steel hardening techniques?

Status
Not open for further replies.

tomas02

New member
Messages
76
Reaction score
0
Hi
I've ordered some machinable sprockets from McMasterCarr for my jackshaft
and have been told by someone that they need to be hardened once machined.
is this correct?
and how would i go about doing it?
can i do it myself in workshop?

Im asking this because i have no clue so please no stupid comments
THANKS!:D
 

TorqueRanger

New member
Messages
257
Reaction score
0
Introduction

Carbon steels that have minimum carbon content of 0.4%, or alloy steels with a lower carbon content (hardenable stainless steels with only 0.1% Carbon), can be selectively hardenened in specific regions by applying heat and quench only to those regions. Parts that benefit by flame hardening include gear teeth, bushings etc. These techniques are best suited for medium carbon steels with a carbon content ranging from 0.4 to 0.6%.
Common Selective Hardening Processes

Flame Hardening: A high intensity oxy-acetylene flame is applied to the selective region. The temperature is raised high enough to be in the region of Austenite transformation. The "right" temperature is determined by the operator based on experience by watching the color of the steel. The overall heat transfer is limited by the torch and thus the interior never reaches the high temperature. The heated region is quenched to achieve the desired hardness. Tempering can be done to eliminate brittleness.

The depth of hardening can be increased by increasing the heating time. As much as 6.3 mm (0.25 in) of depth can be achieved. In addition, large parts, which will not normally fit in a furnace, can be heat-treated.

Induction Hardening: In Induction hardening, the steel part is placed inside a electrical coil which has alternating current through it. This energizes the steel part and heats it up. Depending on the frequency and amperage, the rate of heating as well as the depth of heating can be controlled. Hence, this is well suited for surface heat treatment. The details of heat treatment are similar to flame hardening.

Laser Beam Hardening: Laser beam hardening is another variation of flame hardening. A phosphate coating is applied over the steel to facilitate absorption of the laser energy. The selected areas of the part are exposed to laser energy. This causes the selected areas to heat. By varying the power of the laser, the depth of heat absorption can be controlled. The parts are then quenched and tempered. This process is very precise in applying heat selectively to the areas that need to be heat-treated. Further, this process can be run at high speeds, produces very little distortion.

Electron Beam Hardening: Electron Beam Hardening is similar to laser beam hardening. The heat source is a beam of high-energy electrons. The beam is manipulated using electromagnetic coils. The process can be highly automated, but needs to be performed under vacuum conditions since the electron beams dissipate easily in air. As in laser beam hardening, the surface can be hardened very precisely both in depth and in location.


http://www.efunda.com/processes/heat_treat/hardening/selective.cfm
 

Doc Sprocket

*********
Messages
15,677
Reaction score
142
Location
Ontario, Canada
And then there's the Redneck case-hardening technique. I have used this with some success.

Find the oldest, nastiest, haven't-changed-the-oil-in-25000-miles used crankcase oil you can, and pour it into a steel pail. Grab your part with a large pair of vise-grips or pliers. Using a torch, heat the part until it is glowing cherry red and immediately quench in the motor oil until it cools. Wipe off, re-heat, re-dunk. Do it a few times. Part will have a nice black finish when done, and be somewhat case (surface) hardened. Please note- there is a very real fire hazard with this method- keep an extinguisher handy, and do this away from other combustibles.

The theory behind all of this is that the process will draw a bunch of the carbon in the oil into the part's outer layer of steel.
 

tomas02

New member
Messages
76
Reaction score
0
thanks for the good replies
i do have a bottle of very old oil that ive forgotten to throw out yet
so might try toystory's "redneck" method
but still waiting on sprockets to arrive
 

B.M.800

TheBeal.
Messages
2,387
Reaction score
24
Location
Central PA
And then there's the Redneck case-hardening technique. I have used this with some success.

Find the oldest, nastiest, haven't-changed-the-oil-in-25000-miles used crankcase oil you can, and pour it into a steel pail. Grab your part with a large pair of vise-grips or pliers. Using a torch, heat the part until it is glowing cherry red and immediately quench in the motor oil until it cools. Wipe off, re-heat, re-dunk. Do it a few times. Part will have a nice black finish when done, and be somewhat case (surface) hardened. Please note- there is a very real fire hazard with this method- keep an extinguisher handy, and do this away from other combustibles.

The theory behind all of this is that the process will draw a bunch of the carbon in the oil into the part's outer layer of steel.

Ide like to try this with making a small knife, think it would work?
 

Doc Sprocket

*********
Messages
15,677
Reaction score
142
Location
Ontario, Canada
I doubt it, but why not try? You've got nothing to lose but your time. As I see it, knives perform the way they do, due to specific alloys and treatments used. Case hardening mild steel still leaves you with a malleable blade- not at all desirable in a knife. The "case" ends up being just a few microns deep. Good surface, bad core.

I employed this technique a few years ago, making emergency repairs to a fire suppression system. I had to make an extractor to remove a hunk of pipe nipple from a hard-to-replace fitting that somebody had brutally overtightened. Since pipe fittings are tapered, when they are wedged in, they are wedged in BUT good. I made a tapered extractor out of 1/4" plate, fluted it, and case-hardened it using the method I described above. The case hardening made the edges of the flutes harder than the mild steel pipe I had to drive it into, thus allowing the extractor to bite the pipe.

I had first learned about the method on Mythbusters several years ago. There is a product called "kasenit" (iirc) that does a better job, and a competitor called "Cherry Red".
 

B.M.800

TheBeal.
Messages
2,387
Reaction score
24
Location
Central PA
I see, what I did was pretty much just for fun(atleast I think beating the tar outa glowing metal is fun) I used a 1/4in or so piece about 20in long and beat it flat. may not even be very good metal for all I know.

Oh well, it was fun. Good thing to take your anger out!
:D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top