Replacing JS Sprocket & Stuck Driven

[Eric1204]

So, finally received the new JS sprocket and had a little time to work on things. After wrestling the snap ring into submission I thought it was going to be smooth sailing. However, when attempting to remove the driven clutch, only half of it came off. Can get the other half to move. Is It just supposed to slide off? I've sprayed it with PB Blaster and I'm looking for other suggestions.

Here is a pic of what is still attached. Thanks.

Update 5:53----

Making progress - so the new JS sprocket is about 1.98mm narrower than the old. The spacers are about 3.2mm so my alignment is by about 1.2mm - will this be an issue?

Thanks!

 

[itsid]

well, you can always adjust the axle sprocket to remove the 1.2mm offset.
(or find a matching washer)

will it matter: YES!
every hair of offset, will eat away on the sprocket and the chain, and you'll have to replace both more regularly than without that offset.

Is it enough to derail? IDK, I doubt it'd be enough for any immediate problem (derailing, snapping etc)
but it's not good, and it can easily be fixed.

So, fix it

find a gear puller and use that to pull the sheave off;
IIRC someone (can't remember who ATM) deposited 50 bucks in a hardware store to "rent" one.. got his 50bucks back a little later not paying anything using it


'sid

 

[Eric1204]

Thanks, after letting the PB blaster work I was able to get the sheave off.

I swapped one of the spacers for the washer on the other side of the JS and it worked like a charm.

Need to shorten the new chain and put it back together.

Will definitely need to watch a vid on preloading the spring - not so sure about that step.

Was the driven into supposed to come off in two pieces like that?




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[itsid]

yes, the driven is a 'single' unit that slides onto a jackshaft (or off in your case )

preloading is simple actually, that's a series 30; so all you have to do is
insert the spring into it's recesses (pick 1-3 on the cam.. 1 for speed, 3 for torque, 2 for default)
then hold onto the cam and rotate the moveable sheave clockwise into the next valley of the cam;
push cam down, install circlip and you're done
do not forget the keys of course, otherwise you'll be doing that twice

'sid

 

[Eric1204]

So I've learned a couple things - I hate shortening chain and the HF Chain Breaker isn't worth the effort. The pin on the breaker pushes out the chain pin and the gets stuck in the link and requires much inappropriate language to extract the pin. It was significantly easier to grind the top of the pin with a dremel and drive it out with a punch.

Second, actually reading Itsid's directions again for loading the TC spring actually helps. Still required more inappropriate language to hold it and get the snap ring back on.



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[itsid]

Yes, preloading the spring is easier with an additional set of hands

But you did it

'sid