Robin Subaru EX17 6.5 HP Need more power

[Doc Sprocket]

Yo! Hold on... WHICH screw, and why?

 

[OzFab]

No one else has mentione it so I guess I will: You can also replace the stock air filter with a hi flow unit

 

[Doc Sprocket]

No one else has mentione it so I guess I will: You can also replace the stock air filter with a hi flow unit

LOL- Hey Fab!>

Power improvements are pretty much standard no matter which engine you have. The first steps are usually a free-flowing exhaust (like a straight pipe instead of a muffler), a free-flowing aftermarket air intake, and a larger carburetor main jet usually goes with those to deliver more fuel to meet the additional engine demands.

 

[Najuto9tail]

I ended up removing the air filter foam because it decomposed and parts of it went in to the carb. I had to leave choke opened for it to work properly. I ended up spraying the carb with carburetor cleaner cleaned it as much as I could and then left it with out any filter. When I turned the engine on(first pull) it backfired 3 times then it went normal.


You asked me the screw I mentioned about the governor?

One last point here- For those that may not yet be ready to dive into their engine and come out with a handful of governor parts- Some engines (most notably Hondas and clones) have a VERY user-friendly means of governor adjustment. This adjustment is designed to fine-tune the governed speed to spec, but makes it super easy to gain a few hundred RPM- usually you can bring your GOVERNED MAX to 4000-4200 RPM with the turn of a screw. Your governor will still do it's job, but you'll run a little faster. Locate the manual throttle control on your engine- the little lever you would slide to increase or decrease RPM if you didn't have a remote throtte (gas pedal). Behind that lever is a screw with a spring wrapped around it- Notice how the throttle rests against the tip of that screw when you move the lever to the "fastest" position? Great. Remove that screw. Presto- instant maximum RPM increase- no fuss, no muss.

Copied from your sticky.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Okay- we're getting our thoughts crossed all over the place here... Limiter caps are used on some CARBURETOR screws. That's why I was asking which screw you were trying to meddle with.

If you're talking about the governor adjust screw -IF you have one- there should be no anti-tamper devices on there. Have you located the governor screw?

 

[OzFab]

No one else has mentioned it so I guess I will: You can also replace the stock air filter with a hi flow unit

LOL- Hey Fab!>

Power improvements are pretty much standard no matter which engine you have. The first steps are usually a free-flowing exhaust (like a straight pipe instead of a muffler), a free-flowing aftermarket air intake, and a larger carburetor main jet usually goes with those to deliver more fuel to meet the additional engine demands.

Hey, that wasn't there before

 

[Najuto9tail]

I got you guys confused with all my questions. :/ Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Anytime. Are we getting it straight now? Oh- and be sure to check this link!

 

[Najuto9tail]

First I will try to get the torque tube, then I will check the governor if it can be adjusted or if not remove the gear and the last thing to check out is the carb. This is my plan.

 

[jamyers]

Jammy- what do you mean? I just skimmed through this, and it looks pretty straightforward to me!?

I mean if you try and swap out the Subaru carb for one off of a Honda or Clone, the carb mounting bolts are oriented differently. The Subaru bolts go into the manifold level with each other, Honda/Clone carb bolts are not - one bolt is higher than the other one.
Subaru (and everybody else's carb)

Honda / Clone carb:

Now if you wanted to swap the Subaru carb for most any other carb, you'd be ok because most other carb's have horizontal (level with each other) mounting bolt holes.

Yeah I saw it on the other thread that you said something about that. From that I got the idea of not messing with the screw. The safest way is to pry it out with a flat head screw driver? What about pulling it with pliers?

Flathead screwdriver is how I broke it...if I had it to do over again, I'd cut the ears that actually limit the screw off and leave the rest of the plastic head on. If I couldn't do that, I'd prolly leave it alone unless the plastic cap was loose on the screw, or I absolutely HAD to get the screw out (if I could get carb cleaner to spray out of the idle mix hole inside the carb throat, I'd likely leave well enough alone.)

 

[Najuto9tail]

I mean if you try and swap out the Subaru carb for one off of a Honda or Clone, the carb mounting bolts are oriented differently. The Subaru bolts go into the manifold level with each other, Honda/Clone carb bolts are not - one bolt is higher than the other one.
Subaru (and everybody else's carb)

Honda / Clone carb:

Now if you wanted to swap the Subaru carb for most any other carb, you'd be ok because most other carb's have horizontal (level with each other) mounting bolt holes.


Flathead screwdriver is how I broke it...if I had it to do over again, I'd cut the ears that actually limit the screw off and leave the rest of the plastic head on. If I couldn't do that, I'd prolly leave it alone unless the plastic cap was loose on the screw, or I absolutely HAD to get the screw out (if I could get carb cleaner to spray out of the idle mix hole inside the carb throat, I'd likely leave well enough alone.)

Yeah the honda carbs are different. My friend which I use to run gokart with have a honda 5hp engine he had to add a manifold to a 150cc scooter carb so it would work with his honda engine. His engine beats the crap out of mine leaving me far behind... He has a straight tube for exhaust, a scooter carb, no air filter... I want to change my carb because it is giving me problems the motor tries to turn off on idle.

 

[OzFab]

That's the same problem landuse had on his rebuild; he had an adaptor made that only took 4 months

 

[Najuto9tail]

What about this Craftsman 8 hp 9 hp HMSK80 HMSK90 Snowking Snowblower CARB

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Personally, I'd shop for a Series 1 Tecumseh carb, or go all out on a Mikuni or something. If you're going to go to the trouble of swapping carbs, you might just as well get one with some potential for tuning.

An old pre-EPA carb like the Series 1 Tec allows you to adjust the high speed mixture with the turn of a thumbscrew. A Mikuni or similar will have you buying jets and needles to match your needs.

 

[Najuto9tail]

I will take apart my engine tomorrow, Today I ran my kart and had to replace the spark again... Engine backfired and then it would not turn on. I changed the spark and it turned on. Running the kart I throttle the gas and sometimes it lacks power.. I will try to clean the carb better than last time and see if that is the problem.

 

[fowler]

u know u can clean the spark plugs

if u are destroying plugs really quickly then the engine is running realy lean or really hot
u should get 50hrs out of a plug no trouble

if the plug is destroyed and the engine is running lean then the carb is likely dirty

if the plug is just blackened and drity then the engine may be running too rich
then the air filter may be blocked or the needle in the carb isnt seating
or the float isnt closeing the needle off enough

do u mean it back fires as in though the carb or are u getting a little pop out the exhaust

 

[landuse]

That's the same problem landuse had on his rebuild; he had an adaptor made that only took 4 months

Before posting I wanted to read through the whole thread to see if someone had mentioned it. Guess you beat me to it again again. The only consolation I have is that I was sitting pretty on a beach when you were posting.

Yes, I had the same problem with my original carb having horisontal mounting holes, and my new clone carb having ofset mounting holes. I rectified the problem by having an adaptor quickly whipped up for me by a machinist I know .

If you want more info, have a look at my engine rebuild thread which I FINALLY got finished.

 

[Najuto9tail]

u know u can clean the spark plugs

if u are destroying plugs really quickly then the engine is running realy lean or really hot
u should get 50hrs out of a plug no trouble

if the plug is destroyed and the engine is running lean then the carb is likely dirty

if the plug is just blackened and drity then the engine may be running too rich
then the air filter may be blocked or the needle in the carb isnt seating
or the float isnt closeing the needle off enough

do u mean it back fires as in though the carb or are u getting a little pop out the exhaust

The exhaust gives some pops running, The carb is giving me problems. The motor does not idle right. Sometimes it lacks power. I will disassemble the carb and clean it better than last time.

 

[landuse]

The exhaust gives some pops running, The carb is giving me problems. The motor does not idle right. Sometimes it lacks power. I will disassemble the carb and clean it better than last time.

Give it a good old boil in lemon juice and poke the holes out thoroughly with bread twist ties or something similar

How to clean a carburetor the right way (with lemon juice)
http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Clean-a-Motorcycle-Carburetor,-The-Right-Way&id=1460030
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=11976&highlight=lemon+juice

 

[Najuto9tail]

I have a lemons tree next to my house What about using pure lemon? I have not tried the lemon juice method, I have only used carb cleaner. Should I use CRC Formula 6-56 Lubricant after cleaning?