Suggestions of how to repair

Bmw

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I'm wondering the "best" or "easiest" solution to this problem. Rewelding this part to the frame... or can I eliminate the second chain and move the sprocket over so that there is only 1 chain from the torque converter to the axle? Why is there even 2 chains instead of one straight to the axle?
 

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Hellion

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Adding to the consensus (very important) I too say re-weld it and reinforce. Factory welds are done in great haste and it may be lackluster and destined to premature failure. It happens.

That being said, how on earth did it happen?
 

Bmw

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Adding to the consensus (very important) I too say re-weld it and reinforce. Factory welds are done in great haste and it may be lackluster and destined to premature failure. It happens.

That being said, how on earth did it happen?
Not really sure. I think the belt is slipping and the jarring when it catches broke it. The chain fell off, I put it back on without even noticing. The second time it fell off I figured something wasnt right.
 

dtisdale85

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I have a very frustrating problem that I hope you can help me with. I have a 40series torque converter installed on my 16hp go kart however everything is installed correctly belt and chain lines up and torque converter works but when I start engine gokart takes off I’ve changed the carburetor adjusted idle and throttle and and at low idle engine bogs and shut off I’ve tried everything my understanding is the torque converter acts as a transmission is this my problem if that’s the case I’ve even replaced the driver pulley on a new torque converter. It’s puzzling to me and frustrating and wasting money on trial and error can you help I sure can use it
 

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Hellion

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I have a very frustrating problem that I hope you can help me with

You shot yourself in the foot, so to speak, by 'hijacking' another's thread. Not many will see your post in a thread that they have already read and that pertains to another issue entirely.

Just saying. Copying/pasting all this into a new thread would be better and get you the attention you deserve.
 
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fuzzy

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Agree with H to start your own thread.

When I first assembled our setup, I was having the same problem. Ended up disassembling the driver pulley and found that weights were out of their tracks from the factory and could not fully disengage. Cleaned and dry lubed and worked perfectly. What I notice about your second pic is the belt does not appear to be fully off the sheave and riding on the bushing that should be free wheeling on the shaft.
 

JimD

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Keep looking at your 3 pictures and think the spring is wrapped in the wrong direction on the driven unit based on how you have it mounted. Normally the driven unit is facing inboard but you have it outboard which I know you did for alignment. I got off my *** twice and kept flipping the units I have mounted on my wall and I think the spring is wrong but someone else can verify that for me that has done the series 40 and look at their spring.
 

panchothedog

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Keep looking at your 3 pictures and think the spring is wrapped in the wrong direction on the driven unit based on how you have it mounted. Normally the driven unit is facing inboard but you have it outboard which I know you did for alignment. I got off my *** twice and kept flipping the units I have mounted on my wall and I think the spring is wrong but someone else can verify that for me that has done the series 40 and look at their spring.
Very surprised you made such a statement. His spring is absolutely correct. The cams are on the front side of the stops. If he had the driven flipped 180, then he would need the spring wound the other way. I fully understand and respect your long history in the go kart industry, especially in clutches. You have probably forgotten more than I'll ever know. But the setup in post #7 is absolutely correct.
It looks exactly like the 40 series converter that I run on one of my karts, which works flawlessly.
 
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