Rescuing a Junk Go-Kart..As a Beginner

[Hellion]

Ok Hellion you can stop giving people bad advise now. He clearly does not have a Manco style brake. The reason that I can see the brake is not working is because you need to put a cable stop on the end of that cable so it has something to pull against. Right now the way it is when you press on the pedal you just pull the cable out.


Denny

Duh, dude that part is plainly obvious. He said he removed the cable stop in his first post.

 

[FrankFKA]

I have yet to get my hands on the penetrating oil, but I did remove the engine.

I feel like an easier fix would be to sort out the existing cable. The only problem is that the metal cable inside the black covering does not move when the pedal is pressed.. the cable seems to be stuck in the covering? How is that even possible?

I've attached a comparison of the throttle and brake cable areas.. the throttle works, so it is pretty clear what's wrong here.

Maybe it's better to replace the cable? What is this cable even called?


Also on a side note.. I broke a part of the clutch (or is it the clutch?). It's the little metal collar. There's a clear crack in the image i've attached.

Thanks and sorry for the questions.. new to all this

 

[OzFab]

Ok guys, keep it civil; if you have issues, sort it out privately, not in the open forum...

 

[Hellion]

Ahh, it's what I figured. The rust monster got to the cable and rusted it inside the sheath. Now they are 'one'. Water will naturally find its way through the sheath by wicking itself along the cable. Hopefully you can find the kart some dry storage.

Take that cable and chuck it. You can use throttle/brake cables meant for go karts or those meant for bicycles (much cheaper) (brake and derailleur cables).


Don't be sorry for the questions. The forum exists for that reason.

Also on a side note.. I broke a part of the clutch (or is it the clutch?). It's the little metal collar. There's a clear crack in the image i've attached.

It cracked over a stress area--the keyway in the engine shaft. New clutches can be had for under $20.

 

[DeathMachine]

I would try to get a 'go kart' cable for the brake. I have used bicycle cables in the past, and while they do work they usually require some 'adapting' and do no last as long. Bicycle cables are fine for the throttle in many cases though.

Either way- keep them dry and lube often.

 

[FrankFKA]

Thanks guys.
So I've found these:
http://www.bmikarts.com/Throttle-Cable-with-Swaged-Ball-54--56_p_1797.html
http://www.bmikarts.com/Bulk-Cable-Conduit_p_1830.html

Should fit with no problems... but how do I get the swaged ball out of the kart?

 

[chancer]

Cut the cable.
Also Call BMI to order by phone. That way you get 5.95 USPS flat rate shipping. The website automatically RAPES you on shipping.

 

[Hellion]

That ^ is some good intel there, my good friend. Very good indeed.

 

[chancer]

More good info:
IMI auctions sells clutches on ebay for like 17.35.
I have bought 4 they are good.
I call "MIKE" direct at 303 833 0491. That way he does not have to pay Ebay 8%
He honors the ebay price and the free shipping too.

But first we need to help you figure out exactly what clutch you need. 10 or 12 tooth.
and #35 or #40 chain.

 

[FrankFKA]

Thanks guys.
I'm from Canada, but I'll try to call in anyway!
Also thanks for the info regarding clutches.. my location might disrupt that intel as well but we'll see. This is a later concern as the engine does not even run!

Some updates on the kart:
- Got PB blaster, sprayed the wheel, sprayed it again countless times. It now wiggles around but does not come out. Should I hammer the crap out of it with a piece of wood to spread the impact?
- I can't get a spark plug wrench locally that will fit my spark plug.. go figure. Any ideas on how to remove it? I have a socket that will fit the plug, but the wrench itself does not have room to snap in as the spark plug protrudes too far.

 

[chancer]

There is a place on your Profile to fill in location. So we know if you are a Canadien or a Canadian.
Once I took a digging bar with a flat end.
I had a helper hold it against the inside of the wheel.
The long bar allows you to get against the wheel hub while it is still on the Kart
and I whacked it with a sledge hammer.
Rotate the wheel every other whack to remove it evenly.

I was surprised how tight the wheel was stuck on. But it did come off with this method.

 

[Hellion]

I agree with the advice of a wooden block to distribute the hammer blows. But as mentioned earlier, the end of the axle may be deformed or rusted too heavily to let the wheel slide over it. Rust gets pretty thick sometimes and is enough to keep parts like this together. Polish that area as much as you can with the aforementioned emery cloth or sandpaper. Even a bastard file will work.

- I can't get a spark plug wrench locally that will fit my spark plug.. go figure. Any ideas on how to remove it?

You can get a special deep spark plug socket. They usually have a rubber insert in the end to protect the porcelain. They have them for cars too. Doesn't everyone have one?

 

[mckutzy]

Ahh yes a fellow CANADIAN...... A local brother too......

There is a tool for the spark plug removeal, its a tube that you stick a screwdriver or the like and twist to remove it.
A lawn mower shop might have it cheap, I think Canadian tire also have them in the lawn mower section....
As for the clutch.... Princess has a couple of good ones... not going to spend $20-$30 however.. they are more than that.... but if you try to get one online it'll cost about the same with all the shipping/fees/ conversion.....

To get it off.... you might need a pickle fork to pry it off.
Any other questions ask here and or PM....

Welcome to the show....

 

[FrankFKA]

Alright so the wheel still isn't coming off. I'll try some other methods a bit later.
How do I get this swaged ball out?

 

[mckutzy]

Probably bend the hook open a bit, enough to release the ball...

 

[Hellion]

Give the cable some slack and tap it out from the side with a hammer and an appropriately sized punch.

 

[FrankFKA]

Okay so some updates..
I was never able to remove the wheel, but now that I think about it, I don't need to. I used penetrating oil on the chains and sanded off the rust on the brakes.
Also removed the swaged ball so if all goes well, I can swap a new one in and the brake system should work OK.

Now to the engine. I've attached some pictures. I believe the carb and fuel system is working as I can smell gasoline through the spark plug hole as I pull the starter.

The problem is that the spark plug doesn't spark. I bought a new sparkplug and still no spark. Now i'm thinking it's the coil or something else? The components are rusted to crap - would that affect anything?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[DeathMachine]

Probably it's either the points are being grounded by a kiil wire, or the flywheel key has sheared
I've seen some crappy coils and flywheels still make spark. Just need a gap between the coil and flywheel, a piece of paper folded 3 times is about right.

 

[chancer]

Clean up the Fly wheel with wire wheel. Rust does not give spark/

 

[Hellion]

...Just need a gap between the coil and flywheel, a piece of paper folded 3 times is about right.

Right on. In fact, it looks like there is zero air gap in those photos--as in, the coil has bottomed out on the flywheel.

The shop manual for these engine would list the proper air gap thickness... then use your feeler gauges to set it.

"Timing of Magnetron ignition is solely controlled by
the flywheel key on all Model Series except 230000,
240000 and 320000"

If the above applies, you must verify if your timing is correct by examining the flywheel key to be certain it is intact. This could also be a cause for your non-ignition.