Rookie

[vinijackson]

Hi from Vermont. I recently purchased an X machine and a Manco Dingo. Both run and are drivable. Both need some TLC ... one begins breaking up at high speeds and needs 30-40 feet to make a U-turn. The other needs a belt or an adjustment to the clutch. I work as a machinist and am fortunate in that I can make things that I can no longer purchase, for example, when I first purchased the X Machine one of the front spindles had been broken then weld repaired which broke again prior to my purchase. I turned down the spindle end to remove the weld and welded it properly now works great! My stepson loves it!! I hope to find help with these projects and offer help if I can to others.

 

[OzFab]

Welcome to the forum; I'm sure we can help you sort out any problems you may have; can you expand on the

...breaking up at high speeds

comment?

As for

needs 30-40 feet to make a U-turn.

that's usually a case of live axle vs poor steering geometry...

 

[firemanjim]

Being a machinist helps, when it comes to one-off custom parts,

 

[vinijackson]

Sure firemanjim, On the X machine , if the accelerator is on the floor, after a bit, the engine begins to "break up" not run smoothly and there is a loss of some power. The carb and gas are both clean. the float had been repaired with a clear substance that looks like cured model cement. I may need to replace it or make a new one?
As for the steering? I am not sure why anyone would put tie rods through the upper and lower controll arm? if the front end bounces up and down the tie rods get pinched and the steering radius is cut down by 80%. I will have to invent something better or find out what the original steering system looks like.

 

[firemanjim]

Sounds like you need a new float, they're cheap......
Post some pics of your kart. Maybe we can see the problem so you're not just guessing....

 

[Poboy kartman]

Welcome to the forum and thanks so much for filling out your profile! !!!!

I hope you will get all the help you need here...... (pretty sure you will. .....).....

 

[OzFab]

On the X machine , if the accelerator is on the floor, after a bit, the engine begins to "break up" not run smoothly and there is a loss of some power. The carb and gas are both clean. the float had been repaired with a clear substance that looks like cured model cement. I may need to replace it or make a new one?

Sounds like you need a new float, they're cheap.....

Maybe, maybe not; if the governor has been removed & the engine is revving around 5000rpm, it's probably valve bounce... but, I'm only speculating at this point...

 

[vinijackson]

The pictures I can post Sunday night. As for the float... I am trying to find out what it has for a carb. A tech sheet I saw on line says it came stock with a PD245 Carb which means nothing to me.

 

[firemanjim]

You have a Corundum pd245 carb. It came as factory carb for 125cc-150cc engines from what could tell with a quick search. And Honda uses that carb for its atvs......

 

[davidbooth1991]

Sure firemanjim, On the X machine , if the accelerator is on the floor, after a bit, the engine begins to "break up" not run smoothly and there is a loss of some power. The carb and gas are both clean. the float had been repaired with a clear substance that looks like cured model cement. I may need to replace it or make a new one?
As for the steering? I am not sure why anyone would put tie rods through the upper and lower controll arm? if the front end bounces up and down the tie rods get pinched and the steering radius is cut down by 80%. I will have to invent something better or find out what the original steering system looks like.

The tie rods to my buggy build are in between top and bottom. A-arms.and they seem fine. But your right if your a arm bounces on that tie rod your scrwed.the way I did it was to get the tie rod as close to the bottom
arm as you can. That way you maximise space between the arms....

 

[vinijackson]

Photo's of my steering system

 

[OzFab]

Great pics but, I think we need to see some more, maybe some with the steering turned & not as close...

The whole setup appears to be very similar to that on my small ATV & it seems to work ok...

 

[firemanjim]

Unless something changes drastically when you turn, I don't see why you're having trouble.....

 

[vinijackson]

If I go straight then turn left only the left wheel turns fully to the left the right wheel and if I turn right only the right wheel turns fully to the right. The opposite wheel continues straight.
Maybe the tie rod ends need adjusting?

 

[davidbooth1991]

??? If you turn the wheel right ONLY the right wheel turns..and vice versa???? I need to put my thinking cap on !!!

 

[Poboy kartman]

??? If you turn the wheel right ONLY the right wheel turns..and vice versa???? I need to put my thinking cap on !!!

I wanna borrow it when you get through. .....ARE YOU KIDDING ME?.......

UM MMMMMMMMM.....yeah......IM STUMPED! !!!! Why wouldn't that work?????

 

[OzFab]

If I go straight then turn left only the left wheel turns fully to the left the right wheel and if I turn right only the right wheel turns fully to the right. The opposite wheel continues straight.
Maybe the tie rod ends need adjusting?

... & that's what I'm talking about, we need to see that in pics...

I get the feeling the tierods aren't adjusted correctly but, it could be more than that...

 

[Poboy kartman]

... & that's what I'm talking about, we need to see that in pics...

I get the feeling the tierods aren't adjusted correctly but, it could be more than that...

It's worse than that. ....to let him tell it......only one wheel turns.....and the other stays straight. .....I'd have to call this the witless protection program loaner kart. ......

 

[firemanjim]

Looking at the pics again, I think I see a few problems leading to your dilema.....
Your tie rods are bent/bowed, but I suspect "manual modification" caused this. Either intentionally by human hand or by hitting the shock, during that wheels inward turn. It doesn't not appear that there is much clearance for the rod, in a full turn. It looks like the rod will hit the shock, preventing much travel, but only on an inward turn. Outward, it would travel away from the shock and go closer to the frame. (just my thoughts. Better pics would confirm or deny this)
Your right outer tie rod end is bent..... Inward, towards the center line of the axle plane. This, to me, is another indicator that your rod is hitting the shock. The other rod ends may be bent as well..... BUT then again, I could very well be wrong on all of this. Pics full turn left, right, and straight forward, from directly above, would help figure all this out in quick fashion......

 

[davidbooth1991]

I think we need a video bro....
The only possible physical way of that happening is if only one tie rod is connected but then that just wouldn't work because there both coneceted. Lmao!!! Surely if your tie rods are bolted to the pitman arm and then to the spindle it must move....but why only in one direction. I'd pull it all out and start over.......