Should I remove the governor?

[HyLaMont]

yesterday I pulled the trigger and bought a new predator 212 for my go kart. It’s had a 212 in the past and it worked great until the engine wore out.
The question I have is this: should I take the governor off of it? Is it a noticeable enough difference that it’s worth it?
I’m not looking to make a ton of power but just maybe a little better than stock and I don’t want to spend a ton of money. Just whatever little things that are cheap but keep it reliable.
A second question that goes along is this: If it’s worth it to remove the governor and I remove it. Is there other stuff that I’ll have to do to keep it running good. If there is other stuff I need to do with removing the governor that costs a lot then I’ll probably keep it stock

 

[BrownStainRacing]

yesterday I pulled the trigger and bought a new predator 212 for my go kart. It’s had a 212 in the past and it worked great until the engine wore out.
The question I have is this: should I take the governor off of it? Is it a noticeable enough difference that it’s worth it?
I’m not looking to make a ton of power but just maybe a little better than stock and I don’t want to spend a ton of money. Just whatever little things that are cheap but keep it reliable.
A second question that goes along is this: If it’s worth it to remove the governor and I remove it. Is there other stuff that I’ll have to do to keep it running good. If there is other stuff I need to do with removing the governor that costs a lot then I’ll probably keep it stock

Keep the governor.

There's alot more to these utility engines then JUST removing the gov.

They can and will last a very long time IF properly put together and maintained. The "put together" part is super important. Theres a BIG difference in a stock throwed together roto tiller motor, and a "real" kart race engine.

Learn the basics of a 4 stroke engine, then what it takes for them to pull weight while making more power.

You tube videos make it look simple, but they don't tell you how to make it last.

Here's real kart engines, they don't cost much more then a stock utility motor. You can see the difference for yourself.

BTW, they don't need mods, pods, cams, big carbs, this that, overpriced, useless, unneccessary, parts that you tubers wanna sell you. Jus bolt it on and haul a$$ while laughing at the wanna bees.

Racing Cams and Parts | DUCAR 212 Engine | 212-1000 | DynoCams

The 212 DUCAR Engine is designed to compete in the Predator classes. It features a PVL flywheel, cast iron cylinder sleeve, dual ball bearing block, eliectronic ignition, DUCAR hemi style head, EZ pull start design, ruixing carburetor, and more. | 212-1000

www.dynocams.com

Racing Cams and Parts | Ducar 224cc Stock Engine | 224-1000 | DynoCams

Explore a World of Parts: Find the Components You Need for Your Projects. From Mechanical to Electronic, Discover a Vast Selection of High-Quality Parts to Fuel Your Creativity. | 224-1000

www.dynocams.com

 

[Darren]

Remove the low oil sensor, these are designed for stationary use, when used on mobile stuff ie. go kart the oil sloshes around and cuts out the engine. If you don't want to open up the engine, then just re do the wiring on the front near the engine on off switch, you only require the on off switch to go to the coil, this acts as a basic ground to kill the spark.

 

[Rat]

I happen to have a stock Ducar 212 (only the exhaust and filtration has been altered) and I can tell you that the retail on one is worth it simply because the 200 or so extra spent on it instead wont buy the same performance for ANY Predator212 version PERIOD.

A Ducar is essentially a factory built Predator killer despite their profuse denial of having such intentions.

As for a Predator212 you shouldn't run a stock flywheel without a governor... doing so is basically riding with a live claymore pointed at your crotch that may or may not explode with as little as 4800rpm or hang in there until 7k, but it could let go at any moment spent over the designated 3800rpm max.
THAT MUCH said,
Another problem being your stock 10.8 valve springs are going to float at around 5k if the flywheel doesn't explode first. If you float the valves hard enough for long enough you drop a rod and blow the engine.
That's also still assuming your stock coil doesn't start acting up at 4800 being unable to keep time due toit's internal resistors.

One does not simply delete a governor and then go faster because a gov delete is only going to get you another 1k and another 5-10 mph at best, but ultimately it only gets you nightmares or dead without putting in all the work BEFORE gutting the gov.

 

[Rat]

Remove the low oil sensor, these are designed for stationary use, when used on mobile stuff ie. go kart the oil sloshes around and cuts out the engine. If you don't want to open up the engine, then just re do the wiring on the front near the engine on off switch, you only require the on off switch to go to the coil, this acts as a basic ground to kill the spark.

You don't need to remove anything, just unplug it from the kill switch on the shroud and plug it to itself. It's nothing more than a N/O switch on a float trigger.

 

[HyLaMont]

So if I’m understanding you guys right then what I should do is return the predator engine and get a Ducar 212 and I won’t need to do any modifications to it?

 

[Rat]

So if I’m understanding you guys right then what I should do is return the predator engine and get a Ducar 212 and I won’t need to do any modifications to it?

Ducar governor is preset 5300, and the PVL flywheel they come with is tested and approved for more rpm than you'll ever turn it (17000)

 

[Denny]

Or just enjoy the predator as is.

 

[12348910]

There is also a screw on the throttle lever that you can turn out (lossen) and it will rev higher. I personally won’t go Much more than half way out

 

[HyLaMont]

Or just enjoy the predator as is.

Yeah I think I’ve decided I’ll just stick with the predator. Thanks for your opinions and help everyone