Streaker kart possible build

[madprofessor]

It's not supposed to, but hey, it's a bearing that's supposed to rotate anyway.stripped the bearing setscrews taking the axle out

Huge fan of setscrews here! Just love the squiggly lines they draw into the axle as they cut their way around it, looks a little like a surfer's scratch drawing of a nice wave set.
Sorry, that was "that other guy'", I try to keep his sarcastic arse down, but he gets a peek out now and then. Several folks here know the multiple positive factors of using double-split locking collars sistered up against various systems that get mounted on an axle, preferably on both sides of each. The actual real work is done by that piece of keystock in the keyway, so things can't rotate. Keeping it from migrating along the axle is the collars' job, and no setscrew should be counted on to keep the part in place. Not for twisting of course, and not even counted on for migrating. On a bearing like you described? Who cares if there's even a setscrew in there to keep the bearing from rotating on the shaft? It is a bearing after all, and it's going to rotate something or other. Just needs to not migrate.
Do you think a double-split locking collar that doesn't require sliding anything off of the end of the axle, slaps on in 5 minutes flat, would have kept those setscrews from stripping out on the R&R job?

 

[Thepartsguy]

Huge fan of setscrews here! Just love the squiggly lines they draw into the axle as they cut their way around it, looks a little like a surfer's scratch drawing of a nice wave set.
Sorry, that was "that other guy'", I try to keep his sarcastic arse down, but he gets a peek out now and then. Several folks here know the multiple positive factors of using double-split locking collars sistered up against various systems that get mounted on an axle, preferably on both sides of each. The actual real work is done by that piece of keystock in the keyway, so things can't rotate. Keeping it from migrating along the axle is the collars' job, and no setscrew should be counted on to keep the part in place. Not for twisting of course, and not even counted on for migrating. On a bearing like you described? Who cares if there's even a setscrew in there to keep the bearing from rotating on the shaft? It is a bearing after all, and it's going to rotate something or other. Just needs to not migrate.
Do you think a double-split locking collar that doesn't require sliding anything off of the end of the axle, slaps on in 5 minutes flat, would have kept those setscrews from stripping out on the R&R job?

The 1” live bearings had the collars on them the whole thing was one piece. I am using splits on all sides to keep the axle from moving side to side. Still tightened the set screws on the bearing collars thinking I was done with the job. still I’m gonna tighten the bearing set screws on the new bearings.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Ok I did it right the second time. I locked everything down and am ready to make the linkage for the band brake. Also outdid myself on the seat. thing is absolutely perfect and super comfortable. this thing will be an absolute cruiser!

 

[madprofessor]

Very nice cushion for the caboosie. What kind of car donated that?.................and more importantly, where's the racing harness?

 

[Thepartsguy]

Very nice cushion for the caboosie. What kind of car donated that?.................and more importantly, where's the racing harness?

I’m building this kart for a buddy with spare parts I have and the parts he buys when he can. he got me the seats but didn’t say what they were out of. quick question are you aware of any torque converters that will bolt to an 8hp Tecumseh engine? I wanna buy an eBay $67 30 series for a 1” output. but I’m not welding a jackshaft onto the kart. and I don’t wanna buy the whole torque converter to find out the plate doesn’t match the four bolt pattern on my 8hp engine.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Super easy to rip the destroyed brake setup out of this streaker and run a band 4” band brake.

 

[Thepartsguy]

All that is left is to weld the seat down the rest of the way and run a throttle cable. Then it’s test drive time. I’m worried about the tires being to big with the clutch that’s on it but realize I can always put a 10 tooth clutch for 420 chain on it and that should be enough to move it through the fields at least.

 

[madprofessor]

I wanna buy an eBay $67 30 series for a 1” output.

A 1" motor shaft for a 30 series TC isn't what's most often seen for sale, usually a 3/4" shaft for 30 series. If I had a 1" shaft to start with, I'd put on a 40 series TC that's most often sold that way. It's the driven jackshaft that comes in a variety of shaft sizes.
That 4-hole pattern in the pics looks so much like a standard TC backplate pattern it worries me. If it's off a little (say 1/2") there would be no new holes drilled, just redneck wallerin' out of the holes 'til a bolt goes thru. I'm a little too OCD to automatically do that, but redneck 'nuff to do it once frustration kicks in.

 

[Thepartsguy]

a junk spare mikuni worked perfectly! Now we have full power and an easy to run throttle cable

 

[Thepartsguy]

$50 ebay torque converter works amazing on an 8hp Tecumseh! one mod was drilling out the bushing to fit the oversized crank bolt. But that was very easy! Has tons of torque and is an off-road beast! just ordered two more torque converters for the other karts! used to be against them. now I’m hooked

 

[Denny]

Why would you be against them? They are on so many different things. If you really want it reliable clean and maintain it using factory Comet recommend procedures and use only Genuine Comet belts.

 

[madprofessor]

If you really want it reliable clean and maintain it

We don't hear near enough about cleaning TC's, the belt dust alone from cheap belts is bad enough, but when you add in the extra dirt from the environment, you can also then add in that frictional parts are wearing down from it. Know what else doesn't get mentioned enough? Having the cover (at least when available) in place to keep out some of the dirt and moisture.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Why would you be against them? They are on so many different things. If you really want it reliable clean and maintain it using factory Comet recommend procedures and use only Genuine Comet belts.

I have read people having problems with the belts in the kit. But I was back in the muddy fields and Probably doing 30-35mph down the road for over a mile. The belt looks like it was never even used. I never lost any power but from what I read on forums expected the belt to be almost smoked anyway. got back home looked at the belt and was kind of shocked it looked brand new. I’m gonna leave it alone.

 

[Denny]

If it is ok, leave it alone for now. When it comes time to replace it use only a Genuine Comet belt. They cost more upfront but will save lots on the back end. Take it from experience.

 

[madprofessor]

...............and here's some more experience for you.................the time dealing with a kart's poor performance due to a belt that's starting to slip and wear out while waiting for it to get bad enough for you to buy a nice new Comet belt, well, it ain't worth it.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Take the front tires off the single seater streaker and put them on the front of the two seater streaker. That gets rid of the junk front tires with plastic bushings in them on the front of the two seater now. And makes the two seater much safer having bearings in the front hubs instead of bushings. then I’m gonna get rims for the small wheels and build the single seater into a small tire racer..