Taking off from idle

[Cthulhu606]

I just put a brand new Predator 212cc engine on an old kart with a used Comet 30 torque converter. Everything lined up just right and the engine even got a thirty minute break in before a short test ride. The kart ran okay but lacked some fine tuning. After about an hour of driving, I tried to climb a curb from a dead stop and burnt right through the old belt that came on it. I ordered an exact replica from Amazon using the numbers on the belt and slapped it on. The kart was tuned up a little (adjusting cable length and idle screw, etc.) and ran fine from a cold start with the choke fully closed. As the kart warmed up, I attempted to open the choke, but as soon as the choke is in the "run" position, the clutch grabs and tries to run away. I backed the idle screw all of the way out and still have this problem. I thought perhaps, given the old parts, that the springs wrapped around the weights in the clutch could be worn out, causing it to open at a lower rpm than desired. Any ideas would be much appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DeathMachine]

Take the clutch apart and clean and lube it thoroughly according to this chart

C= Clean
L= Lube

Recommended lube:

https://www.gokartsupply.com/340ser.htm

 

[Bbqjoe]

Take the clutch apart and clean and lube it thoroughly according to this chart

C= Clean
L= Lube

Recommended lube:

https://www.gokartsupply.com/340ser.htm

I would never have thought that the inside of the driver gets lubed. How heavy are we talking here? Are we talking like axle grease, or like 90WT.

Thanks for the info.

 

[bob58o]

Dry spray lube.

 

[landuse]

Dry lube, like graphite

 

[Ckolin725]

I just put a brand new Predator 212cc engine on an old kart with a used Comet 30 torque converter. Everything lined up just right and the engine even got a thirty minute break in before a short test ride. The kart ran okay but lacked some fine tuning. After about an hour of driving, I tried to climb a curb from a dead stop and burnt right through the old belt that came on it. I ordered an exact replica from Amazon using the numbers on the belt and slapped it on. The kart was tuned up a little (adjusting cable length and idle screw, etc.) and ran fine from a cold start with the choke fully closed. As the kart warmed up, I attempted to open the choke, but as soon as the choke is in the "run" position, the clutch grabs and tries to run away. I backed the idle screw all of the way out and still have this problem. I thought perhaps, given the old parts, that the springs wrapped around the weights in the clutch could be worn out, causing it to open at a lower rpm than desired. Any ideas would be much appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was having this issue after removing my governor. Ended up my carb was not closing all the way due to improper throttle set up. May not help, but just a thought.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[firemanjim]

Check your throttle cable length, and make sure butterfly closes all the way. Use a throttle return spring ,from fan housing to the throttle arm.
Use dry moly lubricant on the tc, where indicated....

 

[Bbqjoe]

Use dry moly lubricant on the tc, where indicated....

What about a silicone spray?

 

[mckutzy]

No thats "greasy".... it'll attract dirt from the belt..... The dry lube is the proper stuff..

 

[Bbqjoe]

No thats "greasy".... it'll attract dirt from the belt..... The dry lube is the proper stuff..

OK, thanks. It's on my shopping list.

 

[Cthulhu606]

I also removed my governor as soon as I bought it. I have removed the air box and observed the butterfly open fully and close fully without help. I broke down the driver and lubed with spray type graphite according to the chart and am still having the issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bob58o]

I also removed my governor as soon as I bought it. I have removed the air box and observed the butterfly open fully and close fully without help. I broke down the driver and lubed with spray type graphite according to the chart and am still having the issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From what I've read, the springs on the driver should return "straight" when taken off the weights.

The springs may need replacing.