TaoTao 110cc Experience Thread

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kart38

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Howdy. New to the forum. I bought 3 x TaoTao GK110 karts. For the official record I just wanted to get a thread started so others may learn from my experience, for better for worse. The experience is still early, more will be posted as this plays out.

For context, I wanted to find a USA-made kart but my research led me to sites like this one which indicated that they no longer exist. For whatever reason, he American companies called it quits and it's literally nothing but the Chinese-made stuff now. Lots of people making dirt bikes (KTM, Kawasaki, Yamaha, etc.) but if you want a go kart / buggie, companies like TaoTao and HammerHead is all there is. If I'm wrong about this please feel free to correct me, but that's my understanding. You can get parts for the old American karts, but the whole thing turns into a CraigsList / DIY operation.

Anyway, long story short, I didn't want to go down that road for 3 karts. I tried to find reviews about TaoTao and other Chinese-made karts but there really wasn't much. Lots of perfect 5-star reviews that are worthless ("my kid loved it!") and scream fake. And then also a fair number of negative reviews that convey zero useful information ("the bolts came loose") and indicate some soccer mom/dad driving a minivan that has zero understanding of mechanical things. I also saw some reviews indicating people like to start out with the Chinese karts and then over time swap parts out with better quality as things go wrong. I'm an engineer, and plan on getting my hands dirty, so figured I'd give it a shot. How bad can the Chinese karts be anyway? Seems like all these places selling them would go under in a hurry if they literally just didn't work. They gotta run, at least for a while, right?

Anyway, that's my thinking, here we go.

This is the fleet.



Got three of the 110cc (GK110) model: Pink, Green, and Black. I had to make some mods to two of them to bring the seats in closer. I bought them from a new outfit called Hunter Road Power Sports in San Marcos, TX. Just putting that out there for information sake. I wanted to get them from a dealer, some place local, so I had a realistic way to see my 1 year engine/power warranty honored. Shipping stuff back/forth to an online dealer just isn't going to happen. The owner seems like a do right fellow, I don't anticipate any problems there. With time I guess we'll see :)

Ok, so Christmas day. Kids are crazy excited. Things started out great. I used the accelerator bolt to limit the speed. I'm running kids through stopping drills to train them how to use the things. We're just going back and forth down a very low-traffic high-visibility caliche/country road in front of our property. All is going well so far.

Per instructions I did the break-in oil change at around the 45 minute mark. Seems a bit early for the break-in change, but whatever, these are the instructions I was given. Oil changed.

Things continue on, doing our stopping drills. I had my own little drivers ed course going. Then our first problem. Suddenly this happened.



On the green kart the steering column cracked at the point where the cog at the end of the column connects to the shaft that connects with the wheels. Help me out please, what is this called? So when turning right the teeth would slip and the wheel would just spin. This thing cracked seemingly for no reason. The kart didn't crash, nothing happened at all. Suddenly the crack was just there. Looking at it the crack traces back to one of those bolts you see in the plastic housing. I'm thinking the manufacturer just tightened it too much and cracked it? So now the kart only turns left and just gets stuck in that position. I get this kart hauled back to the house and it's now out of commission. At first glance this doesn't seem like a terribly huge problem so I'm not that worried, but a bit miffed that this thing would break at all. And also find it disconcerting now that I realize this critical component is constructed of plastic instead of metal.

About 3 hrs after this the pink kart goes down. Again nothing happened to cause the problem, it just stopped working. In the case of the pink kart the problem seems to be the transmission. I can shift gears (L/N/R). The LED indicator changes, I can hear the transmission click into gear, but when accelerating nothing much happens. It acts like it's in N, except, you can feel it push just a little. If nobody is in the kart and I push the pedal from a standing position the kart will move (both forward and backwards) but slowly with very little force. I can easily hold it and keep it from moving.

So pink kart is down hard. And whatever the problem is seems a big one and it's internal, definitely a warranty issue, I'm headed back to the shop with this one. I'll report on how that goes. Not a good sign if the transmission blows out on the first day. And bear in mind these things are all governed to very slow speeds too.

Only the black kart remains. So far no problems with it at all. Since the pink kart is now down with a pretty severe problem, I decided to swap its steering parts with the green kart and get two back and running again. Then I only have one to take back to the shop.

At first I figured on the green kart all I needed to swap out was that small plastic component that was cracked. Upon inspection though I couldn't figure a way to remove it, so end up removing the whole steering apparatus, whatever it's called (help?). This...



From what I can tell there is no way to get that plastic part off. Even after removing this entire part, then metal pieces on the end seem to be welded or something and there is no way to get at the plastic parts to swap them out. At any rate I swapped the whole part and got green kart going again. So for today (12/26/16) two karts were running for a solid 6+ hours spread out through the afternoon.

Then in the evening just as it was about time to call it a day the black kart goes down. Another steering problem.



At the ends of the metal bar in the middle that holds the shaft with the gear teeth are these plastic stoppers. The purpose seems to be to stop the travel at that point. What happened here is there was a little bit of a crash. Not really a crash per se, the boy driving turned hard on a path and went hard into some tall grass. The wheels hit essentially a wall of packed tight grass, kind of like hay. They jammed to one side and this plastic stopper got cracked. Steering shot. Other than that the kart is fine, there is no external damage whatsoever. No scratches, nothing. And because of that this damage is silly to me. Am I wrong? Is it reasonable for this thing to break so easily? There is no bent metal. No ruptured tires. No cracked plastic on the flimsy headlights. No discernible damage whatsoever except this stupid plastic stopper on the steering thingamajig. And upon inspection there is no way to replace just that part either. I have to swap out the entire thingamajig.

Ok, so drum roll, this steering thing, whatever it's properly called, feels like a source of long-term problems. It seems to be a cheaply made piece of junk. Can anybody recommend a good off-brand (not TaoTao) version of this part that I can swamp in that will be tougher and more agreeable to long-term repairs. Like allowing me to swap out the plastic insert if it gets cracked rather than buying the whole component?

Here is my next problem.



Also please help me out on what this is called. This hose that feeds air from the engine through the air filter into the carburetor. That **** hose will not stay on for anything. I even tried some clamp hoses I had laying around, the kind with teeth that you screw tight. In fact, the tighter I make it, it helps to pull the hose OFF the nozzle on the engine. It's very frustrating. First, can someone explain to me exactly what this is and how important it is? I keep putting it back on, but it always comes off, but the engine doesn't seem to have any trouble without it. Am I losing engine power without it? Is it going to get my filter dirty quicker? Next, any recommendations to fix it? The only thing I can figure to try next is a smaller hose. The fat hose that's on there now is seems too large. The hose just doesn't fit tight enough, but more than that, the external diameter is so large that it doesn't fit flush against the engine. From the pic you can see the space creates a wedge. Well the hose doesn't like being squeezed in there and this pressure pushes the hose right back off the nozzle. And then the clamp just doesn't hold it tight enough. Maybe the right clamp will do the trick. The pinch clamps aren't working. The screw clamps pull it off even faster. The space used by the screw causes the clamp to be too large and it can't fit into that wedge space, so it ends up pulling the hose off the nozzle instead of keeping it on. A really high strength pinch clamp might do the trick. This isn't a huge thing, I'm sure I can get it solved on my own, mostly just putting it out there as part of my review. On literally all three karts this is a problem. Just drive down the road and back and by the time you're back that hose will have popped off. Driving me nuts. But more than that this is just bad engineering. It's asinine that a core component like this would so consistently not work. Is the nozzle not large enough? Did the kart come with the wrong size hose? The wrong clamps? Did the dealer that assembled them screw this up? I just don't get it.

So, not even two days in, this is my experience so far.
 

Kartorbust

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These look like knock offs of Carter Bros Talons, and wouldn't be surprised if they were. Either the American companies folded or didn't want to deal with lawsuits from parents whose kids got hurt by being stupid on the kart or buggy. I Quite a few Chinese made things go kart and mini bike related have had a few recalls for parts that come loose or break.

Only company that I can think of off the top of my head that still makes go karts is Azusa, based out of California. What you have, members on here would consider buggies and not go karts, since these have suspension. Azusa makes a simple kart that can either be bought completed or in a kit form that lacks an engine. Gopowersports is looking into producing their own kits to help the market out again.
 

Denny

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Steering rack is the word you are looking for on the "steering thingy". You will have to look around I have seen some made out of aluminum, but don't know if the will work or not or even where I saw them. Sorry! As for the hose issue you have a couple of choices there.
1. Clean all oil and grease off the hose and fitting and go buy some "yellow death" (also known as Gorilla snot) 3M Super Weather Strip Adhesive yellow, and glue the hose on the barb. Never to be removed again if you do it right.

2. Replace it with a slightly smaller inside diameter non reinforced hose and yellow death it on.

3. The one I would do find a plastic or better yet brass barbed on both ends hose connector that will fit in the little tube tight and not pull out, there by increasing the length of the tube and adding barbs to help retain the hose.

Good Luck!

Denny
 

chancer

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I think you drive line issues stem from the throttle being turned down so the kids do not go too fast. I am NOT sure though. On a typical go kart turning downthe throttle causes the clutches to slip since there is not enough revs to force them to lock.

The steering I dunno seems like junk... but you guessed that already.

The hose on the engine is for internal crankcase pressure relief. Like the breather you would see on an old V8 valve cover. It could just accept a hose and filter. If you could get a hose to "stay on". It just goes back to the carb air intake currently for epa specs, cause it can blow out a little oil mist.

Before you do anything I would take these notes and pics back to your reputable dealer. That is why you used him anyway right?
 

B_Bimmer

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I agree with chancer on the one that stopped moving. Your clutch probably just needs to be tightened up. It could have been slipping due to the low engine speed. The hose that keeps coming off looks like a breather to me, I would pull it off, clean up the barb and put a ring of jb weld on the end. Let it dry and then when you stick the hose on and tighten it there is something to grip.

I have two taotao 110cc four wheeler's. The best thing to say to a new owner is I am sorry. I find it ironic that by litigating all legitimate manufacturers out of business all we ended up with are ones who should be out of business.

The bolts coming loose thing is 100% true. Every single bolt WILL come loose. Check regularly and keep blue locktite handy. Also the workmanship is remarkably poor. Most bolts regardless of the grade they bothered to stamp on them actually came from the cheese factory next door. The rims are so light on mine that they started ripping apart, and my favorite failure to date is the rear swing arm bolt breaking and falling out. These are truly dangerous machines. Be vigilant.
 

kart38

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I think you drive line issues stem from the throttle being turned down so the kids do not go too fast. I am NOT sure though. On a typical go kart turning downthe throttle causes the clutches to slip since there is not enough revs to force them to lock.

Hmm. First, just to be clear, all I did was adjust a bolt on the gas pedal to prevent full travel. Throttle itself I didn't touch. Second, it still has enough travel that I can rev the RPMs up fairly high. Without a meter no idea how high, but it sure sounds like it's spinning pretty fast. I could probably take a video with sound so you can hear it... Third, if it's as you say why hasn't it been a problem with the other two?

So if I tried to adjust the clutch as you're suggesting, what am I looking for?

The steering I dunno seems like junk... but you guessed that already.

I did some more research on this. Just from perusing online part sites I found some stuff that looks pretty familiar.

Like this

http://www.gopowersports.com/mini-mid-steering-gear-cover/

and this

http://www.gopowersports.com/mini-mid-rod-end-assembly/

one thing led to another and I found this

http://gokartsusa.com/steering-ball-joint-trailmaster-mini-xrs-gokart.aspx

Looks just like the stuff I've got, except it's supposedly for a Trailmaster kart. Found similar stuff for HammerHead too. It seems that the same Chinese company is making the same karts branded under a lot of different names, that or they are shamelessly ripping each other off. From the pics though it's clear this thing does dissasemble. So I had another crack at it this AM and was able to get it taken apart.





So, pulling the plastic stopper off one assembly I was able to get another one working again. So two karts are back online! :D. This wasn't actually so bad. Didn't take but maybe 15 min to do the repair after I figured out what needed to be done. I just need to figure out how to get replacements for the exact plastic parts now. Even though this stuff I've found looks similar it may be off by a little. I'll go back to my dealer with that question.

The hose on the engine is for internal crankcase pressure relief. Like the breather you would see on an old V8 valve cover. It could just accept a hose and filter. If you could get a hose to "stay on". It just goes back to the carb air intake currently for epa specs, cause it can blow out a little oil mist.

Thanks for this. Now that I know it's mostly an EPA/CA thing I won't be so worried about it. From what you're saying connecting the hose up will actually make my filter get dirty quicker, am I right? In which case I may be inclined to leave it disconnected. I guess I could be a good steward of the environment though, I'll have to ponder it. That tiny bit of oil you're talking about doesn't sound like an issue to me.

Before you do anything I would take these notes and pics back to your reputable dealer. That is why you used him anyway right?

Well, it's a hassle to trailer up and go the distance. Stuff that is legitimately a warranty issue I will definitely take back, but I gotta learn to service these things on my own either way long-term. So I gotta put the problem in context.

---------- Post added at 09:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 AM ----------

Steering rack is the word you are looking for on the "steering thingy". You will have to look around I have seen some made out of aluminum, but don't know if the will work or not or even where I saw them. Sorry! As for the hose issue you have a couple of choices there.
1. Clean all oil and grease off the hose and fitting and go buy some "yellow death" (also known as Gorilla snot) 3M Super Weather Strip Adhesive yellow, and glue the hose on the barb. Never to be removed again if you do it right.

2. Replace it with a slightly smaller inside diameter non reinforced hose and yellow death it on.

3. The one I would do find a plastic or better yet brass barbed on both ends hose connector that will fit in the little tube tight and not pull out, there by increasing the length of the tube and adding barbs to help retain the hose.

Good Luck!

Denny

Great suggestions on fixing the hose. I'm with you that I don't like the idea of gluing it on. Extending the barb sounds like the best thing to try next. From what chase is saying though it sounds like it isn't that big of a deal either way.
 

DFW Rusty

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You don't have to connect the hose to your intake air filter, but you will want to put some kind of filter on it so that dust doesn't get in your oil! Just order a small air filter off of Ebay for like $5, they are very small, probably 1" round at the biggest part.

As far as the one go kart losing it's "go". You may check to see if the set screw came off of the slipper clutch or that you lost your shaft key for the sprocket on the slipper clutch. Basically inspect the sprocket on the engine and I bet your problem is much simpler than you think.

These are hammerhead knockoffs. I've been dealing with taotao stuff for about 3 years and now my daughter has a taotao 125 jeep style go kart (she got it for Christmas as well). The trick to keeping a taotao alive is keeping everything serviced! My daughter had a 110 atv for 3 years and we never had an issue with it, but I kept the oil changed and kept the atv serviced very well.
 

Denny

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Yea, that hose should / kinda needs to be hooked up but not for emission reasons.

1. Having it hooked up will help draw unwanted vapor from the crankcase helping to keep the oil serviceable longer by getting rid of the water and acid vapors.

2. Will help keep dirt and water out of the engine as well as bugs that like to build homes in small holes.

3. Will help keep the outside of the engine cleaner by not blowing oil all over the place and in doing so will keep the engine running cooler.

4. Having a little negative crankcase pressure aids in ring seal and will help the engine to live a longer life by keeping sludge formation in the crankcase to a minimum.

So in conclusion hook the darned hose up if you want the engine to live longer. I cringe everytime some one here says just unplug the hose and put a fuel filter on the end without actually realizing what the whole purpose of it is. Hook it back up the engineers knew what they were doing when they designed it. :thumbsup:


Denny
 

chancer

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Yea, that hose should / kinda needs to be hooked up but not for emission reasons.

1. Having it hooked up will help draw unwanted vapor from the crankcase helping to keep the oil serviceable longer by getting rid of the water and acid vapors.

4. Having a little negative crankcase pressure aids in ring seal and will help the engine to live a longer life by keeping sludge formation in the crankcase to a minimum.

So in conclusion hook the darned hose up if you want the engine to live longer. I cringe everytime some one here says just unplug the hose and put a fuel filter on the end without actually realizing what the whole purpose of it is. Hook it back up the engineers knew what they were doing when they designed it. :thumbsup:
Denny
That is Good info. I never heard most of it before.
 

firebirdparts

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Good job posting this thread. very interesting. The rack and pinion steering is an interesting complexity. You don't want to do something fancy if it's not reliable. So I would say they made a bad choice there. The only karts I have ever had were more-or-less bulletproof lever on the steering column with tie rods to levers on the steering knuckles. However, the geometry of rack and pinion is better, and the steering effort can be lower, which you need. Sounds like you'll need to find a source of "good" rack and pinion steering units. A machinist could make parts for some of that, but that may or may not be an easy solution depending on how the thing was assembled.

I notice the steering gear assembly on the site you posted is $47 (trailmaster). Not bad.
 

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How's it going?

Hey kart38, are the taotao's still up and running? I got one for my son just after Christmas as a birthday present, so i had been following the thread. We have only put a few hours on it so far, been tied up with soccer and scouts so he's only been able to take it out a few times. So far we haven't had any major issues, just a few little things. He dragged the rear-end over some rocks and i had to pry the skid plate down off the chain and gears and back into position. Also the vent in the gas cap seems to let gas spray out if i fill the tank more than half full. Thinking about ways to cut down on the spray. Also, when the motor gets hot it seems to start losing power. I had turned the "governor" bolt about half way in to limit the accelerator, but ended up having to take it all the way out to get up a mild hill. Have you had any of these issues? Hope the karts are treating you well.
 
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