Shock Mount Metal Thickness?

[SquidBonez]

I recently bought some pre-made shock mounts for my custom build. These shock mounts are identical to what you would find on a Yerf Dog. They are made of 1/8" thick metal, which seems sorta thin to me. Should I make my own out of thicker material or will these be fine. This is an off road buggy so it will see all sorts of bumps and small jumps.

UPDATE: see newest post

 

[Denny]

How thick is the steel that the mounts are welded to? If they are more than 1/8” then I would go thicker. If not then I would use the 1/8” thick mounts. Just my opinion.

 

[SquidBonez]

How thick is the steel that the mounts are welded to? If they are more than 1/8” then I would go thicker. If not then I would use the 1/8” thick mounts. Just my opinion.

The tubing I'm using for the frame is also 1/8" thick. The mounts themselves are also 1/8". I'm just worried they'll bend or something.

 

[Denny]

Thicker metal usually tears thinner. That is why I suggest using the same size. It all depends on what you would rather repair. Replace bad mounts or replace bad structural material. It’s you in the seat after all so the decision is totally yours.

 

[SquidBonez]

Thicker metal usually tears thinner. That is why I suggest using the same size. It all depends on what you would rather repair. Replace bad mounts or replace bad structural material. It’s you in the seat after all so the decision is totally yours.

If I had to choose I'd absolutely take having to replace shock mounts rather than the frame itself. Guess I'll go with the Yerf Dog mounts after all.

 

[madprofessor]

Cut a strip of 1/8" flat steel, maybe 6" long (1" wide??), or whatever will fit. Weld it up good, sistered along the tubing, then weld your 1/8" mounts to that. Reinforces your tubing, provides nice spot for mounts. You can sister small pieces to the sides of the shock mounts too.

 

[SquidBonez]

Cut a strip of 1/8" flat steel, maybe 6" long (1" wide??), or whatever will fit. Weld it up good, sistered along the tubing, then weld your 1/8" mounts to that. Reinforces your tubing, provides nice spot for mounts. You can sister small pieces to the sides of the shock mounts too.

I think I'm actually going to drill a hole in a piece if 1/8" wall square tubing (the stuff I'm using for the entire frame) and have that be a mount. Should be a lot stronger than just a piece of 1/8" steel bent in a U shape (which is essentially what these pre-made mounts are).

 

[Snaker]

You want to have your intended shock setup on hand as well because its something of a package.
Make sure all the dimensions are compatible
Have the shock in place to test throughout the travel (removing the coil spring makes things easier).
Make sure to allow for the shock rotation/pivoting giving necessary clearance.

If your pre bought mounts will fit but seem thin to you, you can weld flat washers at the mounting holes, either inside or outside depending on dimensions.
That puts the extra thickness where it is most needed and works as a wear pad for the shock contact area.

 

[SquidBonez]

If your pre bought mounts will fit but seem thin to you, you can weld flat washers at the mounting holes, either inside or outside depending on dimensions.
That puts the extra thickness where it is most needed and works as a wear pad for the shock contact area.

That's actually a really cool idea. Never thought of doing that.

 

[madprofessor]

you can weld flat washers at the mounting holes

Very cool idea indeed, forgot about that, great way to shim a good fit, and use of oversize washers where possible makes it even stronger. My OCD way of thinking keeps me remembering the weaker spot of thin metal welded to thin metal though, where washers aren't helping.

 

[Bigblockguy]

I used 3/8 for mine. As well as the spring spindle brackets and the gussets on the spindles themselves. I also have access to industrial welding equipment though. I figure if I break any of those parts, I'll probably have a broken neck or back as well.

 

[Denny]

I used 3/8 for mine. As well as the spring spindle brackets and the gussets on the spindles themselves. I also have access to industrial welding equipment though. I figure if I break any of those parts, I'll probably have a broken neck or back as well.

Neither of those is fun. I had both.

 

[Bigblockguy]

Neither of those is fun. I had both.

I can imagine. But my point stands. As long as you can weld it and the base youre welding it to can take it, the more robust you make it the better.

 

[Denny]

I can imagine. But my point stands. As long as you can weld it and the base youre welding it to can take it, the more robust you make it the better.

I totally agree. But if you are welding to thinner material the thinner material will break first is all I’m saying.

 

[FabnOkie]

I totally agree. But if you are welding to thinner material the thinner material will break first is all I’m saying.

i agree with Denny. i would use the same size as the frame thickness