Simple Clone Throttle Setup/Governor Removal

Bluethunder3320 · Feb 9, 2012

im not sure what ill put this on yet. i tore this engine down and rebuilt with some new parts i happened to have.

i have removed the governor gear out of the engine. i removed the flywheel and hammered a nail on the axle which the governor turns on. it pops out and falls into the engine. now remove the side cover and retrieve these parts. reinstall the governor rod with NO GEAR on it.

like this:
http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad86/bluethunder3320/photo-561.jpg

i have also removed the crankshaft from the engine and instead of reinstalling the governor arm, i put a bolt with the head on the inside of the engine and tightened the governor arm onto the other side of the bolt where it sticks out the TOP of the engine.

put the stock throttle link from the governor arm to the carb on.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad86/bluethunder3320/photo-2464.jpg

run a SOLID LINKAGE in place of the (stock spring) from throttle arm to governor arm.

end result. youll have to mess around with different springs to get the right tension. (for throttle return)

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad86/bluethunder3320/photo-984.jpg

now the throttle arm looks the same as before and will hook up to a cable the same way as before. you can trim off parts of the throttle plate for appearance if you wish. i trimmed off the air filter support tab because im using an aftermarket air filter so i dont need it.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad86/bluethunder3320/photo-110.jpg

and this way if you want to return the engine to stock (with governor) you have all the parts so you can!!

moderators: if you think anything should be changed to make it more read-able please do so... good luck guys REMOVE THE GOVERNOR AT YOUR OWN RISK!

landuse · Feb 10, 2012

Added to Helpful links sticky

r_chez_08 · Feb 10, 2012

Good write up blue! I may just do this, my current throttle setup is not very good.

jamyers · Feb 10, 2012

Just curious - why not leave the governor intact and then hook up throttle as you did? You'd be able to override it with your foot, and if you ever wanted to "re-install" it, it'd be a simple matter of re-routing the throttle cable.

Or do governors have a tendency to fly apart at higher rpm?

r_chez_08 · Feb 10, 2012

jamyers said:
Or do governors have a tendency to fly apart at higher rpm?

that is possible, or the little cap can come off and mash up the insides. If you plan to go over 4000rpm, remove the governor.

Bluethunder3320 · Feb 11, 2012

landuse said:
Added to Helpful links sticky

thanks! glad i can be helpful

r_chez_08 said:
Good write up blue! I may just do this, my current throttle setup is not very good.

thanks, i have found that this way is not really common, people usually get rid of everything to do with the governor, but then they lack the structure of "what connects the cable to the butterfly". honda has already designed this for you, just modify it with no governor gear in the engine.

jamyers said:
Just curious - why not leave the governor intact and then hook up throttle as you did? You'd be able to override it with your foot, and if you ever wanted to "re-install" it, it'd be a simple matter of re-routing the throttle cable.

Or do governors have a tendency to fly apart at higher rpm?

i have never heard of a governor falling apart. on my friends go kart we have tied a string to the throttle arm and the other end to the governor arm so that it is over ridden, or "bypassed". no problems yet. we probably should remove it like this engine, but we took the lazy way and so far it has been fine.

Doc Sprocket · Feb 11, 2012

I haven't had it happen, but I am familiar with the internals. If the flyweights were to open too far (caused by engine speed WELL beyond 3600, the button could come off the governor gear shaft. Having this chunk of nylon flying around inside your block could cause some chaos. Also, the internal portion of the governor arm (the "rod" that comes thru the block) has enough of a bend in it that if it were to travel too far, it could strike the crank and/or conrod. More potential for carnage.

Again, it has not happened to me, but the potential is certainly there. It is my own opinion that you are better off removing the internals and eliminating two or more failure opportunities.

Bluethunder3320 · Feb 14, 2012

toystory_4wd said:
I haven't had it happen, but I am familiar with the internals. If the flyweights were to open too far (caused by engine speed WELL beyond 3600, the button could come off the governor gear shaft. Having this chunk of nylon flying around inside your block could cause some chaos. Also, the internal portion of the governor arm (the "rod" that comes thru the block) has enough of a bend in it that if it were to travel too far, it could strike the crank and/or conrod. More potential for carnage.

Again, it has not happened to me, but the potential is certainly there. It is my own opinion that you are better off removing the internals and eliminating two or more failure opportunities.

agreed, its better to push that enigne to the limits without worrying about anything happening to the governor. the system is eliminated and you are left with an unrestricted engine

Brandon1023 · Feb 14, 2012

r_chez_08 said:
that is possible, or the little cap can come off and mash up the insides. If you plan to go over 4000rpm, remove the governor.

Nearly all small engines are set to 3600 RPM. No ?

Bluethunder3320 · Feb 14, 2012

Brandon1023 said:
Nearly all small engines are set to 3600 RPM. No ?

yup.

no governor brings it to about 5,500

r_chez_08 · Feb 15, 2012

Brandon1023 said:
Nearly all small engines are set to 3600 RPM. No ?

I say that because you can get to about 4000 buy adjusting the throttle stop screw. No point removing the governor for that.

Brandon1023 · Feb 15, 2012

r_chez_08 said:
I say that because you can get to about 4000 buy adjusting the throttle stop screw. No point removing the governor for that.

And an engine has no problem to run at 3600 rpm all day? I'm asking because, when I was 10 and got my first Go Kart, my dad always said don't push the pedal to the metal basically, because you can "blow the engine." This is also coming from the same person who said stepping on the gas while the engine is off will flood the Carb. LOL

used2jeep · Feb 15, 2012

Yes they can, construction job site generators as a case in point.

OR "Gold Rush" on the Discovery Channel. heheh

jamyers · Feb 15, 2012

used2jeep said:
... "Gold Rush" on the Discovery Channel. heheh

Don't know that I'd use those clowns for a good example, though... :devil2:

Bluethunder3320 · Feb 15, 2012

Brandon1023 said:
This is also coming from the same person who said stepping on the gas while the engine is off will flood the Carb. LOL

lol, i used to think that when i was like 5. my friend was sitting on this kids mini bike and he was pumping the throttle saying "haha i flooded it for you" but it started up fine and he couldnt figure out how it didnt flood.

Doc Sprocket · Feb 15, 2012

Brandon1023 said:
And an engine has no problem to run at 3600 rpm all day?

That is exactly what they are designed to do. Pressure washers, pumps, gennies, cement mixers, trenchers, augers, tampers- you name it. They all use these stationary industrial engines, intended to run all day in industrial/commercial environments.

I'm asking because, when I was 10 and got my first Go Kart, my dad always said don't push the pedal to the metal basically, because you can "blow the engine."

Old-school/experienced comment, probably automotive-based. Comes from days when engines had no computer control or other governing methods. Put a brick on the gas pedal in neutral, and you WOULD end up picking up pieces.

This is also coming from the same person who said stepping on the gas while the engine is off will flood the Carb. LOL

Don't LOL too hard- again, old-school auto 101. Pumper carbs had a plunger that would inject fuel even with engine off. To help start a cold engine, you'd pump the pedal a couple times to create a very rich condition, and then turn the key. Our engines are unaffected, but it's not just some crazy old coot's notions.

Badot · Feb 15, 2012

toystory_4wd said:
Pumper carbs had a plunger that would inject fuel even with engine off. To help start a cold engine, you'd pump the pedal a couple times to create a very rich condition, and then turn the key. Our engines are unaffected, but it's not just some crazy old coot's notions.

Can't speak for all of them, but my motorcycle also has an accelerator pump... twist the throttle and it puts a little spritz of gas through the carb so the mixture stays okay while the slide/needle is still rising.

jamyers · Feb 16, 2012

toystory_4wd said:
... old-school auto 101. Pumper carbs had a plunger that would inject fuel even with engine off. To help start a cold engine, you'd pump the pedal a couple times to create a very rich condition, and then turn the key. Our engines are unaffected, but it's not just some crazy old coot's notions.

Man that makes me feel old...who'da thought we'd ever be explaining "flooding" an engine?

used2jeep · Feb 16, 2012

Talk about a kick in the gut eh jamyers? Ohy!

jamyers · Feb 16, 2012

used2jeep said:
Talk about a kick in the gut eh jamyers? Ohy!

Eh??? Can't hear you, I'm watching Matlock on tv!!! (where'd the metamucil go...)

I'm gonna go crank up the acetylene torch and melt something. :sifone:

Simple Clone Throttle Setup/Governor Removal

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