Hey guys. I revenly replaced the green spring on my comet tc. I was unable to get all the pieces off the shaft, but I got enough off to put the spring in. I started with the two pieces perpendicular to each other, twisted a quarter turn and seated it. I saw this in a video, though that guy had it completely off. So, is this the right way and also should I be able to turn it and make it click by hand? Because it definitely wont.
Replacing torque converter spring.
- Thread starter solefate
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although it's much harder to do while the driven is still on a jackshaft, it can be done.
you removed the cam and reinstalled a new green spring; is that correct?)
you correctly seated the spring in the corresponding holes and then tightened the spring into the next valley (locking the fixed sheave still on the jackshaft) and only turning the moveable sheave by hand...
well you're okay unless I'm missing something... make it click?
what click?
Anyways... post a pic of your driven unit (let us see the spring)
that way we can most likely tell if everything's okay or not
'sid
you removed the cam and reinstalled a new green spring; is that correct?)
you correctly seated the spring in the corresponding holes and then tightened the spring into the next valley (locking the fixed sheave still on the jackshaft) and only turning the moveable sheave by hand...
well you're okay unless I'm missing something... make it click?
what click?
Anyways... post a pic of your driven unit (let us see the spring)
that way we can most likely tell if everything's okay or not
'sid
The Noose
New member
Yeah, I don't know what you mean with the "clicking" part. There isn't anything on the driven that clicks unto place.
It sounds like you did it right. As long as you preloaded the spring in the right direction it should be fine. I don't know if I understand what you are asking so forgive me if this isnt close:
the outermost sheeve needs to be able to rotate on the shaft. With it assembled, You should be able to rotate the outer sheeve counter clockwise. It shouldn't be easy and should spring back into place as soon as you let go, but it should move. If it doesnt, make sure your spring is preloaded in the correct direction and that everything is clean.
It sounds like you did it right. As long as you preloaded the spring in the right direction it should be fine. I don't know if I understand what you are asking so forgive me if this isnt close:
the outermost sheeve needs to be able to rotate on the shaft. With it assembled, You should be able to rotate the outer sheeve counter clockwise. It shouldn't be easy and should spring back into place as soon as you let go, but it should move. If it doesnt, make sure your spring is preloaded in the correct direction and that everything is clean.
careful here.. direction of preloading depends on mounting direction of the driven (inboard or outboard) series 20 and 40 typically mount inboard, series 30 exclusively outboard..
also, rotating the fixed sheave clockwise is the same as mounting the moveable counter clockwise...
So it's easier to think of it this way:
you need to TIGHTEN the spring (preload with the rotation of the coil, NOT against it)
since that'll always be true no matter which spring in what TC.
'sid
also, rotating the fixed sheave clockwise is the same as mounting the moveable counter clockwise...
So it's easier to think of it this way:
you need to TIGHTEN the spring (preload with the rotation of the coil, NOT against it)
since that'll always be true no matter which spring in what TC.
'sid
Something isn't right. Assuming the part closest to me in the fixed part, and the part with the buttons is the move able part, I cannot get it to move past any given set of buttons. Nor does it really spring back into place. That is the clicking that I meant, moving it past a set of buttons.
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since it's not preloaded yet.
first, remove the nut and the circlip of course;
next lock the fixed sheave in place (easiest by preventing the kart from moving, and having all chains and sprockets in place)
Now, rotate the moveable sheave clockwise, the cam will move out of the way and into the next valley, now push down the cam, and reinstall the circlip and nut.
'sid
first, remove the nut and the circlip of course;
next lock the fixed sheave in place (easiest by preventing the kart from moving, and having all chains and sprockets in place)
Now, rotate the moveable sheave clockwise, the cam will move out of the way and into the next valley, now push down the cam, and reinstall the circlip and nut.
'sid
much better now 
looks like it's properly preloaded.. does it snap into that exact position immediately after being released?
If so, you're good.
'sid
looks like it's properly preloaded.. does it snap into that exact position immediately after being released?
If so, you're good.
'sid
So something went very wrong. Everything worked as expected for the test run, but today it jerked all over the place from the beginning, ripped the spring right out of the preset middle hole and rubbed my belt a little raw. What did I do wrong? 
ouch..
Can't tell, the sheaves are a bit rusted (far more than what I'd like) but that doesn't rip the spring ..
the buttons look to be in good shape, circlip seems to be present
(although I can't tell if it's properly seated from that pic.. but I assumed so)
a bad gear ratio can fry the belt, but shouldn't be able to rip the spring out...
Hmm... the only thing I could think of is that your actual jackshaft locked up and stopped the driven at speed..
but I cannot image a reason for it to do so (a bearing generally doesn't fail that way)
Sorry solefate, but you have to take the whole assembly apart;
driver, driven, jackshaft and inspect everything (when in doubt, post pics)
unless someone has a better idea
'sid
Can't tell, the sheaves are a bit rusted (far more than what I'd like) but that doesn't rip the spring ..
the buttons look to be in good shape, circlip seems to be present
(although I can't tell if it's properly seated from that pic.. but I assumed so)
a bad gear ratio can fry the belt, but shouldn't be able to rip the spring out...
Hmm... the only thing I could think of is that your actual jackshaft locked up and stopped the driven at speed..
but I cannot image a reason for it to do so (a bearing generally doesn't fail that way)
Sorry solefate, but you have to take the whole assembly apart;
driver, driven, jackshaft and inspect everything (when in doubt, post pics)
unless someone has a better idea
'sid
Oh boyyy. Well one of my buttons is a bit chewed up now after what happened. Also, believe it or not everything is a lot less rusty than when I started. I also noticed that my pulleys are slighty offset. The driver pulley sticks out just a hair further than the driven. Not sure if that caused it or what. Also at the time I didn't think to look whether the clip came off or not. I was just angry. Seems like if it fell off the fixed part could have come off the shaft enough to let the spring out but I'll have to confirm that tomorrow.
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