secondary kill switch for clone?

[kendelrk]

i was thinking, instead of having to reach down for the kill switch on the shroud, is there anyway i could wire one up so i have the clone one on the shroud as the main switch, , and then a push button one on the handle bars, for emergency's, is there anyways this could be done?

 

[Rustydog2010]

Yea why not? Just splice into the two wires that run to the original kill switch on the shroud and mount your remote one where ever you want.

Jeremy.

 

[redsox985]

Like Rusty said, cut one wire going into the factory kill and strip its ends. Add wires the lead to the new kill and the BAM! you have 2 kills. 1 to use while riding and a second if it takes off while starting.

 

[kendelrk]

so i would take the one thats ground for the shroud, cut and strip those into two wires, then connect the wires from the secondry and first together and it would work great?

 

[devino246]

i was thinking, instead of having to reach down for the kill switch on the shroud, is there anyway i could wire one up so i have the clone one on the shroud as the main switch, , and then a push button one on the handle bars, for emergency's, is there anyways this could be done?

DONT use a momentary switch. Sometimes the engine can restart when you release the button.

 

[kendelrk]

then what would be a cheaper switch than that?

 

[redsox985]

Just a toggle style switch. Here's mine.

 

[kendelrk]

how much did you pay for the switch?

 

[devino246]

how much did you pay for the switch?

It should be like $2.50. Momentaries and toggles are around the same price.

 

[kendelrk]

then ill look for that tommarow

 

[redsox985]

Mine was free! I built my kart at school so I just walked over to the Robotics/Electronics room and asked the teacher for a toggle switch. He loved the kart build and gladly gave me one. Once it was rolling, he actually had 3 of us push him around the halls on it. He weighs well over 300lbs.

 

[Gator]

if you have a clone i suggest this.

my daughters kart has a 6.5 clone, and i have disabled the low oil sensor, this is a great place to splice into for a kill swich. On her kart i used a horn button from autozone and mounted it on the middle of her steering wheel, where it would be only a few inches from her hands if she got in trouble. On the engine you will see the yellow wires coming from the oil sensor, unplug the factory wire connector and then ground that wire on metal, if it kills the eng then thats the rite one, (its not the wire coming out of the sensor itself once unplugged), but the other.

the horn button has a place for 2 wires, one goes to a ground and the other goes to the oil sensor wire that you found earlier.

A good thing about using the sensor is, you can use a momentary swich like a horn button, and it will kill the engine as soon as the button is pressed or tapped and not refire like if you were grounding the coil, once the sensor sees ground it is dead untill restarted with the rope.

I also done this ony my 11hp clone but used a toggle switch cause it was already on the kart.

 

[kendelrk]

so i would cut wire from the oil sensor, strip it and set the kill switch on the frame, wire one end to the wire and one end to a peice of metal such as the handle bars and it would work as a kill switch?

 

[redsox985]

I wouldn't mess with the oil sensor as I don't think anyone else has tried this and we know that splicing a switch into the leads going to the kill switch will work. I feel that if you simply extend the wires for the low oil sensor and complete the circuit again, you will have cutting out issues with the low oil sensor as if it was still hooked up.

 

[kendelrk]

is there two leads coming from that one wire?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Just a quick note here- If you tie into the existing kill circuit in series like described above, you will have to leave the factory kill switch in the "off" position in order for the new switch to ground the circuit when activated. Otherwise, the new switch will not ground thru the circuit. So- if you forget and leave the factory switch on and have a karting mishap, hitting your new kill switch will NOT kill the engine- DANGER!

A better way to do it is parallel wiring. Go ahead and cut and strip the ends of the lead that goes from the coil to the factory kill switch. Take a new length of wire, strip one end and attach it to the ends of the coil wire you just stripped- so you're reconnecting the coil wire you cut, and added a new wire. Solder and tape or heat shrink that connection. Run that new wire forward to your new switch and attach it to one terminal of the switch. Now, run a wire from the other terminal of that new switch directly from a good ground, like your steering column support.

In this configuration, put both switches in the "on" position. Now to shut off the engine, you can use whichever switch you like. Just remember to make sure both are "on" before attempting to start the engine.

 

[redsox985]

Just a quick note here- If you tie into the existing kill circuit in series like described above, you will have to leave the factory kill switch in the "off" position in order for the new switch to ground the circuit when activated. Otherwise, the new switch will not ground thru the circuit. So- if you forget and leave the factory switch on and have a karting mishap, hitting your new kill switch will NOT kill the engine- DANGER!

A better way to do it is parallel wiring. Go ahead and cut and strip the ends of the lead that goes from the coil to the factory kill switch. Take a new length of wire, strip one end and attach it to the ends of the coil wire you just stripped- so you're reconnecting the coil wire you cut, and added a new wire. Solder and tape or heat shrink that connection. Run that new wire forward to your new switch and attach it to one terminal of the switch. Now, run a wire from the other terminal of that new switch directly from a good ground, like your steering column support.

In this configuration, put both switches in the "on" position. Now to shut off the engine, you can use whichever switch you like. Just remember to make sure both are "on" before attempting to start the engine.

Are you sure? I get the feeling that if you tie it in to one of the leads into the factory kill, both will need to be in the on position to start because you would need to open both switches so that current can flow and if either is flipped off and the current is broken in that switch, the motor would die as the current would be interrupted. Let me go "paint" this up!

EDIT: Here's my thought!

 

[Doc Sprocket]

It's not a matter of STOPPING the current to kill the engine. The factory kill switches work by COMPLETING a ground circuit to the coil.

 

[redsox985]

I'm not a master of this here so I'd take TS's advice. With mine, I cut on either side of the factory kill and extended those wires up to the steering column support and added a new switch, so I really didn't change anything. My factory kill is just mounted to the housing with 2 little stubs of unconnected wire sticking out.

 

[Gator]

I wouldn't mess with the oil sensor as I don't think anyone else has tried this and we know that splicing a switch into the leads going to the kill switch will work. I feel that if you simply extend the wires for the low oil sensor and complete the circuit again, you will have cutting out issues with the low oil sensor as if it was still hooked up.

not true, the oil sensor probe itself is unplugged and will not shut the engine down for low oil or ruff terrain.

If you are looking at the sensor probe coming out of the block on the front of the engine all it has is the 2" pig tail. So the sensor here is simply unplugged, where the factory quick connector is.

I will have to post some pics today if i get a chance, this is very simple.


Find the sensor probe coming out the front of the engine, the sensor probe has a yellow wire coming from it.

The yellow wire coming out of the sensor has a factory male/female quick connector. the other end runs to the oil sensor box.

Unhook the wire here. rite between the box and the probe.

The sensor probe will now have just a 2" pigtail hanging there, leave it alone, and let it hang.

The other wire hanging there from the oil sensor box, that you just unhooked from the male/female connector is the wire you want. If you start the engine then simply ground this wire it will kill the engine.

Run that wire to one side of a switch, and run a ground to the other side of the switch. Unless you have a self grounding switch, just run the one wire from the oil sensor box to the switch.


All you are doing here is using the factory oil kill switch wire, the sensor probe is not involved anymore, you flipping the switch is the same as if you were low on oil and all the factory oil sensor wiring was left intact.

The oil sensor from the factory just throws a ground when oil is not present or around the sensor probe, throw a ground manually to the wire, (ie. a switch) and the engine will die.