wow right on the edge...
KartInfo by kartcalc.net:
Code:
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[B][U]KART[/U][/B]
[INDENT][I]RW diameter[/I]: [B] 46.99 cm | 18.5 in[/B]
[I]Total weight[/I]: [B] 270 kg | 595.25 lbs[/B]
[/INDENT]
[B][U]ENGINE[/U][/B]
[INDENT][I]Original HP[/I]: [B] 6.5[/B]
[I]Asummed HP[/I]: [B] ~6.5[/B]
[I]Torque[/I]: [B] 12.86 Nm | 9.48 ft lbf[/B]
[I]RPM[/I]: [B] 3600[/B]
[/INDENT]
[B][U]TRANSMISSION[/U][/B]
[INDENT][I]Final ratio[/I]: [B] 7.2:1[/B]
[I]TC type[/I]: [B] series 30 6" driven[/B]
[I]Lowest ratio[/I]: [B] 19.44:1[/B]
[I]Highest ratio[/I]: [B] 6.48:1[/B]
[/INDENT]
[B][U]PERFORMANCE[/U][/B]
[INDENT][I]Max Wheel Torque[/I]: [B] 250 Nm | 184.39 ft lbf[/B]
[I]Min Wheel Torque[/I]: [B] 83.33 Nm | 61.46 ft lbf[/B]
[I]Acceleration[/I]: [B] 2.24 m/s² | 7.35 ft/s²[/B]
[I]Top Speed[/I]: [B] 49.21 km/h | 30.58 mph[/B]
[/INDENT]
[B][U]PROBLEMS[/U][/B]
[INDENT][B]You might burn your clutch/belt![/B]
[B]Gear ratio too high![/B]
[I]Suggested final ratio[/I]: [B] at least 7.3:1[/B]
[/INDENT]
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guessed weight isn't too accurate usually; but let's stick with that for now.
my calculator is very conservative with numbers, just to keep the belt/clutch alive for as long as possible.
Oh and that is ONROAD and mostly level ground calculations.
In any case you should see slightly increased beltwear but it still
should work.
if it's not, it's not impossible that your engine has a minor powerloss
and/or some of the rotating parts are binding where they shouldn't.
(like from an overtightend chain, or seized bearing)
in case you bought the TAv2 kit new (a series 30 btw.. unsuitable for the duromax I'm afraid)
and just recently, we can rule out much of an issue with that..
still I'd like you to check the belt orientation carefully!
(since we've seen belts with flipped markings so the arrows pointed in the wrong direction)
the angled belt face must point outboard (away from the engine)
just to be sure that's not what's causing troubles.
that's rather easy to do and shouldn't take more than maybe a minute.
if that's okay, I'd remove the belt for a minute, jack up the rear and spin the rear wheels,
to make sure there's no binding in the axle bearings, brake, chain, jackshaft etc.
So everything apart from the engine is actually quickly tested to rotate smoothly that way.
And then it's in fact starting to get nasty, since if that engine lost power, it can be due to several causes..
compression loss, intake leakage, incorrect valve lash, incorrect fuel/air ratio, clogged exhaust..
and so on
IDK how old that 212 is by now, and how much has been done to it so far.
if that oil is reasonably fresh, then leave it alone else I'd suggest fresh oil,
but in both cases, check the 'old' oil ..
in case of a compression loss due to failed piston rings,
you can often get a smell of gasoline and a watery oil.
if that's good, let's first check for a intake leak..
get a can of brake cleaner and with the engine warmed up and idling,
spray some on the intake manifold (cover the gaskets too)
if the engine starts to rev up, you got a leak and likely need to get new gaskets
seldomly retightening the manifold bolts does the trick already, but take care to not strip the threads trying.
if you aint got no leak,
remove the spark plug!
if you got a compression tester,
use it and report (60-80 psi I think should be read can't recall atm)
check the spark plug insulators color (it should be a nice tan colour)
any lighter and you need to increase the amount of fuel,
any darker and you need to decrease the amount of fuel.
When in doubt, post a pic of it and let us decide
(sometimes it needs as little as a good clean of the airfilter
)
If that's also okay, check valve lash.. bring the engine to TDC (spark plug still reoved)
then check valve lash (0.1-0.15mm IN 0.15-0.2mm OUT I think it should be)
And if that still does not reveal any "problem" then check the throttle control too;
remove the belt (to prevent the kart from moving)
and with a warmed up idling engine,
press the throttle pedal BY HAND gently.. check if it feels sticky
(a sharp bent sleeve or so can cause problems)
and hear if the engine is revving up nice and smooth.
shut the engine off again, and get your daughter to help.
let her press the throttle down (pedal to the metal) and check at the engine, that the butterfly is opening all the way (air filter removed)
And if that still doesn't reveal anything.. I'm afraid
the engine should still be fine,
so we're back at the weight thingy (gear ratio change)
you can put the front axle on a bathroom scale (with the help of a 2x4
)
and then do the same with the read axle and add the two values.
that should yield a more or less accurate result of the kart's weight.
Sure a few more teeth on the axle sprocket won't hurt..
but if you're guess is at least close, again.. 7.2:1 shouldn't cause a kart to struggle.
(again on road and on almost level ground)
In case you need the kart to climb some hilly backyard terrain, you might want to swap to a 8:1 ratio for that engine
if you don't want to buy a sprocket hub for the axle,
to mount a 80T sprocket, you can achieve the exact same result (8:1 gear ratio)
with a 9T TC sprocket and your current 72axle sprocket.
https://www.mfgsupply.com/gomini/go...tsdrive/gominisprocketsdrive58c40/az2180.html
(that should fit the Tav2 Kit IIRC it uses a 5/8" jackshaft)
'sid
