OzFab
Well-known member
Of course it's possible, they're rather common...
Rizzy's rebuild
- Thread starter Rizzy
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Of course it's possible, they're rather common...
I went looking through MFG and all I can seem to find are splitrims.
But in other news the kart is primer'd. Tomorrow I load it up to hopefully get a new floorpan welded into place.
OzFab
Well-known member
Thank you. I didn't know bout that site. Any other sites I need to become friends with?
And in other news I got the new floor pan welded into place today. Ended up taking it to a exhaust shop. I used a nice thick plate of steel.
Also pulled the steering apart and these are what I'm going to work on buying new next.
Oh and is the steering shaft from the steering wheel down suppose to be welded into place? Reason I'm asking is the bar is bent and somebody welded it together so I can't pull it apart to fix it.
And in other news I got the new floor pan welded into place today. Ended up taking it to a exhaust shop. I used a nice thick plate of steel.
Also pulled the steering apart and these are what I'm going to work on buying new next.
Oh and is the steering shaft from the steering wheel down suppose to be welded into place? Reason I'm asking is the bar is bent and somebody welded it together so I can't pull it apart to fix it.
OzFab
Well-known member
Why replace the spindles, what's wrong with them?
In most cases, yes, the steering shaft has a pitman arm welded to the bottom & a flange at the top...
In most cases, yes, the steering shaft has a pitman arm welded to the bottom & a flange at the top...
Well right now I'm looking at replacing him due to them being as old and worn as they are. I'm pull them apart tomorrow and check them out more indepth.
But the reason I asked bout the steering shaft is because mine is welded at the pitman arms. And then right above it you have the flange that holds the shaft where it needs to be. Then a small metal peice that seems to be welded in place. Then at the top of the shaft the steering wheel plate is welded down also.
I'll get a few pictures tomorrow when it is light out and show you what I mean. But the places it is welded makes it so I can't remove the steering shaft.
But the reason I asked bout the steering shaft is because mine is welded at the pitman arms. And then right above it you have the flange that holds the shaft where it needs to be. Then a small metal peice that seems to be welded in place. Then at the top of the shaft the steering wheel plate is welded down also.
I'll get a few pictures tomorrow when it is light out and show you what I mean. But the places it is welded makes it so I can't remove the steering shaft.
OzFab
Well-known member
There's not much can go wrong with them, I think you'll find they have beatings between the stub axle & the hub. Depending on the condition of the stub axle, they should be salvagable with some cleaning & new bearings...
If you like but, there's no need, most karts are the same. Is the bend interfering with its movement? If not, why not simply leave it alone. If it is, perhaps you can try straightening it where it is...
OzFab
Well-known member
Ok, maybe you'd better post some pics of it then, there may be a simple fix...
We've decided we're going to change the steering shaft out for a 24" shaft so that my little brother can drive the kart as well cause even with the seat moved fully forward he won't reach the pedals.
Right now we need the plastic bushings to keep the steering from being wobbly.
I've been looking on different sites and have only been finding bushings for suspension only.
Right now we need the plastic bushings to keep the steering from being wobbly.
I've been looking on different sites and have only been finding bushings for suspension only.
rocketkart
Active member
heres you a set of tires and rims.i know there not non split rims like you want but thay work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-GO-KART-W...ies&hash=item35ce159d6c&vxp=mtr#ht_2878wt_880
I'm more then likely going to just go with split rims again. Kinda don't mind if I gotta put a tube in them or not. Honestly rather use a tube then have to replace or patch tires.
But in project world today.
I'm waiting on the new tie rods/ends and the spindle bushing kit for the steering to arrive in the mail hopefully they will show up today. I'm going to leave the steering wheel as it sits right now even though it does have the bend in the shaft we've managed to straighten it out alittle.
We've also sprayed the underside of the frame with a rubberized paint to help project against rust. I've also decided on a metallic red frame with a black rollcage.
OzFab
Well-known member
Oooh, that sounds interesting...
We were going to use a red with metal flakes but we figure that would look gaudy as hell. I myself would rather do the kart a bright neon green. But they all hit me for it.
So yeah metallic red and black.
I was given a set of 18x9.50-8 carlisle tires and we seem to have run into abit of a issue.
We were looking at using them for the go-kart if we can(Good tread left so why not) problem is the rear sprocket doesn't have the length to reach to the other side of the tire so we can bolt it up.
It looks like if we used spaces we could make it work but I'd rather not use spacers if I can avoid it. Is there a way to make the tires work?
OzFab
Well-known member
Can you try that again, I'm not sure I got that... 
GreyW00lf
Active member
Can you try that again, I'm not sure I got that...
me neither... and I agree with you Fabroman tis why I quoted you
Can you try that again, I'm not sure I got that...
This picture is the best I can do to show what I mean.
I know it has to do with the width of the rim itself. I'm just curious if there is any mods I can do that would make it so I can mount the tires on the go kart.
OzFab
Well-known member
I think I see what you mean, the sprocket is sitting too close to the rim, correct? If so, there's a number of methods:
1. What is the offset of the rims? Meaning, where is the rim centre in relation to the outer edges? Is it the same distance from the centre to bothe edges or is one larger than the other? If the rims are offset, you may be able to flip them...
2. Use a longer double flange hub or, if that's not possible due to axle length (or lack thereof)
3. Spacers between the hub & the sprocket. This is the least desirable way to go but, if there's no other option, just do it right! Don't stack washers on each bolt, use a solid plate with holes cut in the correct positions
1. What is the offset of the rims? Meaning, where is the rim centre in relation to the outer edges? Is it the same distance from the centre to bothe edges or is one larger than the other? If the rims are offset, you may be able to flip them...
2. Use a longer double flange hub or, if that's not possible due to axle length (or lack thereof)
3. Spacers between the hub & the sprocket. This is the least desirable way to go but, if there's no other option, just do it right! Don't stack washers on each bolt, use a solid plate with holes cut in the correct positions
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