Running a Comet 40 series with yellow spring

[bullseye670]

I'm having alignment issues with my torque converter. I'm setting up a 40 series torque converter, running it away from the engine, using the yellow spring. When I align the back flat plat of the pulleys, The belt looks off.
I think I am going to have to offset the driven pully a bit.
I'm looking for anyone who is familiar with running the 40 series in this fashion. I've enclosed a photo.
Just looking for input.
(The photo shows a red spring but I have installed a yellow spring.)

 

[redflash]

You either need to move the motor to starboard or the jackshaft to port......the are currently misaligned, so it ain't gonna work this way !

Da redflash

 

[panchothedog]

Hey bullseye, you have a 2nd problem you probably don't know existed. On your driven clutch you need to install a reverse wound spring. In the picture you posted it is clear that the cams ( points ) on the out most part of the clutch are behind the plastic buttons. They need to be in front. Other wise the clutch will open up and go into high gear as soon as power is applied. The reverse wound spring will fix that. Inexpensive and easy to install. The driver clutch that sits on the engine crankshaft can be flipped ( turned around, bell side in ) to help with belt alignment. It will work fine like that. I have a kart with a 40 series torque converter on it so I am NOT GUESSING at this advice I am giving you.

 

[bullseye670]

Thanks panchothedog. I put the yellow soring on the driven the other day. Yes, the tabs are now correct. That pic that I posted was from my mock- up. I am trying to set up the alignment before I weld up the jackshaft. I have already moved the driven outboard a tiny bit. I am making sure I put a few machine bushing on the shaft so I will be able to move things either way after the weld up.
In that photo, the back sheaves are lined up like a 30 series would be. But I believe the angle on them is less. Moving the driven a slight bit outboard seemed to align things up pretty good.

 

[panchothedog]

Just put of curiosity what are you running for a engine.

 

[bullseye670]

It will be getting a Honda Gx390. Racing head,(designed for torque), governor delete, billet flywheel, rod, Mikuni flatslide carb, and a few other goodies.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

It will be getting a Honda Gx390. Racing head,(designed for torque), governor delete, billet flywheel, rod, Mikuni flatslide carb, and a few other goodies.

That thing is gonna scream.

 

[bullseye670]

Yeah. I think a stock GX390 would be good enough, but what the heck! I am just enjoying tinkering with something. I've been waiting for the head to get finished. There was an issue getting the valves for it. Everyone was out of them. I'm going to start the motor build very soon. I'm just trying to make sure I get the transmission alignment issues correct before I get into the engine build. This has been a great way to keep busy. Here's a pic of the GX200 I built. I wanted to up the ante a bit so I went to a big block.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

That’s purdy! You like to build ‘em right, I can tell.

 

[bullseye670]

Thak You Sir! And yes I do!

 

[Snaker]

I'm having alignment issues with my torque converter. I'm setting up a 40 series torque converter, running it away from the engine, using the yellow spring. When I align the back flat plat of the pulleys, The belt looks off.
I think I am going to have to offset the driven pully a bit.
I'm looking for anyone who is familiar with running the 40 series in this fashion. I've enclosed a photo.
Just looking for input.
(The photo shows a red spring but I have installed a yellow spring.)

That setup is essentially wrong.
Lots of people apparently do it and claim it works fine, I don't know.
I see it as a compromise at best and a problem that gets bigger with higher hp.
High hp won't put up with that.

The offset your showing may be as good as any with that orientation.
Keep in mind that the belt at drive pulley will move inboard during up shift and the belt at driven pulley will move outboard during upshift.
So misalignment will reduce or possible reverse to the other side at shiftout.
Just guessing but I could see the high speed shiftout being more problematic than low speed when it comes to running misaligned

But you mentioned the driven mounted on a jackshaft
The best thing you could do is reverse the driven if at all possible
Then you have to reconsider your spring wind and helix orientation.

 

[bullseye670]

I understand your concerns with this set-up. Unfortunately, I have some space issues. The best option I see i to try and run it this way. This is the set-up on the 285 dingo that I'm restoring. There isn't much space in front of the engine for a jackshaft. My 388 Dingo has the jackshaft in front of the motor. That is the way I was hoping to set this up but I don't think there's any other way right now.

 

[Snaker]

Hey bullseye, you have a 2nd problem you probably don't know existed. On your driven clutch you need to install a reverse wound spring. In the picture you posted it is clear that the cams ( points ) on the out most part of the clutch are behind the plastic buttons. They need to be in front. Other wise the clutch will open up and go into high gear as soon as power is applied. The reverse wound spring will fix that. Inexpensive and easy to install. The driver clutch that sits on the engine crankshaft can be flipped ( turned around, bell side in ) to help with belt alignment. It will work fine like that. I have a kart with a 40 series torque converter on it so I am NOT GUESSING at this advice I am giving you.

I have seen a few video's of people flipping the 40 series drive and they also claim it works good.

Sidenote:
There does seem to be some confusion of people trying to flip the 44 series but find that the 44 series is designed differently and can not flipped.
I believe its accurate to say the 40 series can be flipped but the 44 series can not.
Don't know about the 20 series or larger series.

 

[panchothedog]

Hey bullseye, sounds like you have the alignment issue solved. In questioning the Grey Goat ( Eric Adams ) at OMB Warehouse (where I bought my 40series )
Someone who in my book knows an awful lot about this hobby, he told me the alignment on the 40's was not as critical as on the 30 series. Having to do with the sheaves on the 40's being symmetrical as opposed to the 30's having a different angle on each side. So if you're hopping up your engine, let me tell you that the spring and weight package that's available for the 40 drivers is money well spent. Together they raise engagement RPM to 2600. With a built predator 301 I could hardly believe the difference. Really woke it up.

 

[bullseye670]

That's interesting. Perhaps I should look into the weight package.

 

[panchothedog]

In post # 6 you list out your intended mods. Don't forget a after market cam.

 

[bullseye670]

Yeah, I forgot to list that. The cam is a 280 camshaft from NRRACING. "The Torque Cam - Massive Amount of Low End Power for Marine, Mini Bikes, and Small Tracks".

Now everything I type is bold. What the heck? Anyway, this is actually a list of the engine build for my red 388 Dingo. On it, I have plenty of room to run the 40 series in the intended direction. It will be a very similar list for the one (265)that I have am doing a restoration on. My larger 388 really didn't need anything. I did some upgrades anyway. Doing 2 projects at the same time is a bit daunting. I'm going to concentrate on the 388 engine build shortly. My head should be in this week.

 

[bullseye670]

Just an update. I recently picked up another 388 Dingo so I am scrapping my plans to put a gx390 on a 285 Dingo. I won't be trying run a 40 series backwards now. I've go 2 karts now with a 40 series torque converter and I think that my build on the 288 will be fine with a built gx200 on it instead. Plenty of room on there for that and no torque converter alignment issues to solve.

 

[Gilbos440rt]

lol just learned about the tav 40 driven today as I went for 1st test drive , was a real short one before the pulley went full open and stuck my belt under the studs in the pulley at barely part throttle. Ordered a yellow reverse wound spring, my Murray Kilowatt’s jackshaft wouldn’t allow me to flip the driven pulley I’m afraid. Good site!