She asked Santa for a Kitty Kat

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OzFab

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Gearing is my #1 concern, you are restricted by the tracks as to what size sprocket you can use so, all the gearing needs to be figured out before you get there. Canyou determine the pitch of the sprocket & get a tooth count? I'm guessing it'll be somewhere in the 30s & maybe #40/41 pitch. Do you still have the drive sprocket?
 

Agent_Orange

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the donor snow blower housing for the augers has a nice shape


to make a set of these


another view of the skiis


mocked up on the spindles


so between the cutting grinding and welding i'm an hour of labor into each ski, but they should function well once I get some skags/wear bars made up and bolted. I'm seriously considering welding the spindles to the ski, but common sense says spent the time to engineer in the mounts and safety (anti flip) of the mounts.

one more pic
 

Sparkart88

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well then, there you have it : 11 :D

12 would end up in a 7.33:1, 13 in 6.77, 14 in 6.29, 15 in 5.87:1
speedwise that'd be about 1 mph more per added tooth (in this range)
11: 9 mph to 15: 13 mph

'sid

[EDIT]
just two more things:
1) now that you're here... we want pictures, build logs and if possible videos :D
So be prepared to document what you're doing :D
2) On the bottom of your posts, there's an edit button, use it if you want to add something rather than double post (the Mods don't like it very much ;))

Agreed :thumbsup:
 

Agent_Orange

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skiis have been drilled to accept 1/2" spindles and now I need to die the spindle ends so I can put on bolts. anyone have a tap n die set I can borrow?

might have to borrow a set from the auto parts store but in all likelihood i'll end up buying it so I have them for later :idea2:
 

Agent_Orange

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Tap n die set was idea to get the skiis mounted to the spindles but I opted to go with collar set screws and counter sunk the spindle for a nice nest for the set screw to settle into. I put lock washers on the inner side of the skiis to put outward pressure on them to keep the ski snug against spindle side. minimize lateral movement but still allow a wee bit o play. time for a beer

:cheers2:
 

Agent_Orange

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i had to source out a bunch of drive train parts but this is what I came up with running a 35 chain and 5/8 JS...

PTO sprocket. 15 T. $15. McMaster-Carr
JS w/ bearings. . $30. GoKart Supply
JS in sprocket. 22 T. $16 Mcmaster-Carr
Clutch on JS. 11 T. $28. Amazon
Drive sprocket. 45T. $15 McMaster-Carr

my math takes me to exactly 6:1 :wai:

now I need to actually get the parts
 

firemanjim

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Dumb question...... If you put wheels/tires on the front instead of skis, can she ride that year round? You know, like a track driven reverse trike? Do the track drives work on/in dirt/mud/small rocks...... ?
 

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firemanjim

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Yeah, me likey pic #2 also..... That will be a cool little bike you got there. Your daughter should have a blast.....
 

Agent_Orange

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I'll keep it PG for eveyone (plus i don't want to get banned)

up date. McMaster-Car drive sprocket, axle sprocket and JS sprocket. need to order the JS and the clutch now. in the time being i am covering the front of the sled in sheet metal to give it more of a sled shape. pics up soon.
 

OzFab

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If the JS is the same speed as the engine PTO then you should be ok but, doing so will reduce the gearing potential, ie: if the gearing between the clutch & drive sprocket is too high, you're left with very few options; if the clutch is on the PTO, you have the capacity to swich sprocket on the JS to adjust gearing
 

Scout

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If the JS is the same speed as the engine PTO then you should be ok but, doing so will reduce the gearing potential, ie: if the gearing between the clutch & drive sprocket is too high, you're left with very few options; if the clutch is on the PTO, you have the capacity to swich sprocket on the JS to adjust gearing

I think he means to put the clutch on the js rather than on the engine, and are there any reasons not to other than the chain spinning all the time?

I don't see an issue if a chain guard is used.
 
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