Stephen115's homemade kart

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Stephen115

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i cant see exactyly but aren't the two pieces of the bearing carriers supposed to touch so that the bearing fits into them with no play? not with one bearing carrier peice on each side of the mount?

im pretty sure this is how it goes, I haven't tightened the bolts yet anyways. Once the axle is in and tightened(the bearings have a tightened) then everything will work like it should.
 

Stephen115

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^ which side should I put the bearings on, outside or inside the brackets?
also have some pretty big news! just ordered a 1988 Yamaha yz250 2 stroke w/dual radiators, all it needs is a carb and shifter return spring. Pretty stoked, this thing is going to fly.
 

cant kech me

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^ which side should I put the bearings on, outside or inside the brackets?
also have some pretty big news! just ordered a 1988 Yamaha yz250 2 stroke w/dual radiators, all it needs is a carb and shifter return spring. Pretty stoked, this thing is going to fly.

whichever way will give you more room.
 

Stephen115

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Made some more progress on the kart today. Steering is almost done and did about 1/2 the engine mounts, I'm waiting for the chain and sprocket before I 100% decide on the mounts so that the chain is completely align.



Thats the Yamaha Yz 250, I ordered the ignition coil today for it, only thing left to get it running is a carburetor. I heard you have to have a special exhaust for a 2-stroke is this true?


(steering again)


and this is about how wide it will be in the back to accompany the front.

hope you all enjoy
SJ
 

landuse

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Nice build. I just have one observation. I see that your rear axle is really long, and that your rear wheels sit far away from the frame. You might have a problem with that, in that you might bend your axle there. The best way to prevent this is to have the rear wheels as close to the frame as possible, or some sort of support bearing.
 

Stephen115

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Nice build. I just have one observation. I see that your rear axle is really long, and that your rear wheels sit far away from the frame. You might have a problem with that, in that you might bend your axle there. The best way to prevent this is to have the rear wheels as close to the frame as possible, or some sort of support bearing.

If I have the rear wheels as close to the frame as possible then the front will be wider than the rear...and whats a bearing support?
 

Jake.B

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Yes 2 strokes neeed backpressure. Check them out on the innternet to get the idea you can probably get a cheaper aftermarket brand witch add HP than the stock pipe
 

Stephen115

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I need some help or opinions, The sprocket that was used on the bike uses a #520 chain/sprocket. now its going to be pretty expensive to use that setup roughly around $80, since all I have is the drive sprocket that came with my motor. Now, I'm wondering if I could just use a #41 chain/sprocket setup,since its half the price. ? and how would I go about changing the drive sprocket thats on the motor to the #41 sprocket?
 

Stephen115

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axel and hubs came today.


have a question though, are the hubs suppost to be really really tight on the axel? cause I had to do extra to get them on. the hubs are for a 1 inch axel but I'm also thinking the ID of the hub is the same as the OD of the axel.
 

EC1

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I like this. If you're going with a locked rear axle, consider a more aggressive castor and camber angles. The angle of the steering arm spindles look parallel to each other. The Ackerman steering principle should also be considered. It mechanically compensates for the inside wheel to follow a tighter radius and the outside wheel to follow a larger radius when turning.

Tie rods from an ATV rather than ones that are typically ordered for a yard type kart would be good insurance.

Your wheels, Kirkey seat, absolute insane engine choice and overall scale = awesome.
 

EC1

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There is no way a 40 or 41 chain would hold up to the torque of that motor. Even a typical keyed hub with a 520 chain/sprocket combo wouldn't hold up. Consider welding another keyed hub end to end, doubling the length of a key, to give it any sort of merciful chance of living!

If you have access to a lathe, matching sprockets to that axle is easy. Craigslist machinists would do this sort of work cheap.
 

EC1

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Addition of a third bearing support would make the kart have a really hard time turning due to the increased frame stiffness, unless you compensate for a rear tire lifting in corners. This again would be possible with the correct front end geometry.
 
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