Shredded original belt, now poor performance with replacement

[mike96sc2]

Revised: Shredded original belt, now poor performance with replacement

I have a Masters of Motion 601B cart with a 6 5 hp Subaru Robin motor. When. I got it there seemed to be some sort of "slap" coming from the belt and performance felt okay, but a little sluggish.

Recently that belt shredded and I looked at it and saw a lot of the lugs in the belt were gone so that may explain the slap, but I've replaced it with the same belt that the manual references.

Everything fits but there is no power. I can go full throttle and the kart barely moves. Is there something I should be looking at or adjusting with the new belt to make this usable again?

I'm new to the world of go karts and trying to learn rather that pay someone to look at this and charge me more than it's worth.

I've attached photos of the original belt and what it looks like now and the replacement I put on. I did ensure the orientation was correct but it seemed like there was no getting the belt to grab.

 

[itsid]

well post a pic of the belt you got..

there is a very very bad habbit of replacement belts being oddly and at times even incorrectly stamped.
And then you end up with the wrong belt despite you thinking you got the right one.

A common issue is the manco 5959 belt for example
it's ever so slightly longer than the regular 203589A, still some belts have both stamps
And worse.. some chinese replacements take stamps off regular automotive V-belts
or GY6 belts sometimes both!
So it's easy for a novice to get confused and order the wrong belt.

what you very likely do need is indeed said 5959 belt
https://www.gokartsupply.com/5959belt.htm

but in order to know for sure..
please either post the model number of your kart (not the 'name' but the exact model number!)
since decals and names were given to different karts over time.

Or what's likely easier..
post a few good picures of the kart, drivetrain (TC especially)
and the old belt if you still have it.

'sid

PS the series 30 is an asymmetric system, make sure the 'flat side' of the belt points towards the engine (we've seen the arrow markings stamped on the wrong way around)
if there's something wrong.. we need to see it in order to identify the issue
here's a detailed description on how to post pics in case you need it.

 

[Brianator]

detailed description on how to post pics in case you need it.

Hey 'sid is it possible to include the new found ways to get a photo from a mobile device oriented correctly added to that post?

 

[itsid]

brian, drop me a PM with the "new found ways" please, I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to.

mike, you're welcome..
Now that new belt seems to be the right one going by the markings.
that is if you still have the original jackshaft and not swapped to a TavKit.

I'm not too sure the arrow points towards the engine side though
(the visible side seems rather flat on that picture... might be because of the viewing angle)

Now once you ensured the belt is oriented correctly,
you also want to make sure the belt has the correct amount of slack.
to do so, remove the outer part of the driver clutch,
pinch the front end of the belt and pull it forward making sure it stays in the outermost position on the driven unit.
You should now have a gap of 1/8"-3/16" around the shaft and bushing.
else you need to move the engine slightly forward until you do
(w/o moving the jackshaft that is )

Once that's done as well there are two more things to check
1) make sure the clover hub can easily slide inside the moveable shaeave of the driver clutch
and
2) the weights are clean and can be pulled apart under spring tension
add a small amount of drylube after cleaning the clover hub and weights pack
on both contacting surfaces (weights and the inside of the bell)
making absolutely sure the sheaves do not get in contact with any lube (dry or oily)
(if they did, or they've got belt residue/dirt/grime all over them , clean them thoroughly..
maybe with brake cleaner or acetone to degrease everything nice and proper)

Maybe you lost the cloverhub key by accident, else it will start to rotate with the enigne's crank shaft..
and once that's up to speed (1800-2200 rpms) the TC will start to engage onto the belt

if it still doesn't for some reason I cannot imagine atm..
I'd like to ask you to take a short video of it trying to engage
(youtube embedded or linked)
And also take some measurements of the belt
(top width, segment height and warpa atape measure around to let us know it's actual outer circumference)
just to be sure it's not off at some critical value
(should be 3/4" wide, 0.4" thick and have 27.36 - 27.4" OC [which makes it a 217248A belt instead of a 203589A btw... just saying ])

'sid

 

[mike96sc2]

Thank you 'sid for the help. I dry lubed up some components and rolled everything back and forth before I reattached the belt.

Something must have come free or aligned or whatnot. Runs great now.

Next step is looking at the brakes. I am going to dig into the manual and try to teach myself.