked it in a bit and it started to sit at idle then the clutch engaged while at idle and you had to hold it from taking off. Where can i find info for a cleaning up and what to look for. Ill try youtube later and see what i can find. worse comes to worse ill buy the whole TC kit and replace if it cant be fixed. The belts are not cheap.
What other side of the driven do you mean. The Jackshaft pulley?
Thanks
Dave

 

[bindercrazy]

Clutch Sleeve shot.

Here is a big problem as far as i can see. This sleeve just ate the belt so no belt till this is rebuilt or replaced.

 

[bindercrazy]

I found some real good videos on rebuilding or cleaning your TC. Very useful and the driven needs cleaning a lot more than the drive because i thought it was more important that the driven be clean. Thats why ya don't think you will hurt the team. LOL. Anyways could you tell me if this is a series 30 or 40 TC so I can order the right parts. I watched a video on it but i wasn't 100 % sure i was going with the 30 series. So you where right and it needs a total over haul after watching the video.
Thanks for your input.
Dave

 

[chancer]

Go to kartfab.com and look for his video on how to take care of the TC.

 

[Half-breeder]

Your driver looks like its a 40... no tellin what the driven is yet... still need pics of the other side of it...

 

[bindercrazy]

Yeah I took apart the driver and its a 40. I came in because I smelt a very strong odor of skunk so me and dog went inside for a while. The driver was very gummy and dirty inside so I need to get the bronze sleeve/ spacers for the belt to ride on. The rest I think just needs cleaning and dry lube. I'll take a picture of both sides of the driven to see what it is. I thank you all for your help and patients. I'll catch on lol just new to me. I tell you what though I haven't gone that fast in a go kart before so I was pretty impressed. The neighbor came up on me in his truck I think he knows how fast I was going. Felt like 40+ for sure lol. Nice and smooth even with my bald front tires.

 

[bindercrazy]

Pics of the driven

Here is the pics of the driven if these help at all. I dont know anything about the driven except spring color lol.
Thanks again
Dave

 

[KartFab]

2 problems
1) rust sheaves cut into belts/fray it. Clean sheaves with wire wheel also other things you can fix up inside (google "how to clean a 40 series torque converter") my vid pops up
2you probably were sold the wrong belt. Sorry your salesman must suck. All 40 series belts have a 7/8" top width diameter.

I would assume the '3/4' you quoted in the first post is for 3/4" top width? The top width for the 40 series is 7/8" the other number is the outer circumference...... When referenced against this chart below, your belt comes up short as well.

Please print out the chart, take your belt back to wherever you bought it and demand your money back because you got screwed.

http://www.gokartsupply.com/mobile/tcbelts.htm

3) get on eBay and buy not only the correct belt from the actual comet part number, but buy yourself a "genuine comet belt" not a "replaces comet part number xxxxx" belt. The genuine comet belts are the only belts that actually are "thick" (not wide nor top wide but from the bottom of the cog to the outside of the belt is 2x thicker on genuine comet belts.

Seriously, if I were you I'd go back to Napa and talk to a manager if you had to as its not wide enough, and it's circumference isn't even in the range it is supposed to fall under. Even if you used it it is their own **** fault for selling you the belt that was supposedly a direct replacement.

Unless... YOU were the one that just bought it without referencing the right number..... Then you lost out on that one man :-( sorry if you did.

 

[bindercrazy]

Sorry it took so long to reply i am in Texas still helping my brother with his truck. I went to NAPA before i left and his answer was i have an alignment issue and it has to be right. He asked me if it was straight and i said yes and he said it needs to be off set like a snowmobile and i need to have it aligned properly. So i left and didnt get a chance to follow through with it. It should be fine the belt is original and the TC was never messed with and yes the original belt was wore down but the TC was rusty as heck. I dont buy it what he said. He should have gave me my money back.

 

[Sinbad001]

They sold you a belt for a 30 series. It is asymetrical, that is why there are arrows telling you which way to install it. A 40 series is symetrical and can be installed either way. Even smooth sheves would have wrecked that belt. A 40 series belt is more expensive than a 30 but you should be able to get them for $35 or less. You should be able to fight the Napa guy on this. Alignment or not, he sold you a belt that could never work on your clutch.

 

[Poboy kartman]

Sorry it took so long to reply i am in Texas still helping my brother with his truck.

Hmmmm...going from New York to Texas in summer....you probably have a whole new appreciation for the term "shade tree mechanic"!!!!

 

[bindercrazy]

Yeah for sure all though its 95 back home its 104 here so its pretty close. No shade trees in texas lol. Good thing is i have been at a you pull it junk yard and have been getting airbag stuff for my sons 95 Mustang GT ssshhh....Your tools are so hot you can not use them here. You have to cover them or hide them under the truck. Anyways i didnt want to fight this NAPA guy on this becuse its the only auto store in town and he gives me really great deals on parts. Just not this belt. it was around $55 and was shot in about an hour. All wraped up and nothing but string. I think i can talk to the other NAPA guy and he might hook me up but not this guy. HOT HEAD at the counter.

---------- Post added at 08:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30 AM ----------

The NAPA guy kept saying that the numbers mated up in the book. Well the book is wrong the belt was short and wasnt right. I didnt know better but after all the videos i have watched i now see there is a bit of play on the drive.
Thanks for the input everybody

 

[KartFab]

the napa guy is full of **** lol. **** him. Its one thing to be dumb, which your napa guy clearly is, but its a whole other ball game to be ignorant by choice. He needs to be put in check.

Think of it this way.

Becaue of his stupidity, he gave you the wrong part. Not a big deal.

Because of his ignorance, he believes he is 'right'. Big problem.

Because of his ignorance, he makes up **** to make you feel wrong. Big problem

Because of his ignorance, you lost $55 and could have damaged your $300 torque converter. BIG BIG problem.

Do him a favor and complain to NAPA directly. It will only take 2 minutes of your time, and explain that he wouldn't help you out and you fear retaliation for parts price increases as you are a regular shopper. Also say you don't want to file a complaint with the BBB, and that all you want is a refund for the wrong part he sold you.

http://www.napaonline.com/contact-us.aspx

 

[OzFab]

the napa guy is full of **** lol. **** him.

Grant, I know it's frustrating & just plain wrong but, please, language...

 

[bindercrazy]

Yeah the other service guy is a friend of the family so when I get back from Texas I'll talk to him directly.
Thanks again
Davec

 

[bindercrazy]

NAPA is going to do nothing about the belt and the T/C that got messed up. They said the book says for that number 6814DF. It was really hard to get on and now i know why. I bought the bronze bushings or sleeves in the drive and a new belt from MFG. Thanks KartFab for the link on youtube. Should be here soon and ill rebuild both Drive and Driven.
Thanks All