Streaker Build: Start to Finish

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bob58o

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I'm not 100% sure about those gaskets. Some places sell them as 0.010" some as 0.009". I think they are probably the same ones. Not sure 0.002" will make a difference anyway.

MOD2 is a higher RPM cam with some 90 degrees of overlap (27 degrees of 0.050" lift overlap).

Intake open: 46.3 BTDC
Intake open (0.050") : 14.3 BTDC

Exhaust close: 44.0 ATDC
Exhaust close (0.050"): 12.7 ATDC

Guessing that cam will be ok on Premium Pump Gas with 11:1 Static Compression Ratio.
The overlap will allow some of the compression to bleed off and combustion pressure will be less than compared to a cam with a greater Lobe Separation Angle or with less duration.

You might want to call Dynocams to see what Compression Ratio they recommend for what you want to do. Are you having Dynocams mill your head? (sorry if I missed that part)
 

Kentucky Boy

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Local shop here in town can mill it for me. The mod 2 cam is the only one I have experience with. My goal is to get into some upper rpms, as well as picking up some hp from increased compression. Dyno cams recommended 22# springs, which is what I use in my other motor. I may just go with the 22# springs as opposed to the 26. What would it hurt to use 26# springs?
 

ond

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Wouldn't hurt a thing to run the #26 springs and you might get just a little more rpm's out of it . I would keep at least .030 clearance between the piston and the bottom of the head .
 

Kentucky Boy

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Wouldn't hurt a thing to run the #26 springs and you might get just a little more rpm's out of it . I would keep at least .030 clearance between the piston and the bottom of the head .

Cool thanks for the info OND. My other motor seems like it needs stronger spring when approaching the higher rpm's so I'd like to up them to 26#. I'll play it safe with 0.030 head to P clearance. Gonna check my valve clearance soon to see how much to mill off.

What type of fuel do you want to use?
Since the cam is low lift, the fuel octane will probably limit how much you mill.

+0.020" Rod (.005" in the hole)
3 stacked gaskets (0.027" thick for 0.032" P2H clearance).

Mill 0.040" and you should be at 11:1 CR.

I try to use 100 Octane with 11:1, but lately I've been using 93 octane with Royal Purple Fuel Stabilizer/Octane Booster. You can probably get away with Premium Pump Gas and 11:1 CR.

Got the 0.027 head gaskets in the mail today. Two triple stacked head gaskets shipped to my door...$38.25...what a huge rip off.

Here's the intake post porting.
 

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bob58o

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Got the 0.027 head gaskets in the mail today. Two triple stacked head gaskets shipped to my door...$38.25...what a huge rip off.

I think NR was the cheapest I found. Like $13 each plus shipping.

The first time I got the 0.036" "MLS" gasket I didn't expect 4 of the thin one riveted together. Not sure what I expected.

Port work looks great.:thumbsup:
 

Kentucky Boy

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That's where I bought them. The rip off comes from overcharging shipping. Shipping was almost $10.

Measured my valve to piston clearance today. I put the clay on the piston in the area the valves usually compress on it and then cut it in half. I cut it in half before I take my measurement to prevent having to cut it after. I think this helps get a pretty good measure. I have differing measurements for the intake and exhaust. My intake v2p clearance is 0.115 and exhaust is 0.125. My question is, what is the minimum valve to piston clearance? I've researched and found different opinions. I'm trying to figure out a safe amount to mill off my head.

Here's a pic with the valves imprinted on the clay. My piston is 0.005 in the hole and I'm using a 0.027 head gasket.
 

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bob58o

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I’ve heard 0.050” minimum. I cut my piston to give me 0.065”. They say the exhaust is supposed a bit more than the intake, but 0.065” should be fine for the exhaust.
 

Kentucky Boy

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Exhaust p2v is 0.125. Mill 0.040 off leaves 0.085 piston to exhaust valve clearance. Since my intake p2v is a little less than the exhaust 0.115-0.040= 0.075 p2v clearance. I should be ok to mill off 0.040?
 

bob58o

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I listen to the people who have been on here for a while and seem to know what they're talking about. Thanks.

That guy has been on here since the beginning of time. His first post, regarding alchemy, was carved in stone.
 

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Kentucky Boy

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Got the next piece of the puzzle in today. ARC makes some really nice parts. The rods and flywheels are very nicely machined. Still need a ss valve and spring package and a new header.

The coil that came on this motor was rusty and a mouse had eaten the insulation off of the ground wire.

I cut out the bad part and soldered in new wire and covered it with heat shrink. I'm going to use an old spark plug wire and boot to spiff it up some later.

Lapped in the new flywheel and installed it.
 

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