Stripping Snowblowers Like Savages

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mindymogul

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So in the years I've dealt with karts and building/modding them I've never seen anyone take something like the auger from the snowblower and use that to their advantage. Hyrdostatic/friction drive transaxles Ive seen plenty of but wouldn't an auger gearbox be a perfect "differential" for the front engine builds that've been popping up? I mean the gear ratios range anywhere from 8:1 to 12:1 but I'm really thinking about trying to build something. I mean they're designed to take stress at max RPM and shove it aside like its nothing. In reality someone could make a torque monster with one of these if they had the correct final gearing.

Yes I understand these are FR levels of "thinking" but executed right it could work out pretty well
 

anickode

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Go find a snowblower and try to turn the auger by hand.

It takes a tremendous amount of force to "coast" a worm drive, to the point that the momentum of the kart and rider would likely just disintegrate the gears.

Basically, you let off the gas and your wheels stop turning.

Plus they are only meant to turn so fast. Brass/bronze gears with bushings. Your average snowblower probably has a 3 or 4 to 1 reduction driving the impeller, which in turn drives the worm box. They won't hold up to much more than 1000 rpm on the input.
 

mindymogul

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Actually the mtd and cub cadet I have both have practically 0 drag and uses full roller bearings for shaft ends. Without the auger pulley brake it'll stay turning for about 20sec and has a gear ratio of about 8.8:1. Already done the homework. Not every machine is the exact same. Old machines are slow an horrible but modern machines can be found cheaper than the old crappy ones that don't even run if you look in the right places. "Collector's Deal"
 

landuse

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I would say give it a try and let us know. If you can get your hands on an auger then I would say go for it. At least we will then know if it does or doesn't work
 

anickode

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Actually the mtd and cub cadet I have both have practically 0 drag and uses full roller bearings for shaft ends. Without the auger pulley brake it'll stay turning for about 20sec and has a gear ratio of about 8.8:1. Already done the homework. Not every machine is the exact same. Old machines are slow an horrible but modern machines can be found cheaper than the old crappy ones that don't even run if you look in the right places. "Collector's Deal"

That's probably the momentum of the big heavy impeller and pulley driving the auger, not the momentum of the spinning auger back-driving the impeller.

With the brake disabled, try turning the auger by hand. It's not just the gear ratio, it's the nature of a worm drive.

It's like trying to remove a bolt from a threaded hole by pulling on it. In an ideal world, (ie, zero friction), applying a longitudinal force to a thread would cause it to start turning, but it just doesn't work out like that.

Some older units did use a ring and pinion gear drive (like the rear end on a car, minus the differential) for the augers. Those would be good candidates for such a use. They will be easily identified by their unique shape. The newer models that can be had cheaply are also made cheaply, with die cast gearbox housings. I just don't see them holding up.

When I built my rat wagon, I had the exact same initial thought of using a snowblower auger box for the final drive, and simply running a shaft up underneath the tub with a one-to-one chain drive off the clutch to turn it. My prior knowledge of gearboxes and drivelines told me it wouldn't work out very well, and upon doing some research online, I discovered that without an overrun clutch on the output side of the box (in this case it would have to be in the wheel hubs), worm drives are a poor choice for vehicles because of the reason I mentioned.

It's also the reason that worm Drive gearboxes are favored in industrial applications, where rollbacks are a concern, such as inclined conveyor belts, bucket elevators, etc. The design does not lend itself to being driven by the output shaft, which is exactly what happens in an unpowered coast, be it forwards or backwards.
 

mindymogul

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Ironically all 3 machines I picked up do have a Ring & Pinion setup. The MTD I bench tested seemed to have the least resistance and actually had a serviceable fluid port. I also had a new-ish Cub Cadet that had a worm gear with minimal resistance (turned about 6 sec after full idle w/o blades) but it was too purdy to ruin. So old crappy MTD will do. At a 1:1 pulley ratio will get the wheels at about 1475 according to the tach. Over all it's going to a be a 8.8:1 Ratio at the wheels so now the fun part is what I wanna use for drive ratios.
 
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