Tachometer readings seem odd

Rat

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I am 99.9% sure I've set the right input code for the digital tachometer/Hr meter but wat seems odd to me is that my engine will only hold an idle (choppy but doesn't stall) at a 2550 rpm read, and my engine (according to the tach) will spin up to 7500 (+/- 350 depending on load)

Does this seem accurate for a 212 (mine is a 208 but they are close enough for diagnostic comparison)

The induction wire is wrapped 10 coils and tight per the instruction sheet before anyone asks
 

BrownStainRacing

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I am 99.9% sure I've set the right input code for the digital tachometer/Hr meter but wat seems odd to me is that my engine will only hold an idle (choppy but doesn't stall) at a 2550 rpm read, and my engine (according to the tach) will spin up to 7500 (+/- 350 depending on load)

Does this seem accurate for a 212 (mine is a 208 but they are close enough for diagnostic comparison)

The induction wire is wrapped 10 coils and tight per the instruction sheet before anyone asks
I found on those tiny tachs, that the instructions don't match the tach setting.

You should try setting it, til you see 1400-1800 rpm at idle. That's about where these stock-mild engines like to idle.
 

Rat

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I found on those tiny tachs, that the instructions don't match the tach setting.

You should try setting it, til you see 1400-1800 rpm at idle. That's about where these stock-mild engines like to idle.
Idk what that would even be in the manual, I set for 4cycle single.

FWIW, it is a 12v Runleader RL-HM035LT... not the "Tiny tach" most go with that runs off a CR2032 that has to be changed. I occasionally night ride so backlit is ideal, I don't like dealing with dismounting for battery swaps, and I have the battery/charging system to run it from.

Would you suggest I try 4 cycle twin cylinder on the premise of wasted spark on exhaust stroke?
 
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BrownStainRacing

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Idk what that would even be in the manual, I set for 4cycle single.

FWIW, it is a 12v Runleader RL-HM035LT... not the "Tiny tach" most go with that runs off a CR2032 that has to be changed. I occasionally night ride so backlit is ideal, I don't like dealing with dismounting for battery swaps, and I have the battery/charging system to run it from.

Would you suggest I try 4 cycle twin cylinder on the premise of wasted spark on exhaust stroke?
I have a runleader tach/temp/hr.

Seems like I had to set it on 2 spark, it's been a yr since I set it up, but it was not set right outta the box.

 

Oilpan4

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Usually there's at least 2 settings:
1 spark equals 1 revolution or
1 spark equals 2 revolutions.
I didn't even read the directions on mine I just assumed 1p1r was the one I needed and that 1p2r would read double and it did.
 
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Rat

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Usually there's at least 2 settings:
1 spark equals 1 revolution or
1 spark equals 2 revolutions.
I didn't even read the directions on mine I just assumed 1p1r was the one I needed and that 1p2r would read double and it did.
I was going to post basically the same pic LMAO.

I had a think on what you had said, and my reply... the nature of the typical single cylinder Karting engine is a spark every turn due to the direct induction ignition set up which is unlike something that is CDI triggered and does not spark on the exhaust cycle.

That said 4cycle or not it sparks every single turn ergo the 1P1R setting single should be a match... I set mine for 1P2R because I wasnt thinking about it very hard20230924_174749.jpg
 

jmaack

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Idk what that would even be in the manual, I set for 4cycle single.

FWIW, it is a 12v Runleader RL-HM035LT... not the "Tiny tach" most go with that runs off a CR2032 that has to be changed. I occasionally night ride so backlit is ideal, I don't like dealing with dismounting for battery swaps, and I have the battery/charging system to run it from.

Would you suggest I try 4 cycle twin cylinder on the premise of wasted spark on exhaust stroke?
do this.
 
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